B&B November 2009
Montreal restaurant closings, openings and rumours
Normand Laprise and Thermador – Les Produits Locaux videoclips featuring the chef visiting local producers with simple recipes ideas to encourage the average cook to eat local.
http://www.thermadorrealfood.ca/index_fr.html
Cuisine Canada Cookbook Awards – The winners
The ten weirdest things to eat - Chicken knees, Australian grubs, wriggling lobster, blood tongue sausage and such.. A preview of Extreme Cuisine.
http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/travel/holiday_type/food_and_travel/article6906033.ece
Way to go Michelle! Montreal Pastry chef (Endless Banquet blog) is on a roll. Some interesting recipes for the holiday season (or anytime) too.
http://endlessbanquet.blogspot.com/2009/11/christmas-in-september.html
Alongside Michelle (Obama), Sam Kass might be making a difference - even if ‘he is just a cook’. That kind of criticism obviously really gets my back up, but whatever. It only makes me root for him more. He seems like more of a politico or an activist than a pure bred cook, which is probably better for the agenda. She brought the circus of chefs in for show too. Fun and games, all while getting the message across. Slowly, who knows, the govt.- big ag affiliation might weaken if she keeps it up.
A white house chef who wears two hats http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04kass.html
Someone’s in the kitchen with Michelle
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04iron.html
Good news – a real knife shop in Montreal! I remember fondling knives for hours in such a store in Vancouver a decade ago while my girlfriends stood by exasperated, eager to move on to shoes. Now, I can head over to Laurier on my own and spend as much time in blade heaven as I want..
Nancy Hinton
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B&B October 2009
‘Table aux Saveurs du Terroir’ certification (www.agricotours.qc.ca) doesn’t seem to mean much, if this restaurant (Atelier) claims it with shrimp (not Nordic), asparagus and mangoes on the menu. Especially at this time of year, when there is plenty of fine Quebec vegetables (and fruit too) on the market from the last harvests.. I hate to harsh on a restaurant I haven’t tried, it’s the ‘local washing’ that kills me. Apparently only five restaurants have this certification in Montreal, whereas most (as in dozens, if not hundreds) on the high end are way more dedicated to local ingredients than this obviously demands. Marketing can never replace soul or quality. Why am I not surprised by this poor review. Desserts made by Saputo says it all. http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/latelier/
A Greener Halloween.. If you’re going to partake in the silliness of Halloween, at least consider greening it up a notch. http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/10/23/green-tip-of-the-week-green-hallowe-en.aspx
Getting to know your meat – butchery classes in vogue
It’s not like everyone needs to get down and dirty and learn butchering, but being aware of how meat (and food in general) appears on the plate makes anyone a more thoughtful and appreciative eater. Valueing real food, opting out of the industrial system, putting some work or attention into your meal ends up being just a wee bit better for the animals, for the planet, and most absolutely for the diner.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html
Raising prices on a whim Yes, sometimes restaurants take advantage of some hype, especially when run by business people. But often, what happens too, is that a restaurant that has genuinely been undercharging for too long comes into it’s own. So as soon as they get a chance to hike their prices (to put balance sheets in line) without a curfuffle, they do. Given the food cost, the staff wages, the fixed costs and everything else, a restauranteur knows how much he/she should charge, but in this economic climate for instance, he/she might easily opt for less, in hopes of better times ahead when the prices can be realigned.. When they do, it is unfair for people to scream. So many restaurants operate with slim to non existent profit margins, few can afford to play around. I just don’t think anyone should be too harsh on restaurants upping prices without a second thought. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/daniel_price_hike.php
Family run restaurants, the way of the past, and the future? Especially in difficult economic times, the formula can provide bigger bang for the buck for sure. Not only does passion and sincere hospitality usually shine through when the people with a personal stake are at the helm (although fatigue can show too), but the bottom line is that family costs less. A hands on owner is generally worth 3+ employees. If we were to pay ourselves the same salary we pay our employees (per hour), we would not be in business. And it’s hard to find employees that take the business to heart and see all the details, that will go the extra mile to do what needs to be done beyond their task list, tending to the odds and edds and surprises, be it in dealing with a finnicky customer or flood, to running out for ice or candles or unplugging a toilet, or pitching in at the dishpit, knowing that asking for a night off is out of the question. Not to mention the importance of striving for quality and efficiency in every move.. This kind of thoughtfulness, drive and attitude day in day out, comes naturally to business owners, but needs to be drilled into employees – and it is the key to a sucessful dining experience. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/oct/21/family-run-restaurants
Maybe Gourmet was ahead of it’s time, as opposed to lagging behind..
What Gourmet’s critics missed http://www.grist.org/article/2009-10-13-what-gourmet-magazine-critics-missed
Go Michelle go! Planting a garden at the whitehouse, promoting local food and healthy eating, talking food reform.., she’s off to a good start. When it comes to attacking the sugar in America’s soda diet, and the high salt-sugar-fat mix in industrial food in general, which is so readily marketed by big ag, she will be taking on big ag. Let’s hope she doesn’t shy away.
http://www.grist.org/article/is-michelle-obama-about-to-take-on-big-food
Another Ecoli scandal, a teacher paralyzed.. Sad and Scary yes. But hello - Why does anyone find it surprising that contamination arises with such INDUSTRIAL food, when there are so many steps between the meat (scraps) and the customer, all being handled by big companies and spotty reglementation. Ditch Cargyll and the like; buy your food from a traceable source, get your butcher to grind your meat or do it you yourself.
E. Coli Path Shows Flaws in Beef Inspection, by Michael Moss http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/health/04meat.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all
On smart farming: it’s possible to make a living farming organic. If more green thumbs and back to the land types could be inspired by this guy, that would be great. Because we do need more than 2% of the population growing our food if we want good food in the near future fossil fuel free world.
A farmer speaks: Richard Wiswall on the business of organic farming
http://www.grist.org/article/richard-wiswall-on-the-business-of-organic-farming/
Rules to eat by.. Michael Pollan says that culture has more to teach us than nutritionists and protect us from marketers, and is collecting tidbits of food advice for his new book.
A well written article as usual: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/11/magazine/11food-rules-t.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
His 20 favourite food rules so far (quite humorous) http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/10/11/magazine/20091011-foodrules.html
Gourmet Magazine folds, very sad. Can it be, really? This comes as a surprise to me, especially that they only seemed to have more ads than ever. I mostly loved Gourmet, except for the second last issue (the alphabet) which I found disappointing because it felt silly and empty, a string of random recipes and pictures. Nonetheless, I am a diehard fan of Ruth Reichl and was generally pleased with the direction she had taken the magazine; but not everyone agreed, it seems.
http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/gourmet_magazine_dunzo_after_68_years.php
There are still many disappointed anglo foodies out there who grew up on Gourmet.
http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/appreciation+Fond+farewell+Gourmet/2073814/story.html
Michelin stars in NYC for 2010 http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/10/michelin-announces-2010-new-york-city-restaurant-selections.html
B&B September 2009
Smoking Cooks! It appears that Smoking and Cooking careers correlate - Big surprise.
In Quebec, this is even more of a reality than this San Francisco crowd could imagine. Yes, it comes down to the kind of strung out person that is drawn to the business in the first place, and more importantly, yes, it’s the stress in the kitchen. Finally, yes, a cook is lucky to get a 10 minute break in a non-stop ten hour shift, so can you blame him/her for making it count and taking a drag? And I say humph to those who speak of deadened taste buds, because when you taste for a living, your taste buds become more attuned and acute, like with practicing anything, developed senses – talented ears for music, touch for the blind. Taste is a relative thing anyway; you adjust to the gustatory environment you have (if the background is smoke or garlic or whatever your mouth smells like, it gets cancelled out when you’re used to it; we all taste subjectively and against the backdrop of our lives.) Not to mention the fact that many cooks are super-tasters. Like a commentator said in response to this post below, I too would be overwhelmed by any more – it would make my life unbearable. I already taste and smell too much, more than any of my non smoking friends, by the way. So, I find this correlation funny, relevant, and not hurtful at all. Still, I think it’s silly to make it news, like people should be worrying about the fact that the people cooking their food might, probably smoke cigarettes (one butt in a 10 hour shift!). Big fucking deal. But it’s true.
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?&entry_id=48741
So, Love enhances the creative mind, and sex impedes it, favouring analytic processing instead. Which means sex is practical, where as love helps stimulate and expand the mind. I know that cooking has brought out the lover and artist in me. I think anything that keeps you in touch with your senses and nature, while forcing you to suspend logic and appreciate magic, or act like an animal from time to time encourages creative thinking, so of course love does the job. I would think that sex would fit in there too, but that doesn’t seem to be what these scientists are saying. Maybe because like in that Seinfeld episode, the physical part is just like taking out the garbage, it has to be taken care of to let you get on with the rest of your life.. Practical, not creative. Science meets Seinfeld, gotta love it.
http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=does-falling-in-love-make
Copy and Clone, a web video on industrial food by louis rigaud on Vimeo – clever and on the mark, worth watching..
http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/lelevage-a-lheure-des-biotechnologies/
A list of reasons why you should avoid farmed shrimp - Yes, those cheap ones from Asia that adorn just about every restaurant menu in Montreal. Luckily, we have our little wild Nordic shrimp to make up for it, that are widely available (for another month!).
http://www.chow.com/media/8226
Quebec cheese contest winners My fave Alfred comes out on top
http://www.fromagesdici.com/tout/prix_caseus.asp
Fish faux pas, Poor Obama with all he has on his plate.. But still, he is supposed to have the staff, watchdogs and resources to cover it all. How come the default is the most harmful and controversial of scenarios? F-ing big business and small print. http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/09/obama-fish-farm-policy
Is Julia passé? A gathering of Montreal food writers and cooks say no.
I agree. In Julia’s time, these French dishes were exotic; whereas now they are familiar, fancy restaurant-bistro fare from the past decades we know to be delicious. But now, we can buy the ladyfingers for the Charlotte and skip a step or two too. Green, modern cooks would probably be better off with Mastering the Art of French Cooking than with the zillions of other half-assed cookbooks out there today. And for seasoned cooks and foodies, it is tops for inspiration or some back-track grounding. To rediscover delicious classics like this gang did. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+Julia+pass%c3%a9/1964049/story.html
Buddha shaped pears, from the same guys with the square watermelons. For those of you way back who didn’t even believe my ‘true’ poire Williams story – look what is being done with the poor pears now.
http://www.boingboing.net/2009/09/04/pears-grown-in-the-s.html
B&B August 2009
Bits and Bites August 2009
From a ‘liver doctor/wine writer’ - the down- lo on alcohol and heart disease. Whatever.. it always comes down to the same thing: No silver bullet, nothing is black and white, everything in moderation including moderation. Not that any of us really thought that drinking (wine or otherwise) should have an unqualified green light.. Like with nutrition, we don’t need the scientists for that. But like this guy says, that doesn’t mean we need to stop imbibing and enjoying.
http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/23/FDF2196S5E.DTL
A panoply of interesting wine books hitting the shelves http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/08/6-new-wine-books-on-psychology-geography-snobbery-and-more.html
One Part Creativity: Zero Parts Recipe. Can just using ratios really teach me to be a better cook? by Jennifer Reese.. An insightful account on using and creating recipes, in response to Michael Rulhman’s book Ratio.
I love ratios and I hate recipes. Of course, a few basic ones are key, and a few other tried and true favourites are handy to have; cookbooks are always useful for inspiration and as back up for reference. But mostly, I think a general recipe-free approach makes for the most rewarding kind of cooking, and usually the best tasting food. And yes, even in pastry where apparently every gram matters. I have always considered a recipe but a guideline, relying more on taste and feel, coaching cooks and students to use their senses and heads, as opposed to blindly following recipes. I do admit that beginning cooks are best starting off by executing standard recipes (still without ever being a slave to them, always alert).. and with time (Yes, time! No short-cuts), instincts become more refined, and success is possible armed but with but a few ratios, the doors open for creativity and real fun. Recipes are over-rated, and strict recipes are stifling and boring. They take the magic out of cooking, and don’t account for the variability in ingredients, mood, time and place, or what’s in your garden or fridge. Set yourself free!http://www.slate.com/id/2219243/?obref=obinsite
The Trouble with Julie and Julia http://www.gourmet.com/food/2009/08/julie-julia-movie A critique of the hit movie that offers perspective.
Miso Massawippi - a local product worth trying: Organic, unpasteurized, gluten free, probiotic - most mportantly, super tasty. I like the Soya and Rice orange paste for soups, vinaigrettes. Available all over town in épicerie fines and health food stores, eg. Rachel Bery,Les Douceurs du Marché, Atwater market. www.alimentsmassawippi.com
A Slowfood event in Old Montreal featuring tastings, demonstrations and conferences with visiting chefs, guest speakers and artisans on a variety of subjects in the ‘bon, juste et propre’ vein. http://www.saveursettentations.com/33.html
Made to imbibe We’ve been enjoying the by products of fermentation for longer than we have been civilized - no wonder, go figure. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=the-origin-of-wine
On Canada’s Horsemeat Industry It’s good to know that we should be leery of quality and the source of horse meat since the industry is so poorly regulated. http://danamccauley.wordpress.com/2009/08/17/behind-the-barn-door/
What they brought to the table, by Frank Bruni A thoughtful piece about how people act at the table provides a lens on human nature – very amusing and spot on. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/19/dining/19note.html?ref=dining
Pasta, quicker than ever (1 minute!) We soak rice noodles and many other grains and legumes to shorten cooking time, even for better results, so why not wheat pasta too? I don’t know if I would bother though; I don’t mind waiting 7-8 minutes, allowing for time to make sauce and sides. Yes, it might be useful in a restaurant, but then you would be using all that precious fridge space for tubs of soaking noodles.. And what happens with what doesn’t get sold – I’m not sure 24hr soaked noodles are so appetizing. And surely flavour would be leached out, if using good pasta.. I’m all for improvements in the kitchen, but not so much into complicating life for nothing. http://ideasinfood.typepad.com/ideas_in_food/2009/08/one-minute-pasta.html
Corn plastic, in case you’re wondering what it is and what to do with it.. You do just throw it in the garbage, but I think it was supposed to be slightly more bio-degradable than conventional plastic. Obviously, it is not something to encourage with Cargill and GMO petroleum corn behind it; best to RRR (Reduce, Re-use, Recycle). http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-12-ask-umbra-truth-corn-plastic
Debunking the meat-climate change myth – a farmer speaks out. It is not meat eating per say that is bad for the environment, but the industrial way of raising meat that is the culprit – the fossil fuel based grain diet. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-07-debunking-meat-climate-change-myth/
Ten links to help you know more about your food, compiled by the Culinate team.
http://www.culinate.com/articles/features/sustainable_food_resouces_online
Union Square Café - still as popular, just not with the critics. This was one of my first restaurant cookbooks and my first NYC dining experience, so even if much time has gone by, I have a soft spot for the place. I think Danny Meyer and co. were sharp, visionary and inspiring with their Mediterranean mix of upscale and comfort food, choosing local ingredients and friendly over uppity service, quite novel at the time. There is something to be said for that, and for longevity.. Even if I know the food isn’t top notch by today’s standards, I don’t mind seeing it voted ‘most popular’ year after year. But I also know that trying to please all the customers all the time works against consistent quality; you have to have rules and systems and focus to maintain quality, especially when booked to the hilt every night. But maybe the bulk of their customers are happy with this approach, preferring the jovial atmosphere over fine tuned food and service. All the best to them.
http://events.nytimes.com/2009/08/05/dining/reviews/05rest.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
Now a Pyramid shaped watermelon, after the heart shaped one and the square.. The Japanese are just crazy. http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20090718p2a00m0na017000c.html
B&B July 2009
Bits and Bites July 2009
Urban agriculture and the bio-top system
http://www.urbainculteurs.org/Les_bacs_Biotop_files/Mode%20d%20emploi%20Biotop%20web.pdf
Papilles et Molecules, François Chartier's new book on food and wine pairing is out in stores. By breaking it down to the chemical components in foods and wines, and finding matches there, marriages many of us already know instinctively or from experience are explained (say that fennel, celery and apple are related and so go well together), that curry and maple syrup and oak go together, etc.. Occasionally, this approach turns upsurprises (rosemary and noble rot!) too.. Alhthough, hardly complete, and probably not so practical in the long run, this book is fun to browse, neat andinspiring. http://www.francoischartier.ca/
Chefs on drugs.. I would hardly agree that MOST chefs are on drugs, but neither would I argue with the notion that chefs are largely personality types prone to experimentation, indulgence, rash and risky behaviour, or some sort of self-medication.. And the high octane rush and pressure of the kitchen makes them even more that way.http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-21/the-addicts-in-the-kitchen/?cid=topic:mainpromo1
Taras Grescoe on factory salmon farming Grist underlines a few salient tidbits from his book, Bottomfeeder, providing some clarity given all the industry propaganda. Also a good reminder to read this book if you haven’t already.. Bottom line here is that farmed salmon is BAD. If it is 'salmon' without any 'wild or Pacific name next to it, that is what you are buying or ordering at the restaurant.http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-15-taras-grescoe-on-factory-salmon-farming/
Old news, but the worst is Chilean salmon which is often that generic, cheap salmon sold in supermarkets and restaurants here too.
http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-24-chilean-salmon-industry-plunges-pesticide-antibiotic-abyss/
Grant Achatz on Celebrity Chefdom and being in the kitchen or not
Do you expect the owner of a construction company to be hammering in the last nail? Most people don’t realize what goes into a meal, this kind of enterprise his kind of restaurant can be, maybe because it’s just food. But if the chef is doing the cooking himself, he is not with customers, he is not on TV, he does not have the time to be a celebrity. I have a hard time just greeting the customers once in a night because I am working, and I don’t have a huge operation and brigade. In any kind of restaurant business though, the chef has to be present, but often it's behind the scene, in the running of things, and not every night or on the line, and with a solid team working for/with him or her, for it to really work and be authentic. It can still work and even be fabulous, but then it’s slightly different, not necessarily like said chef is there cooking. Most customers don’t know the difference anyway, and would be happier to see the chef than to just eat really good food. The celebrity chef phenomenon.
http://food.theatlantic.com/back-of-the-house/should-chefs-get-out-of-the-kitchen-1.php
Osaka – the world’s greatest food city! Ok, this makes me want to fly to Osaka ASAP, and travel in general.. Even if I haven’t been, I can’t help but agree that we should be hearing about all these great eats outside Europe and NYC more in the top lists and foodie reports - how refreshing. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/jul/13/osaka-japan-best-food-city
An interview with Mark Bittman, NYTimes columnist and cookbook author, among other things.. A likeable guy with a cool job, the kind that doesn’t pop into thin air, but is built.. http://www.splicetoday.com/consume/interview-mark-bittman
So now it’s Young Butchers that are Hot, says the NYTimes: “Young Idols with Cleavers Rule the Stage” http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08butch.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss
I say praise the lord for the rise of a craft that was being lost to big industry slaughterhouses, a return to butchering our own meat (or seeing it butchered retail) from a small local farm. Any chef seeking out quality local producers pretty much has to do it him/herself, which I’m quite used to, but I’m all about letting someone else do it – with swifter technique, in a properly refrigerated workspace. I guess I’m old enough too to not care if I’m the bloodiest or fastest or coolest, because I can hack up a carcass with precision, in record speed. I can’t help but think that these hot butchers spring from the subset of all kitchens’ most macho, most brutish elements, those that we love dearly of course; it’s a certain talent and personality type. I would like to keep one in my own kitchen, but if not, at least I know they’re out there in swelling numbers.. So, let them have their own cult following and glam space. Average consumers might wake up to real food with them around, and we cooks might actually be more productive in the kitchen with the option of outsourcing to one of our own, so all with a clean conscience, all for a better product in peace.
Blowing up Brie cheese with nitrous oxide.. Looks nasty but probably tastes great. If you’re curious, the Ideas in Food team shares their foam recipe, which is made stable by exploiting the synergy of agar and Locust bean gum.
http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-07/blowing-cheese-nitrous-oxide
National Geographic report, ‘The End of Plenty’ - A good read, long and heavy, but important. I can’t believe that Mosanto and the like are still considered a part of the solution. Then again, going back to old school methods would probably mean that more people will die sooner, but probably not more than in the long run, along with the planet. Even if it’s hypocritical to say from my privileged spot in the world, I believe in sustainable at all costs. I do my little bit and I realize it’s nothing in the big picture, mostly because very few in the western world are doing much, but I still believe in it, practical or not. And I wish more of us were worrying about this at night. http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/06/cheap-food/bourne-text
The urban farmer - A pretty neat bio. Not to mention a good cause and a motto to live by, To do the best you can. But eating better is even simpler thanks to people like him. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/05/magazine/05allen-t.html?pagewanted=4&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss
Mapping the Mario Batali Genome.. If they are doing this for other achievers and interesting people, then why not chefs? But still, I think it’s silly - maybe the chef celebrity thing is overblown. He’s just a good cook who likes his orange crocs. http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/07/mapping-the-batali-genome.html
Canadian Chefs serve seal, with a side of contraversy: A (fluffy) New York Times article about seal on Montreal menus. Of course, seal is not on many Montreal menus, but in Northern Quebec and Canada, it is part of the culinary heritage and way of life. There isn’t much controversy either, except in Europe. If Michaelle Jean hadn’t taken that offered bite of seal heart, she would have indeed caused even more of a stir (assuming the same media coverage), insulting her hosts, and a nation she represents. Anyway, like with the foie gras issue, there are bigger fish to fry - people should worry more about their battery chicken and farmed shrimp and ‘unfair trade’ coffee.. The seal trade is miniscule in comparison, not to mention the cultural, historical roots, and that it is highly managed, and not so unethical in the big picture. In any case, I wouldn’t worry too much about seal taking off as the next big thing.. Unlike foie gras, seal isn’t that tasty to most people who didn’t grow up on it (say those freaks from the lower north shore, NFLD or up north) – think: beef tenderloin meets calf’s liver with a fishy taste. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/01/dining/01seal.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
B&B June 2009
Bits and Bites June 2009
Why don't the French cook like they used to? Of course, they do. But no thanks to Michelin.
http://www.slate.com/id/2221245/
Chefs are interviewed for The Globe and Mail’s series of articles on salt, including yours truly, and funnily, we all pretty much reiterated the same thing - that we wouldn’t want to give up salt, but that there are many other ways to punch up flavour too. Of course, none of this would even be an issue if people stayed clear of processed and packaged foods and cooked real food.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/special-reports/hard-to-shake/dont-pass-the-salt/article1194031/
Normand Laprise of Toqué is awarded the Order of Quebec (CHEVALIER DE L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU QUÉBEC), for his contribution to Quebec cuisine. http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Nouvelles.php
CSF start-up in Boston – A CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program, but for fish, Lucky them! Buying fish straight from local fishermen according to their catch, so fresh as can be, no waste, more money for the fishermen, better for everybody – what a novel concept! I wish my Newfie Grandfather were around to read this. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124421534407589317.html
New farmer’s market on Duluth, including some urban farmers http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/06/16/new-farmer-s-market-opens-in-montreal-s-plateau-district.aspx
Highwood Crossing cold-pressed canola oil - Canada’s extra virgin olive oil.. We used this oil when I was at l’Eau à la Bouche years ago, I am a big fan. It’s really unbelievably good. Orphée’s is good too, but not as flavourful. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/organic-cold-pressed-canola-oil-competes-for-the-spotlight-with-gold-standard-olive-oil/article1175917/
Would you like some GMO’s in your coffee? In case you didn’t know Monsanto was all over sugar beets too. http://www.grist.org/article/would-you-like-some-gmos-in-your-coffee/
Wreaking Haddock: How to eat sustainable fish, a video on Grist
http://www.grist.org/article/2009-ask-umbras-video-advice-on-sustainable
Big Food under Fire - Yay. But it will take more than a little Obama mania to pull them down. Thankfully, Mother Nature, more powerful than all, will bring them (and us) to our senses soon enough! http://www.slate.com/id/2219686/pagenum/all/#p2
Chefs’ Memoirs - all now, so «Anthony Bourdain»
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook3-2009jun03,0,4852028.story
B&B May 2009
Bits and Bites May 2009
Montreal Chefs changing places: Eric Gonzalez to replace Marc André Jetté and Patrice Demers at Laloux.. http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/chaises-musicales/
The Case for Working with Your Hands – A terrific article about the trades, what craft does for the soul and for society.. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=crawford%20magazine%20soulcraft&st=cse
What the Financial System can teach us about food, an essay by Tom Philpott http://www.grist.org/article/2009-05-22-financial-collapse-food/
Canada’s supermarkets get failing grade on fish - No kidding, it’s atrocious. As consumers, we can help change that by speaking up and demanding information. http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/05/22/not-a-lot-of-fish-in-the-seas.aspx
Lifting the veil on industrial food: Food Inc the movie
http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/food-inc.html
Watch the trailer http://www.foodincmovie.com/
ElBulli extends opening hours http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/05/chaos-at-el-bulli
Michael Pollan on the Colbert Report http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/michael-pollan-trades-barbs-with-stephen-colbert.html
New Montreal Gazette Food blog http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/shopchopeat/default.aspx
Shitting on Alice Waters. I don’t get it. No, actually, I do get it, and I think it’s cheap, and shameful. With all she’s done, and what she stands for. I think the people dissing her mostly can’t stand feeling the guilt behind their own food choices. Yes, it doessuck to have be responsible and care about people and the planet when feeding ourselves; luckily, the reward is there in taste and healthfulness. When she celebrates an artisanal product, a lettuce or date producer, and bangs agribusiness, it wakes people up to these issues. If only to make them think about where their food comes from and make better choices, to lead people towards eating locally and sustainably, to teach kids about gardening and eating better.. How can that be bad? Who cares how many silk scarves she has? And yes, it is possible to not prioritize the checks and balances of real life, and not be an elitist. It’s called being an idealist. Or an artist or a humanist or an activist - when ideas and principles outweigh material concerns. Sure, she might be rich now, but she wasn’t for most of her life, and this is not her driving force. It is principles and down to earth passion. We need more people like her in every domain of society. You can alwayshire peeps to keep the books. There are too many people manning the books and not enough brains focused on the big picture these days – that’s our problem. Industrial agriculture, a polluted environment, sick food and obese and unhappy people, hmmph. That’s what she’s fighting. I commend her for not giving up in face of all us naysayers and lazy asses.
http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/05/war-on-alice-waters
http://www.eatmedaily.com/2009/05/yet-again-the-old-media-defends-alice-waters/
2009 James Beard Food Media and Journalism awards – the winners
Saving the Tamworth Pig by eating it http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831
B&B April 2009
Bits and Bites April 2009
Protecting the bagel and other national treasures: http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/Protecting+bagel+other+national+treasures/1543689/story.html Not only to protect and promote our treasures, we absolutely need to push for more meaningful labelling in general, to favour truth over sly marketing. Mapleleaf should not be allowed to sell a pseudo product as Proscuitto. Stores should not be allowed to sell meat or fish or anything without fully disclosing where it comes from. It's so frustrating dealing with the lack of information out there when trying to make good choices. Meanwhile, shoppers who don't ask questions are being misled, supporting shoddy factory farms or slave picked tomatoes without knowing it.
Swine flu outbreak may be linked to Smithfield factory farms - surprise, surprise. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-04-25-swine-flu-smithfield
Compost collection available in Montreal!!
Sea choice sushi guide -restaurants in Vancouver and Halifax get serious
World’s 50 Best Restaurants, And a Reminder that haute cuisine matters.
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/apr/21/restaurants-chefs-recession
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/apr/21/50-best-restaurants
Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) focuses on terroir Dropping the winemaking and marketing tricks, not to mention many of his popular labels, he is dedicating himself to making original wine, with no irrigation, old-style.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/22pour.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
Le 1608 – A cheese from the Charlevoix made in the Beaufort style from the heritage Canadienne breed of cattle http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832
Food.com - a promising new recipe search tool ? http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/04/a-new-player-in-recipe-search.html
Susan Semenak writes about maple syrup and chefs who use it (like me!)
http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/drip+anything/1497904/story.html
More Extreme Bacon http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/04/extreme-bacon-i.html?mbid=rss_epilog Every day there seems to be another bacon blog, or new"bacon explosion" type recipe riding the food waves. Could bacon possibly jump the shark? No matter how much I love it, even I am getting sick of reading and talking about it. Like Leonard Cohen said about his song, Hallelujah; no matter how fabulous, it may be time for a moratorium, not at home, but in the media at least.
Great Depression Cooking with Clara: http://greatdepressioncooking.com/Depression_Cooking/
Refreshing. Important. Intriguing. This woman in her nineties shares recipes and anecdotes from the era in a series of cooking videos, telling it like it was.You can hear heron Q, the Wednesday April 15th podacast: http://www.cbc.ca/podcasting/pastpodcasts.html?42#ref42
Doi Chaang, an ultra premium coffee from Northern Thailand, is a sun-dried cousin of Kopi Luak, the
Indonesian coffee made famous for the beans being digested by cats.
http://gremolata.com/Articles/597-Greenest-Coffee-In-The-World.aspx
Harold McGee always has something smart to say. This time, it’s about yogourt.
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/15/dining/15curi.html?_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss
Ratio, Michael Rulman’s new book: The simple codes behind the craft of every day cooking http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/04/ratio-the-simpl.html
What a useful book this promises to be! I’ve always liked to think this way (because I hate recipes), constantly trying to figure the underlying principles out myself. Here, some of them will be spelled out - cool.
Bluefin tuna fishery collapse within 3 years
On a related topic, there is a new book out on the sorry state of our oceans:
Sea Sick, The Global Ocean in Crisis, by Alanna Mitchell
http://www.mcclelland.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780771061165
Focused on Fish, “Bottomfeeder” by our own Taras Grescoe is a compelling (and alarming) read, offering a good overview of the situation. If you haven’t read it, please pick it up. http://www.tarasgrescoe.com/
Sadly, it is really difficult to find sustainable fish options in Montreal restaurants. Besides the over-fished wild species still featured on menus of our best restaurants, the vast quantities of cheap farmed salmon and shrimp shamelessly been gobbled down daily in bistros and chain restaurants is even more horrifying. Such environmentally devastating enterprises should be taxed out of business. Chefs should take a stand and be leaders, but if diners showed they cared more, restauranteurs would be more inclined to follow. When will we wake up? I guess it takes environmental disasters and fisheries collapsing.
B&B March 2009
Bits and Bites March 2009
Adam Leith Gollner visits California Pinot noir for a party
http://gremolata.com/Articles/566-California-Bacchanalia-Inside-The-World-of-Pinot-Noir.aspx
Let’s hope the white house garden is more than symbolic. A food policy that favours agribusiness less and sustainable, organic farmers as well as farmers’ markets would only go hand in hand with Obama’s focus on health and nutrition, as well as the environment. ‘Could a food revolution be in season?’ http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/22/business/22food.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss
Good cooks for hire, finally
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/18/dining/18cooks.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&ref=dining
Improving the kitchenaid paddle – yes!
http://www.sideswipeblade.com/index.html
The FAT DUCK reopens
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/mar/11/fat-duck-reopen
Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack Opening this season..
http://www.cabaneasucreaupieddecochon.com/index_e.html
On the future of food, ideas for a sustainable system: eating less meat and dairy is a must, vertical farms are an idea. Michael Pollan says it is Gov’t subsidies in the right places and more farmer’s markets that we need.
B&B February 2009
Bits and bites February 2009
Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck closed due to health scare that appears to be no fault of his own, still a mystery.. What a nightmare, poor guy.
Montréal en Lumière festival reviews
http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/index.html
An inspiring interview with Gail Simmons, a little Canadian girl who made it big in the food world http://gremolata.com/Articles/534-Gail-Simmons-Rise-to-The-Top.aspx
Truffe – the movie, now out on DVD: I was psyched, a Québec movie with truffles as a main part of the plot (you see, with global warming, truffles start sprouting up all over the place and people are topping their poutines with them), I was ready to LOVE it, and I tried. But even with Roy Dupuis, I found it hard to love; in fact I spent the whole time waiting and trying to ‘get it’. I suspect there a lot of subtext here, playing with metaphors, or maybe they’re just having an all out stupid time, not sure. François kind of liked it. http://www.radio-canada.ca/arts-spectacles/cinema/2008/08/21/001-truffe_sortie.asp?ref=rss
A much more promising MUSHROOM MOVIE, ‘Know Your Mushrooms’,
Coming to Cinema du Parc in March.. http://www.cinemaduparc.com/english/prochainemente.php?id=know#top
Scotch and coffee tasting at Lenoir Lacroix Thursday 5à7
http://www.lenoirlacroix.ca/degustarium.html
New Restaurants to check out:
Mas cuisine in Verdun Chef Michel Ross 51..., http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?article=63011§ion=21
Greasy Spoon on Laurier, http://www.voir.ca/error/error.htm?aspxerrorpath=/publishing/article.aspx
Monsieur B. (old Montée) 371 Villeneuve E. (corner Drolet), 51..., http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1§ion=21&article=62668
Macaroni Bar 4448 St-Laurent, 51..., http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Dining+Macaroni+full+boil/1312491/story.html
Barroco in Old Montreal, I’ve heard good things, especially from the young set.. http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1§ion=21&article=63130
Contempory art meets gastronomy at the Jolifou Recession or not, cool things are happening in Montreal.. (this event Feb. 24,25)
http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1§ion=21&article=63010
Nadia G. book launch From the online hit cooking show Bitchinkitchen.tv, Nadia G., an Italian Montrealer with a following, has published a book, a very different one at that, subtitled ‘Rock your kitchen and let the boys clean up’. Definitely sassy and fun with some solid food tips and recipes (stashed behind the hilarious pictures, capsules and sexy photos). I really didn’t expect to like this book, but I did, not because I learnt anything about food, which could be besides the point, but I bet a lot of the young bitchin’ set would. If the kids are being nudged towards organic food and real cooking with a bit of witty rebel-sexy edge and silliness, than cool. We can all use a dose of it anyway.
Menus by Epynord – for restauranteurs and sommeliers, sharp options, take your pick.. http://www.menusderestaurant.com/
Garlic – the ultra anti-oxidant – that is real garlic, not supplements
http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/02/politics-of-the-plate-health-properties-of-garlic
The next ‘it’ ingredient – Black Garlic http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/02/24/AR2009022400755.html
Everything Chocolate:
http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/c/chocolate/index.html
Top twelve aphrodisiac foods for Valentine’s.. Whether their powers are scientifically proven or not (hardly the point), folklore suggests they can work for you..
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/holidays/valentinesday/aphrodisiacs?mbid=e021009
Cuizine, The Journal of Canadian food cultures – our very own Canadian academic food journal on line, very cool. I remember attending a conference hosted by McGill and the McCord Museum years ago and listening to all these fascinating people presenting their theses and food related studies in English or in French and having the time of my life. I was floored that all this research and dialogue was going on in a separate world, parallel to mine as a chef. Now I am happy to know I have access to some of it..
http://www.erudit.org/revue/cuizine/2008/v1/n1/index.html
Rethinking allergy paranoia http://www.chow.com/media/7136
Vancouver is looking awfully good
Daniel Boulud’s Lumière
Jean George Vongrichten’s Market
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090204.wljeangeorges04/BNStory/lifeFoodWine
How Lobster turns from blue to red when cooked - has possible medical applications http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/03/science/03qna.html?ref=dining
French idioms relating to food: ‘Mi-figue, mi-raisin’, ‘s’occuper de ses oignons’ and etc.. Love em..
http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/cat_french_idioms.php
Salon HRI restaurant show in Montreal Feb 8.-10. at Place Bonaventure
Montreal Highlights Festival: all kinds of events and culinary delights for all budgets, with Paris as the focal city, from February 19th to March 1st.
The guests: http://www.montrealhighlights.com/volets/table/invites_en.aspx
The events: http://www.montrealhighlights.com/volets/liste_eve_en.aspx?volet=table
Poor Restauranteurs, Lucky diners (in NYC): ‘When Restaurants stop playing hard to get’
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/04/dining/04note.html?pagewanted=3&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss
Customers here in Montreal already have a good deal..
Fresh Boxes I’m not a such a gadget person, but this looks like a good idea.. For those fragile items and pastry type things you can’t put sous-vide but aren’t made à la minute, sometimes necessarily a day or two in advance, to keep them fresher, longer ..
B&B January 2009
Bits and Bites January 2009
Food and Think, A Heaping Helping of Food Science and Culture: A new food blog from Smithsonian with topics like the archaeology of alcohol consumption in human history, tracing human evolution via stomach ulcer bacteria and the nomenclature of fish.. Very cool. http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/
Playing with aromas as ingredients: trendy chefs turn perfumists http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/01/madrid-fusion-power-of-scent
Eat less, live longer, remember more Although I’m not too sure I would want to live longer and remember everything if I was starving.. http://www.sciam.com/podcast/episode.cfm?id=eat-less-remember-more-09-01-27
Agave nectar, the sweetener of the moment http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-01/agave-nectar-sweetener-any-occasion
Marion Nestle’s Fight for food safety No wonder she is wary; after writing so many books on food issues, and inspiring so many others, when as she says, we know what to do, we have the solutions, and still so little change.. http://gremolata.com/Articles/487-Marion-Nestles-Fight-For-Food-safety.aspx
Mark Bittman’s new book, ‘Food Matters’, a guide to conscious eating
Some excerpts: On the oil dependence of cattle farming, "A typical family-of-four steak dinner is the rough equivalent, energy-wise, of driving around in a sport-utility vehicle for three hours while leaving all the lights on at home."
On the advantage of eating plants, "It takes 2.2 calories of fossil fuel to yield one calorie of food energy from corn; that same calorie of food energy from beef requires you to burn 40 calories of fossil fuel."
On the virtue of embracing a bit of hunger, "The three things people are most neurotic about are food, sex and sleep. Very few people, every time they want to have sex, go have sex. Almost no one goes to sleep every time they get tired. But people think 'I'm hungry' and they go get food right away."
Trying to recreate restaurant dishes at home: A journalist tests the recipes from three NYC restaurants and compares them to the real thing.. for the most unsurprising of results: Reminiscent but not quite as good, with out all the frills, and with a sink full of dishes. http://www.slate.com/id/2208787/
Trying to recreate restaurant dishes at home: A journalist tests the recipes from three NYC restaurants and compares them to the real thing.. for the most unsurprising of results: Reminiscent but not quite as good, with out all the frills, and with a sink full of dishes. http://www.slate.com/id/2208787/
David Suzuki’s Saving Green hot-list
http://www.davidsuzuki.org/NatureChallenge/newsletters/jan09_savinggreen/default.asp
And before the budget deadline, tell the government how important the environment is to you!
Made with crushed bugs. Why can’t they just say it like it is?
Beetle dye http://www.chow.com/media/7002
New FDA labelling laws http://www.cspinet.org/new/200901055.html
Explaining salmonella in peanut butter http://www.sciam.com/article.cfm?id=salmonella-poisoning-peanut-butter
Everyone wants to know what the president likes to eat, hoping for a piece of the action too..
‘Chowbama’ http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090114.wchowbama14/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/
Washington restaurants hope to make his dining out list http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/14/dining/14power.html
A blog devoted to the Obama foodscape http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/search/label/Cristeta%20Comerford
As this Gourmet article suggests, it would be nice that all this talk of change extended to the table. Especially that our food supply and eating habits are so intimately tied in with health issues, the environment, the economy and every citizen’s day to day, the president and the white house chef have the power to bring food issues mainstream, to bring real change..
http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/01/white-house-chef-wars
Top restaurants say ‘what recession?’ http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/01/top-restaurants.html
Meanwhile Spam (and co.) sales skyrocket
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090112.wllowbrow12/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/home
Saving a squirrel by eating one: British chefs and activists have made the North American gray squirrel a sought after delicacy. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/07/dining/07squirrel.html
Or how about a Raccoon? Another increasingly appealing choice for the times.. http://www.kansascity.com/living/food/story/977895.html
Looking back:
The best videos of 2008 at Serious Eats, notably the pig in boots
http://www.seriouseats.com/2008/12/the-year-that-was-on-serious-eats-videos.html
The best casual Montreal Restaurants of 2008: A whole list of new spots for cheap good eats – might turn in handy this year..
http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/informal+eats/1117276/story.html
Kitchen science: some good, useful basic reminders http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/06/science/06cook.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
Fat and booze: The latest best diet for women
http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/dec/28/health-and-well-being-health1
B&B December 2008
Bits and Bites December 2008
Montreal en Lumière schedule is out, tickets go on sale this Saturday
http://nouvelles.equipespectra.ca/blog/?p=389&langswitch_lang=en
On Vegetarianism vs. Big Bad Meat, and the mistake we made in ditching traditional foods. This is a terrific article by Gremolata’s Loretta .. is an important read.. Accumulating evidence that we have it all wrong when it comes to recent thinking about eating meat and animal fats, the healthiness of a vegetarian diet, and the ‘new’ industrial food that has replaced traditional foods… The more I read, live and trust common sense, the more it becomes obvious that we shoud have listened to our grandmothers all along, as Michael Pollan so poignantly pointed out in his Defense of Food. The bottom line, eating meat and fat is fine, even best, when the meat is naturally raised, as a part of a balanced diet big on real food and scarce on industrial refined sugars, starches and vegetable fats. http://www.gremolata.com/Articles/386-Im-A-Natural-Born-Killer.aspx
The GM EnviroPig - A pig with a mouse gene that makes its waste less of an environmental hazard, and other scary food issues..
http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2008/12/politics-of-the-plate-genetically-engineered-animals
Epicurious predicts top 10 food trends for 2009
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/12/epicurious-pred.html
Top ten food trends from Time
http://www.time.com/time/specials/2008/top10/article/0,30583,1855948_1864255_1864257,00.html
Cuisine du Quebec website is finally up and running with an impressive amount of content.. With the focus on Quebec, its products, artisans, chefs, a wide variety of recipes and food news, this comprehensive site fills a much needed gap on the Canadian culinary web. What is most refreshing is that it is information driven, not commercial.. http://www.cuisineduquebec.com/
B&B November 2008
Bits and Bites November 2008
Wild foods once a major part of Thanksgiving
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/26/opinhttp://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/26/opinion/26beahrs.html?partner=rss&emc=rss
Matteo resurfaces in Vancouver
Oregon truffles - sounds like they areworth trying
http://www.registerguard.com/csp/cms/sites/web/news/2667777-35/story.csp
Another top chef, Oliver Roellinger, turns in his Michelin stars to cook more natural food in a simpler setting at Le Coquillage – no wonder..
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/11/19/dining/19chef.html?_r=1&ref=dining
Susur opens in NYC
Gourmet party pre-opening – the food looks great
http://www.amateurgourmet.com/2008/11/gourmets_preope.html
Culinary sissies - No kidding! Slightly less so here with the francophone Quebecois, but still, this annoying trend seems to be getting worse all the time.. Not only do all these special requests complicate things in the kitchen, ultimately it’s the other customers who suffer (in delays due to scrambling, distracted chefs or in a simplified menu or increased pricing to make up for the extra work), which is all too bad when it’s unnecessary because it takes some of the fun out of eating for all parties. Then, there’s also the cry wolf phenomenon, which could be dangerous for the truly allergic if cooks start taking the many claims less seriously..
http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/11/a-nation-of-cul.html
Ginger Lore: As usual, the spice girl at Gremolata digs up some interesting tidbits on this beloved ancient rhizome.. Figging! Who would have thunk it? http://gremolata.com/Articles/391-Spice-Girl-Ginger-Up.aspx
Cuisine Canada Cookbook awards - The winners announced ON NOVEMBER 7, 2008, see below
An interview with Randall Grahms, the guy behind Bonny Doon, who is now making wines with Life Force http://gremolata.com/Articles/388-Randall-Grahms-Terroirism.aspx
EU relaxes rules on produce shapes and sizes, opening the door for 'imperfect' vegetables to market (Incredible that these laws existed, how about here? Something to look into.)http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/whats_fresh/index.html
And check out the wine bag for travelling oenophiles on the food section shopping lis
t, useful indeed.
http://www.bottlewise.com/buynow.asp
Patrick St-Vincent, a familiar name in the Montreal wine world (formerly of Bu), reemerges on the scene on the internet in wine capsules on the Rezin website – very funny, as in strange-funny more than haha funny. C'est à suivre, I guess..http://www.rezin.com/telerezin/
Spanish cured Hungarian mangalica (or woolly) pig, the next big thing to add to a foodie’s ‘to try’ list - coming to NA in 2009..
Tougher than Ramsay and Marco Pierre white combined
Meet the Chef Who Can Skin, Carve, and Fillet YOU http://www.chow.com/media/6669
The Chocolate show (Chocolatiers et cie) at the Palais des Congres Nov7-Nov9 www.salonpassionchocolat.com
Tricks for a crisper roast chicken Like Head & Shoulders shampoo, you’d think we’d have it all figured out by now, but no, there’s always a new and improved recipe for the perfect roast bird in every other food publication at this time of year.. This one is simple enough, maybe I’ll try it with guinea hen..
http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/detail.asp?docid=12318&Extcode=L8KN5BA00
A hen laying eggs in the backyard, a sheep to mow your lawn - like in the good old days.. With the trend toward local, fresh food from a traceable source, the idea of urban farming no longer seems so backward. We might have to get used to some barnyard smell in the city, but at least, it would be good to see our local abbatoirs back.. http://www.nationalpost.com/life/story.html?id=906894
Michael Pollan’s letter to the president, again, just in case you didn’t read it last month. Now that the president elect is a done deal, maybe Michael Pollan’s letter needs to be pulled out, in hopes that it will become a part of the ‘CHANGE’. This is a must read for all citizens and eaters, as it sums up the reality of our food system (in Canada too), all the problems and offers up solutions. And Andy Griffin (the Ladybug letter) reminds us of an important omission in his almost perfect piece, the farm workers on whom the food system absolutely depends but completely ignores. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/12/magazine/12policy-t.html?_r=2&ref=magazine&oref=slogin&oref=slogin
The Ladybug letter http://www.ladybugletter.com/
Cuisine Canada Cookbook awards - The winners announced ON NOVEMBER 7, 2008, see below
In the English Cookbook Category:
- Gold: Fresh: seasonal recipes made with local foods by John Bishop and Dennis Green (Douglas & McIntyre, Vancouver)
- Silver: Dish entertains: everyday simple to special occasions by Trish Magwood (HarperCollins Publishers Ltd., Toronto)
In the English Special Interest Category:
- Gold: Ultimate foods for ultimate health . . . and don’t forget the chocolate! by Liz Pearson and Mairlyn Smith (Whitecap Books Ltd., North Vancouver)
- Silver: The 100-mile diet: a year of local eating by Alisa Smith and J.R. MacKinnon (Random House Canada, Toronto)
English Canadian Food Culture Category:
- Gold: A year at Les Fougères by Charles Part and Jennifer Warren-Part (Chelsea Books, Chelsea, Quebec)
- Silver: Menus from an orchard table: celebrating the food and wine of the Okanagan by Heidi Noble (Whitecap Books Ltd., North Vancouver)
In the French Cookbook Category are:
- Gold: Stefano Faita, entre cuisine et quincaillerie by Stefano Faita (Editions du Trécarré -Groupe Librex, Montréal)
- Silver: Serge Bruyère: ses recettes originales et revisitées by Project Coordinator and Author Anne L. Desjardins, (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal)
French Special Interest Category:
- Gold: La chimie des desserts: tout comprendre pour mieux les réussir by Christina Blais and Ricardo (Les Éditions La Presse, Montréal)
- Silver: Les vins du nouveau monde, tome 1 by Jacques Orhon (Les Éditions de l’Homme, Montréal)
Cuisine Canada is a national alliance of Canadian culinary professionals who share a common desire to encourage the development, use and recognition of fine Canadian food and beverages. The University of Guelph has for more than 140 years contributed to Canadian cuisine in its programs in agriculture, food science, hospitality and tourism management and is the home of one of Canada’s best cookbook collections. For more information about the awards visit: http://www.cuisinecanada.ca/
Cuisine Canada Cookbook awards - The winners announced ON NOVEMBER 7, 2008, see below
B&B October 2008
Bits and Bites October 2008
Events to support our local artisanal cheesemakers (in face of the listeria scare and their subsequent losses):
-At the ITHQ on October 20, Slowfood Montreal presents the documentary ‘Ces fromages qu'on assassine’ on the plight of artisanal cheesemakers vs the agribusiness giants. At 6pm, there will be an artisanal cheese tasting, and after the film, a debate will be held with the cheesemaker from Le Gré des Champs, cheese shop owner, Yannick Achim, a food scientist and a representative from industry. For info on how to reserve, go to http://www.slowfoodquebec.com/index.htm#fromage
-In the Lanaudière, Stephane Morin, beer master and editor of Effervescence magazine, and Genviève Longère of the Relais Champêtre team up for a beer and cheese tasting menu, a 6 course meal featuring the region’s cheeses paired with beers from the Alchimiste. Saturday November 8, 2008, 18h30, Reservation only, 450-839-2754, 60$ including tax. To secure a place, mail your cheque to:
Relais Champêtre, 398 Grande-Ligne, Saint-Alexis-de-Montcalm, Québec J0K 1T0
The Lanaudois cheeses on the menu:
Chèvrerie Barrousse de Saint-Cuthbert
Fromagerie champêtre de Le Gardeur
Fromagerie Couland de Joliette
Fromagerie du Domaine féodal de Sainte-Geneviève-de-Berthier
Fromagerie du Champ à la Meule de Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes
La Suisse Normande de Saint-Roch-de-l’Achigan
Les Folies bergères de Saint-Cuthbert
-Lenoir Lacroix hosts premium coffee and cheese 5à7’s on Thursdays: visit www.lenoirlacroix.com
Sun food (was the past) and is the future; Michael Pollan makes the case for the shift from a fuel based food system, and is as convincing as ever; if only the president-elect and our politicians would listen up.
Farmer in Chief, By MICHAEL POLLAN: Dear Mr. President-Elect: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/12/magazine/12policy-t.html?_r=1&oref=slogin
Escoffier’s Peppers at The Wednesday Chef : a sweet and sour bell pepper condiment with raisins - a recipe worth trying, put the ketchup or chutney aside… http://www.thewednesdaychef.com/the_wednesday_chef/2008/10/auguste-escoffi.html
Rosemary – all about it at Gremolata I love the stuff, but for birth control, who knew? http://gremolata.com/Articles/342-Spice-Girl-Rosemary--Baby.aspx
Sausage art http://englishrussia.com/?p=2073
A Ferran Adria interview with Malcolm Joley of Gremolata: What a great dialogue – fascinating, he IS just fascinating. All the ElBulli hype (and backlash) aside, there is no denying he is a master, a king in the modern culinary world. What true creativity, what passion, what talent, what vision.. He never ceases to amaze me (and the rest of the world). Imagine a waiting list of 2 million people in a season. And he’s not opening another restaurant. http://www.gremolata.com/Articles/335-Ferran-Adria-Interview.aspx
5 à 7 Coffee and Cheese with Lenoir Lacroix October 9
Enjoy great coffee, farmstead cheese from Fromagerie la Station, explore thepairing idea,and show support for our local cheesemakers at the same time. For reservations and info: www.lenoirlacroix.com
The Canadian Chefs Congress – Read about it on Gremolata
Ivy Knight definitely makes us feel like we missed out on a great party, as chefs from across Canada met at Stadlander’s to share their dishes, dish and hang out, all while tackling the issues of the day with some more serious conference action on the side. Sounds like a great thing they got started, and something that the culinary world in Canada needs to unify forces, for fun if anything else..
http://gremolata.com/Articles/327-Canadian-Chefs-Congress.aspx
Mushroom Mega Operation – A Japanese corporation plans on making Maitake, hon shimejji and co. mainstream – the next portabellos! Which is all good and fine, I love all of ‘em, but cultivated mushrooms should never be confused with wild mushrooms, which could never come as cheap because they can’t be controlled and mass produced, and they have to be found, at just the right time. However, nowadays on menus everywhere, anything vaguely exotic (as in everything but button) is referred to as ‘wild’, so now there will be even more confusion as these ‘new and exotic’ mushrooms are called ‘wild’ and no one knows the difference.. Even if I wouldn’t mind having Maitake at the supermarket, I’m not sure it’s a good idea; this is still industrial food..
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook1-2008oct01,0,985392.story
Why Calories Taste Delicious
http://www.sciam.com/article.cfm?id=why-calories-are-delicious
The Last Supper uncoded : in Davinci’s fresco, the actual meal is thought to have been eels with orange
http://www.thefoodsection.com/appetizers/2008/09/the-last-supper.html
Another great ‘quotable’ thanks to the Food Section , Julia Moskin on Toasted Rice
B&B September 2008
Bits and Bites September 2008
Bottleshock the movie – a wino flick about the famous blind wine tasting in 76 that put California wines in the same league as the French .. Now playing at the AMC forum.
Food matters – a documentary about food to fight diseases such as cancer, heart disease and depression - nutritional tricks the pharmaceutical companies don’t want you to know about..
Playing at Cinema du Parc this week at 7:15pm, watch the trailer.
http://foodmatters.tv/trailer.html
6 Ways mushrooms can save the world: A Paul Stamets video – Take 20 minutes to get a glimpse of the power of mushrooms beyond being delicious to eat. No, apparently they can potentially save the world, from cleaning up soil to creating fuel.. Mysterious mushrooms never cease to amaze and inspire… http://www.ted.com/index.php/talks/paul_stamets_on_6_ways_mushrooms_can_save_the_world.html
Speaking of mushrooms: Our annual event begins October 17 at Les Jardins Sauvages 45min NE of Montreal, Fridays and Saturdays at 7pm, Sundays at 1pm for 3 weeks. 7 Courses, 20+ kinds of mushrooms from appetizer to desserts, 85$ BYOB. To reserve, call 450-588-5125. www.jardinssauvages.com
Disputing the 1500mile factoid (average distance from farm to plate)
http://www.slate.com/id/2200202/pagenum/all/#page_start – I find it interesting to know where that commonly stated figure comes from, and therein lies a useful reminder to be wary of the media, but still we shouldn’t allow such details to water down the value of eating locally..
For the same reasons mentioned in this article, (as well as the fact that I hate rules and absolutes, especially ones that want to take my olive oil and lemons away), I never liked the idea of artificial numbers, as in the ‘1500food mile cost’, nor all the ‘100mile food diet’ talk per say, even if I always and even more so now, stand by the locavore ideal. And of course, I credit the original 100mile food diet experiment in BC as valuable as an initial hook or wake-up call (in the late 90’s), mainly in that it alerted us to make us stop and think about where our food comes from and consider making more conscious, sustainable food choices, to pay attention to what we had in our own backyard. Even at the time, I was already cooking mostly from far within 100miles, but still the debate was no where close to being on the mainstream radar.. It was an exciting and energizing idea, but forget about the numbers. First of all, because nothing is black and white, or good or bad for us, or for the environment in the big picture. Of course, sometimes it makes more sense to buy something from afar (tropical fruit from a tropical climate where a developing country relies on it for example). Of course, it depends where you live, on what the foodstuff in question is, on your point of view. But no matter, most of the time, and common sense tells us this, it makes the most sense to buy local, for taste, freshness, flavour, community and traceability, if not for global warming or anything else..
Just what we need – a book on FAT and our misguided fear of it http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080917.wxlfat17/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20080917.wxlfat17&pageRequested=all&print=true
Things parents do wrong with food for their kids
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/15/health/healthspecial2/15eat.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
In defence of water Michael Ruhlman (and Mark Bittman) remind us of the importance of water in the kitchen (better than canned stock in a soup).. I know I have had a squeeze bottle of water by my stove side for years now.
http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/09/in-defense-of-w.html
La Banquise vs. Patati Patata Poutine taste-off by two New Yorkers
Wait, what do they know? http://www.seriouseats.com/2008/09/poutines-montreal-canada-la-banquise-patati-patata.html
My tops goes to that roadside casse-croute in the Quebec countryside called Patate something or other with dark crisp fries, ultra squeaky cheese and super savoury sauce brune– you know the one.
Foods to fight bad breath http://cbs3.com/health/bad.breath.foods.2.813226.html
The El Bulli experience described by a ‘food virgin’ More beautiful, moving and to the point, than any account by a food critic, professional or ‘foodie’..
Sex, Death, Dinner http://www.nymag.com/restaurants/features/49921
63 foods on a stick at the MN State Fair! An old primary school friend now living in Minnesota alerted me to this stick festival tradition, and although I have to say some of it sounds scary (and what’s a Hot Dago or a Pronto pup anyway?) But I do love the idea, how fun! Deep fried pickles on a stick or anyhow – yum. I’m quite sure that some things were never meant to be served on a stick though (cheesecake, spaghetti and meatballs!?), but hell, there’s no harm in trying. http://redravine.wordpress.com/2008/08/19/mn-state-fair-on-a-stick-happy-bday-mn/
In photos: http://www.seriouseats.com/2008/09/in-videos-foods-on-a-stick-at-minnesota-state-fair.html
Yup, I’m a shoemaker, and proud.
Are you a shoemaker? An anecdote on the cook vs. pastry chef difference..
http://www.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2008/09/are-you-a-shoemaker.html
No matter how precise you are though, if you’re dealing with real food (and not powders and etc) which is organic and variable, you have to tweak and fine tune for the best results taste wise.. Besides, it makes no sense to weigh out ¾ of an onion, or measure out 10 ml of lemon juice instead of seasoning to taste - it kills me to see students doing that.. I do appreciate the use of scales, but I personally don’t want my kitchen to ever resemble a lab.. I believe in using your head and all your senses with each recipe and dish, never relying on a routine recipe or grams.. which is probably why molecular gastronomy is appealing to me less and less.
Listeria, salmonella, food scare this, food scare that
Why is everyone so shocked that tainted food is a new (although not really new) reality? Hello, food is perishable. Real good food does not normally have a two month or year long shelf life. I am surprised more people don’t get more sick more often eating Maple leaf foods and etc.. Imagine how much denaturing of food, not to mention all the additives and noxious cleaners they have to use to pull this off. A few people dying is sad, but to me, no surprise, and if that’s the kind of wake up call it takes for government and people in general to pay attention to the importance of their food, than so be it. As long as we rely on mass produced food that is convenient and cheap, this will be a recurring nightmare. Like the guy at Gremolata in the first article below, this did not wreak havoc in my world, because apart from the odd takeout sandwich I buy on the fly, I know where all my food comes from, even my bacon is homemade. I buy meat and poultry from small producers I know, vegetables from even closer, cheeses from the source or from a reputable cheese purveyor who is in direct contact with the maker; we get other stuff from the farmers’ market, but again, everything is fresh, unprocessed and from a traceable source. I do it for taste mainly, because I value food more than most things like Ipods and Nikes and window dressings, but it turns out that for health and safety, not to mention less stress, it’s paying off.. The Slow food nation fest in the US , timed with Barak’s rise (new hope), with all these food scares in the news might converge to really bolster the already growing trend back to more wholesome food values. It would only be better for us, both eaters and farmers, and for the environment.
Of course, I could still get sick from an artisanal raw milk cheese, or get hit by a car if I leave the house, some risks are worth taking. And besides, if you’re healthy and eat a varied diet including a bit of dirt, chances are a little food poisoning won’t do you in..
Where's The Good Beef? by James Geneau at Gremolata http://gremolata.com/goodbeef.htm
What's in your sandwich? Listeria isn't the only risk http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/LAC.20080827.LMEAT27/TPStory/
Is Slow Food Finally Picking up Speed in the US ? Alice Waters says despite elitist reputation, Slow Food movement revving up in US. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/26378691/
Amy reports back from Slowfood Nation after a panel discussion with Michael Pollan, Dan Barber and co.. http://cookingwithamy.blogspot.com/2008/08/slow-food-nation-report-from-day-1.html
Gremolata’s report back from Slowfood Nation 08 http://gremolata.com/slowfoodnation01.htm
Recently added links : some newly discovered websites of interest:
Salon Culinaire : An Australian e-gullet style culinary community for professionals
-of interest, check out ‘read the latest debate’
http://www.salonculinaire.com/
Phaedrus Consulting Detective : Finder of lost recipes among other things..
http://www.hungrybrowser.com/phaedrus/archives.htm
Stéphane l’Écuyer’s recipe video blog www.stephanelecuyer.tv
If this is your kind of thing..
B&B August 2008
Bits and Bites August 2008
Merlove – a documentary celebrating Merlot in response to Sideways
Low Lobster prices show that natural and regional foods make even more sense in this economic climate..
http://www.slate.com/id/2196990/
North Korea creates high protein super noodle
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/asia-pacific/7578231.stm
Gourmet visits Kujjuack to sample seal meat with the Inuuit, with a surprisingly generous review.. Even if I approve of a meal of seal over factory chicken or beef, I think you need to grow up on the stuff in order to be able to appreciate its ‘fish meets liver’ taste and smell. http://www.gourmet.com/food/2008/08/seal-meat
Making the case for boxed wine: Drink outside the box
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/18/opinion/18colman.html?_r=1&hp&oref=slogin
Bill touched on this topic too last Saturday in the Gazoo:
http://www.canada.com/montrealgazette/wine/index.html
Compelling food videos
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/08/top-10-most-odd.html
So it wasn’t a rumour, Julia Child was indeed a spy
http://www.foxnews.com/story/0,2933,403443,00.html
Bacon martini, c’mon Once a hugely vocal bacon fan, (my favourite slogan being ‘when in doubt, add bacon’), even I am slowly getting tired of all the bacon talk now that it is so trendy - Maybe there is too much of a good thing after all.
http://herenb.canadaeast.com/food/article/383714
Look for us in the media:
The Chef’s Domain, a new TV show on Discovery Travel (CTV Travel +)– The product of 4 days of filming at la Table in spring, the show featuring me and François airs on Sunday, August 10th at 8pm! On Bell ExpressVu, its channel 527, on Videotron, its 145.
http://ctvmedia.ca/travelandescape/releases/release.asp?id=10506&yyyy=2008
http://www.travelandescape.ca/shows/showdetails.aspx?sid=9999
In the Montreal Gazette travel section on Saturday August 16: Short hops with David Johnston
http://www.canada.com/montrealgazette/travel/story.html?id=ba5a574c-b050-4e81-acc3-d933bc260e6d
And for those of you who missed us on l’Épicerie TV show (the reason we are happily working soo hard now), you can view it on line..
http://www.radio-canada.ca/actualite/v2/lepicerie/niveau2_liste87_200806.shtml
Pass the beaver ribs SVP : Quebec chefs would like to see wild game on menus
I’m all for it, but seeing the complex, messy situation with wild plants, in the lack of knowledge out there, how many idiots who are ready to exploit without any respect for nature, not to mention how out to lunch the government is, I have little faith in their enforcement of any such program.. Many of the plants they want to ban are not endangered at all if they are picked properly, but it is easier for the government to ban their consumption than educate and enforce. I think this is too bad, but I see the immensity of the undertaking, issuing permits, hiring inspectors. . However, maybe with game, it would be easier. It’s definitely something to look at. Afterall, it is a part of our heritage, and it’s a healthier, tastier, sounder source of protein than industrial feedlot beef or chicken.
Cool ideas – Harold McGee explains the ins and outs of ice and chilling – so very cool. Love his no-tech icecream, and of course, throwing salt into the mix makes for a more efficient ice bucket! And little did I know that that old contraversial discussion about hot liquids sometimes freezing faster was named the Mpemba effect; I was always skeptical; now I will have to look into that further..
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/06/dining/06curious.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
How values affect taste.. No surprise there – so many things affect our taste : mood, ambiance, mind set.. to name but a few.. But I think that values do too can only be a good thing..
http://scienceblogs.com/cortex/2008/07/good_news_for_vegans.php
An interesting essay on the potato by Andy Griffin (The Lady bug letter)
Check out this old menu – very cool.. To think that as a kid, I thought I invented the double decker peanut butter, jelly, cheese and lettuce sandwich.
http://cookedbooks.blogspot.com/2008/08/kitchen-cabinet-of-curiosities.html
Their following post for horseradish vodka sounds so appetizing and I’m not a girl for hard stuff – perfect for caesars too.
P.S. Thanks to the Endless banquet for leading me to this site.
Must see farming documentaries
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/08/four-must-see-f.html?mbid=rss_epilog
Alain Brumont at Auberge du Lac Morency in the Laurentians, with sommelier Guy Lelievre: a six course tasting menu featuring his fabulous wines from the southwest of France for 90$.. The wines: Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne, Gros Manseng-Sauvignon, Brumont 2007/ Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Château Montus, 2000/ Madiran, Château Bouscassé, 2002/ Vin de Pays des Côtes de Gascogne, Les Menhirs, 2003/ Madiran, Château Montus, 1996 (6 litres)/ Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Vendemiaire, Octobre, 2000 http://www.lacmorency.com/
Quebec to allow raw milk cheeses. After a long battle, the 60 day rule is being lifted, opening the way for the production of the good stuff (full flavour French style young raw milk cheeses).. Looks like the Quebec cheese scene will only get more interesting.
http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080731.wcheese01/BNStory/National/
Dog off the menu in Bejiing Intent on getting the Chinese to behave better by foreign standards, their Govt is banning dog on restaurant menus.. They seem more worried about offending the world with their spitting and eating and placating the animal rights activists than addressing real human rights issues – bizarro.
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/08/04/opinion/04dunlop.html?_r=1&ref=dining&oref=slogin
Food industry round up : The most stained cookbooks
All about Cilantro, aka Coriander I’m a lover, not a hater, but from experience, I’m not surprised by a ‘I hate coriander’ online club… However, I too believe that it is an aquired taste, not a ‘love it or hate it’ thing. Luckily, because it does enliven many a dish, and look how good it is for you too! http://gremolata.com/cilantro.htm
B&B July 2008
Bits and Bites July 2008
Quebec Capitale Gastronomique by Anne L. Desjardins (not Anne of L’Eau à la Bouche) – a cookbook to look for celebrating the chefs and producers in the region around Quebec city, leaders in our cuisine du terroir http://www.librairiepantoute.com/fichelivre.asp?id=pzyabsajuug&/quebec-capitale-gastronomique/anne-l-desjardins/9782923194684
Abundant weeds spells summer Yes, purselane, and many more
http://www.gourmet.com/food/2008/07/purslane
Vegetable paper – very cool!
http://02a9443.netsolstores.com/vegetablefruitspapyrus.aspx
Food movies : an updated list
http://www.browniepointsblog.com/2006/04/30/food-movies/
Fried milk : old recipes that seem fresh
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/09fried.html?_r=2&ref=dining&oref=slogin&oref=slogin
Tofu makes the sperm go away
And other things that suddenly may be bad for you like marble counter tops, jalapeno and tilapia.. just like reading too many headlines and too much worrying.
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/07/culinary-trivia.html?mbid=rss_epilog
More soy trouble – a revealing report on the truth about soy
We have been misled to believe it is a super healthfood consumed widely by Asians when in fact, most of the soy we eat is a product of the sketchy manipulations of food industry, with questionable effects on our health. One thing for sure, there is a strong link to thyroid problems, and that in its unfermented or raw state, it is difficult on our system. So not only is it not a health food, it is potentially toxic, not to mention all GMO and everywhere, so difficult to avoid. How the soy industry craftily pulled off the con and more..
Spilling the beans http://gremolata.com/soytrouble.htm
The ultimate chocolate chip cookie From Tollhouse to today’s top chefs, David Leite combines their tricks in one perfect recipe : Beyond the usual, the key is resting the dough (36hr) and adding salt (of course!). http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/09/dining/09chip.html?pagewanted=all
The Ideas in food team have also found that vacuum packing the dough has beneficial effects in speeding up the hydration process..
Cucumber kimchi - a less stinky source of Lactobacilli delights http://sacurrent.com/dining/story.asp?id=69043
Locavore not only the best new word, but an official trend as people who don’t want to get dirty gardening outsource.. At least, it shows they value real food and are voting for a saner food system over the industrial one with their food dollars; even if it’s to be trendy, it’s a good thing. Like Barbara Kingsolver says, “I can’t tell you how joyful it makes me to hear that it’s trendy for people in Manhattan to own a part of a cow.”
"A Locally Grown Diet With Fuss but No Muss,"
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/22/dining/22local.html?ref=dining
In response to Kim Severson’s article:
Is eating local earnest or elitest? http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2008/07/op-ed-elitism-a.html
How to make jam as the summer berries come in.. http://www.amateurgourmet.com/2008/07/tuesday_jammaki.html
For a more complete Jam Session, go to ever reliable Canadian Living team http://www.canadianliving.com/food/menus_and_collections/jam_session.php
How to kill a lobster more humanely Although the evidence in so far indicates that the cook is most affected by the cooking of the lobster..
http://themoment.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/07/03/the-back-story-shell-shock/?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
Walmart branches out into local, now that it is convenient for their profit margins.. http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5ghQqDXMxs1hrKN5FHcgclPZy5msQD91LHT980
The 11 Best Foods you aren’t eating
http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/06/30/the-11-best-foods-you-arent-eating/index.html?ref=dining
B&B June 2008
Bits and Bites June 2008
Finding grass-fed beef in and around Montreal http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2008/06/24/searching-for-grass-fed-beef.aspx
Stellar local products: a few Quebec favourites most of us are familiar with, but in case you're not.. http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1§ion=21&article=59024
Upcoming books on Sousvide http://blog.khymos.org/2008/06/25/upcoming-books-on-sous-vide/
Turtle soup: I don’t know anyone who grew up eating turtle soup, but it sounds good with the meaty broth and the sherry on the side, even without the turtle.. http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/08178/892555-34.stm
China makes ‘kung pao chicken’ official for the Olympics, in an effort to make the names of many traditional dishes more inviting to visitors. Out with ‘Chicken without a sexual life’, ‘bean curd made by a pock-marked woman’ and ‘ants climbing a tree’..
http://www.smh.com.au/news/news/goodbye-to-chicken-without-sexual-life/2008/06/20/1213770880006.html
What’s up with Chinese menus? http://www.slate.com/id/2194074/
A fantastic, important article by Tom Philpott: How the organic movement can regain its relevance
Organic being the new place of worship for white people who just want to feel better has meant an increase in organic farming but not a rosier big picture. So much for the ‘Law of Return’. Even if we’re buying organic more, the corporate giants (Mosanto, Cargill, Potash) are still making gains, to the detriment of the environment and our food supply. Why? Because 1% of want to get our hands dirty farming, and less than 1% of the agro land is managed in an organic, sustainable manner. How do we change that? (We don’t have to take up farming) By making smaller diversified farms more viable; Tom Philpott has some good ideas for government. For us, it’s all about opting out of the mainstream industrial food chain that promotes ignorance and deceit for the bottom line.
I don’t only buy organic, but mostly from small and local enough producers that I know I can trust; that’s what’s most important to me. With time, and article after article like this one, I am becoming more convinced that it is better to buy from small and not necessarily certified organic rather than big, corporate and organic.
His conclusion to the article sums it up : ‘As our globe lurches into a period of ecological and economic crises -- not least, the food crisis -- what we need is less ignorance about food and more people with their hands in the dirt producing it. If we can't achieve that, than the Tysons, Cargills, and Monsantos will retain their grip over food production, and organics really will amount to some "stuff white people like" -- a soothing room within a sinking ship.’
http://www.grist.org/comments/food/2008/06/27/index.html
Grilling season: Some hot recipes - Spatchcocked chicken (chicken grilled flat under a brick), Naked ribs and Lamb roast http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook25-2008jun25,0,7195219.story?page=2
Basted eggs - a cool looking recipe http://www.cheftalk.com/content/display.cfm?articleid=252
Katahdin lamb A new breed of lamb to look for http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080625.wllamb25/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20080625.wllamb25
Menu fonts I absolutely don’t agree with fussy fonts to sell fancy food.. But I’m a no frills, no bullshit - Arial, Times New Roman kind of girl anyway, and I’ve always believed in minimizing a customer’s annoyance with clarity above all. Besides, with all my weird sounding wild ingredients, no matter how straight-forward I want to be, my menus can’t help but sound convoluted - the last thing the customer needs is more confusion..
http://www.time.com/time/business/article/0,8599,1813950,00.html?CFID=7382408&CFTOKEN=90008197
Copyrighting and patenting in the food world: For chefs, protecting your intellectual property is no easy business, not that I really believe in it. For sure, copycats are frustrating, but since food and restaurants are so much more than a script or ingredient list, the whole idea seems pointless. Besides, chefs are naturally always in motion, just keep on moving and ‘creating’, I say.. http://www.chow.com/stories/10708
Holy trios by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall Some three-ingredient summer dishes to inspire you.. It’s a helpful hint when building menus and recipes that I go by too, whether cooking at home or at the restaurant. First you, decide on the three key ingredients that will provide the structure and theme of the dish, then you decide on the form and direction (seasoning), and fill in with supporting minor touches.. At the restaurant, a few extra steps in method or a few extra supporting ingredients might add a certain complexity or subtle layers of flavour, additional flash or texture, but the main players should be shining in the forefront (and what’s mentioned on the menu), the rest there to boost and show them off..
http://lifeandhealth.guardian.co.uk/foodanddrink/hughfearnleywhittingstall/story/0,,2285202,00.html
Le Locale - An attractive new Montreal restaurant with personality and attitude. First of all, for the ‘locale’.. What a great spot! A beautiful terrasse, a hot lounge, an airy artsy cool big dining room with an open kitchen.. Then there’s a very enticing menu with a mix of low brow –high brow offerings: an array of composed salads, with poireaux vinaigrette, the ubiquitous beet-goat cheese thing, but more surprisingly one with brussel sprouts, and there are poached eggs everywhere (a good thing); tartares seem to be a popular item; hot entrées include escargots, pork belly, crabcake, foie gras, and the mains feature big meat: pork ribs, blade roast, ribsteak, pork ribs, the place smells like a bbq (another good thing). More up my alley, there were fish offerings too (the mackerel sounded good, as did the halibut and tuna, but they’re off my list).. My dining partners had calf’s liver, a main course tartine (there’s the lowbrow.., alongside the ‘hangover’ tart featuring smoked meat) and I had a nordic shrimp chorizo risotto. All were satisfactory, but not as good as the entrées (salads, escargots).. I’d be curious to try so much more because I do sense a passion, a certain seriousness and an authentic style.. Besides, this place is beyond seductive, both ambiance and food wise, not to mention the terrific people watching. Although the service was good when present, it was scarce, and the food was very slow. We didn’t mind, but couldn’t help but notice how obviously juiced the staff was.. Considering that the restaurant was packed, with an added private party upstairs, I can understand, especially given that this is still a very young restaurant.. Perhaps, it’s by nature too big and busy to ever expect perfection, but I’ll be back nonetheless. 740 William (on the western border of Old Montreal just west of McGill..), 514-397-7737
Bottlemania – A book about water How it happened that we tragically bought into bottled water, the ensuing backlash, and the issues surrounding water, from the fight over its privatization, to the safety of the water we drink, how we drink it, and how much we actually need to drink..
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/15/books/review/Margonelli-t.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
White pepper bites I’ve never been a fan, and I never adhered to the rule that you can use white to replace black in light preparations.. Because they don’t taste the same - black pepper tastes great, white pepper doesn’t, especially when over used. It often came up with my students when I was criticizing their seasoning (usually saying there was too much white pepper, who told you to use white pepper anyway?!), and they would be ‘like, but like, chef, I barely used any like at all’. Well I could taste it, and didn’t like it. Now I know why. http://news.curiouscook.com/
Kasu – a novel unami rich ingredient to play with
Where are the women? I’ve obviously thought and talked about this before, and I think this article says it pretty much as it is, but my feeling is that nowadays, most women simply opt out because cheffing at the highest level does not ultimately suit them in their lifestyle choices.
http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2008/06/womenchefs
Bacon salt : ‘You won’t believe it isn’t bacon!’ Then what is it ??!!, faux bacon bit powder mixed with salt? Bad slogan, I say. I can understand wanting bacon taste everywhere, but I’ll stick to more natural ways like smoked salt, or real bacon, thank you.. http://www.idahostatesman.com/life/story/405785.html
Best Vegetarian recipes : A round-up of the best sites for Veg-heads
James Beard Awards (the Culinary Oscars) : Grant Achatz takes the top chef prize, Gavin Kaysen of Café Boulud the Rising Chef award; Gramercy Tavern is outstanding Restaurant and Central Michel Richard was awarded Best New Restaurant.. The Top Cookbook Prize goes to The River Cottage Meat Book by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. http://jbfawards.com/content/2008-nominees#books
Mexico City smog hurting people's sense of smell http://www.reuters.com/article/environmentNews/idUSN0430376020080604
Attack of the killer tomatoes, another chapter in the industrial food disaster
http://gristmill.grist.org/story/2008/6/5/91413/99653?source=weekly
McDonald’s and Tim Hortons pull tomatoes from their menus
http://ap.google.com/article/ALeqM5gHOS5aiZzMkus0JnifVP8PDokb4gD916TIDG0
Michèle Formeman’s new cookbook on the Lanaudière – Look for it in Quebec bookstores for a glimpse of our region’s underrated bounty, for a couple of my recipes and a surprisingly good photo of François and I with sun in our eyes.. http://www.lanaudiere.ca/fr/index.jsp?numPage=425&numFiche=1054
François on La Semaine Verte Catch the last of François' five week series of clips on wild edibles on the fantastic TV show La Semaine Verte, on Radio Canada (Channel 4 in E, Channel 2 in W) on Sundays at 12:30pm or Saturdays at 6pm.. Whoops, it appears I'm a little late; the last one airs Saturday at 6pm (a repeat of this past Sunday's show)..
Seratonin levels as important as blood sugar in affecting reasoning, emotions and decision making We've heard of the effects of 'nature's tranquilizer' with tryptophan and turkey soup, but it turns out that cheese offers more of a tryptophan boost, and that not only can it make you feel good and sleepy, it can do wonders for you at the office (if you can stay awake, I guess..) I've long gathered that I had low seratonin levels due to my insomnia and inherent madness/moodiness, but I also tend to think my decision making is more rational than emotional, and I sure do eat a lot of cheese.. My present decision making leads me to the conclusion that the human body is evidently far more complex than that..
The cheesy secret behind good decision making http://www.independent.co.uk/news/science/the-cheesy-secret-behind-successful-decision-making-841419.html
There will be chicken blood! I know I won’t ever relish being at any slaughtering, but I do think it’s important to be near enough to at least be aware; it is a part of being an omnivore. Or as Martin Picard said albeit less delicately, ‘If you’re going to eat it, well ben ?$%?&*!, you have to kill it!’ Or it was something like that on English TV, very funny..
http://www.slate.com/id/2192934/?from=rss
How About Slaughterhouse Tour Before Supper, Food Lover? The issue comes up in a real way at Blue Hill, Stone Farms, where Dan Barber wonders how connected to their food his customers actually want to be.. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/06/nyregion/06bigcity.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
I LOVE this chandelier!! http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/06/a-bright-lighti.html?cid=117621764
The World According to Monsanto – An ABSOLUTE MUST SEE! Now playing at the AMC Forum in English and at the Ex-Centris in English and French with French subtitles, this is a deeply troubling documentary about the sketchy ethics of the corporate giant and their horrifying, monstrous, detrimental influence on the world food supply and on our health with their GMO program. Solutions seem daunting and far-off in face of this monster but mainstream information as provided by this film is some kind of a start. Awareness is the only seed of hope for change in this David and Goliath battle between good sense, small farmers and agri-business profits.
Ironically, I could easily have been working for Monsanto if I’d continued down my original chemical engineering career path – looks like the seductive kitchen aromas saved me from a destiny of sure hell.
Recipe deal breakers ?? A funny article about what line, ingredient or technique will stop you from doing a recipe. I can relate; there are certain things I would never do in my home kitchen or in any kitchen for that matter, but I would never hesitate to substitute or not follow the recipe altogether. In fact, those are the kinds of recipes I like to read. It’s like food porn. I would have liked to see that fleur de sel recipe, but I would have used bought salt for the dish. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/04/dining/04recipes.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
New Cookbooks to check out
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/06/01/books/review/Sifton-Cooking-t.html?ref=review
Eating weeds. I guess you have to start somewhere, but if only people knew there was much tastier weeds than dandelion out there (which is barely edible unless very young). I do however support the idea of most wild greens with bacon, with cheese and in quiche. http://www.timesargus.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080603/FEATURES17/806030313/1034/FEATURES17
Leading Spanish Chefs scrap - Santi Santamaria, the traditionalist, attacks Ferran Adria for his use of questionable chemicals and techniques. http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/europe/spain/1955806/Famed-El-Bulli-chef-Ferran-Adria-accused-of-'poisoning'-his-diners.html
B&B May 2008
Bits and Bites May 2008
Look for us on the the Radio-Can food show, L’Épicerie on Wednesday June 18 at 7:30pm !! http://www.radio-canada.ca/actualite/v2/lepicerie/
Tongue tripping with the Miracle fruit.. I am hardly turned on by the idea of a mouth puckering fruit that screws up your taste buds and makes everything taste sweet, but people seem excited, the food web has been crazy over this story.. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/28/dining/28flavor.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
Imagined tastes falling short. I love this tale because I totally relate. Maybe because I travel more through books than across continents in real life. For me, the best example of this is in a childhood memory of Turkish delight from the Narnia chronicles.. I was sooo disappointed when I actually tasted Turkish delight. ‘Pot luck’ http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/25/magazine/25food-t-001.html?partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
Head and shoulder Martin Picard and Fred Morin make a splash at a TO fundraiser with a dish of Pig head and shoulder http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080523.wlbeard23/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20080523.wlbeard23
Ivy Knight’s more colourful ‘behind the scenes’ account of this dinner – I love the way she refers to the ‘French guys’ all the time; apparently it takes a Montreal crew to spice up a TO shindig.. http://gremolata.com/ivybeard.htm
No farmers, no food: A wake-up call from a young American farmer who sees clearly what needs to happen for us to have a sustainable food future, same goes here in Canada.. http://gristmill.grist.org/story/2008/5/19/8032/52484?source=food
‘To truly create a sustainable food system, we’ll have to face the farm labour crisis’. Tom Philpott on the same vein: Farm hands down http://www.grist.org/comments/food/2008/05/30/?source=food
Hangover history – the truths and mystery surrounding this global ailment including regional remedies, all to say there’s no real cure yet.. Interesting read nonetheless. http://www.newyorker.com/reporting/2008/05/26/080526fa_fact_acocella?currentPage=all
Salt, not the evil enemy – Ie, For most of us, no worries. So, Go ahead, salt your food, your taste buds will thank you http://www.esquire.com/the-side/MARIANI/mariani-salt-essay
Celery! I’m only happy and proud to see one of my favourite foodstuffs get some press. Not only is celery necessary in cooking (mirepoix), and indespensible in spring (with lobster, crab, shrimp..), it turns out it’s also good for the brain – I like that. http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601124&sid=aq8CCEQcmg8s&refer=home
Monkeys snack on junkfood when stressed out too, but only the monkeys it seems, actually find comfort in comfort foods.. Comfort food for monkeys http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/20/science/20tier.html?_r=1&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss&oref=slogin
Scary how ‘awful’ our Canadian food labeling laws are
The 25 People who changed food in America , a slideshow by Gourmet
http://www.gourmet.com/food/2008/05/25people?slide=1#showHeader
Some sustainable fish talk
It is quite unbelievable that Las Vegas has a daily diet of 60 000 lb of (unsustainable) shrimp.
http://fromartz.typepad.com/chews/2008/05/las-vegass-dail.html
Chicago repeals foie gras ban
http://newsblogs.chicagotribune.com/clout_st/2008/05/lobbying-on-foi.html
http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2008/05/chicago-repeals.html
Restaurant notes:
Pop (Laloux's wine bar next door) sounds amazing! Read L. Chesterman's review, http://www.canada.com/montrealgazette/news/weekendlife/story.html?id=d40167b9-f4b1-473b-93e5-bf611f225d25
Graziella, 116 McGill, 514-876-0116
In a nutshell, I LOVED it. I was a huge fan of Il Sole, and in this space, her version of modern Italian food seems even more beautiful and refined. She has an artful, clean and elegant style that is also flavour forward with good quality EVO and sea salt everywhere. Reading the menu, everything sounded appealing. Everything I tasted was delicious - simple, pure tastes and presentations, perfect cuissons - I especially loved the pheasant ravioli, my carpaccio with caramelized endive, and my dining partner’s Fontina studded veal. The wine list is interesting too with a broad cross-section of selections from Italy and France . On McGill in Old Montreal, this is a must for a special occasion.
If the service had been even slightly warm and more attentive, I would have no problem putting this restaurant among the top in the city. I’ll be back.
Bon Appetit launches a new website with a highlight (apparently) being Project Recipe, their 100 top recipes in detail http://www.epicurious.com/bonappetit/ Good idea, I suppose, but it will never match Gourmet.com for content..
Could you be a supertaster? http://www.thetasteofsweet.com/quiz.html
Packaged goods: Which are the best containers for storing our food?
http://www.culinate.com/articles/features/food_storage
Everything Asparagus , including confirmation by Harold McGee on the peculiar scent it can give to one’s urine – the culprit is also a component of skunk spray.. http://gremolata.com/asparagus.htm
Farming in the city, an inspiring story of progress in New York .. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/07/dining/07urban.html?_r=1&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss&oref=slogin
Celebrating the potato - I’m all for it!
The International Year of the Potato http://www.sabrosito.ca/archives/106
Five books a farmer thinks we should read – I plan on heeding his recommendations. 4 out of 5 to go..
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/05/five-books-you.html?mbid=rss_epilog
A great article about wine, how taste is obviously altered by perception and context etc. which is all fine. That doesn’t mean fine wine is a hoax. But it doesn’t mean an expensive bottle is always better either.. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/07/dining/07pour.html?pagewanted=2&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
More worries about sugar - Much of the world’s sugar source is in pesticide heavy GM beets.. http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2008/05/politicsoftheplate_05_09_08
Eating greens to live long and strong – I’ve seen it and believe it!
Eat Herbs, Live to Be 256
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/05/eat-herbs-live.html?mbid=rss_epilog
On la Semaine Verte, ‘Le Potager de La Nouvelle France ’ , a special on Quebec ’s 400 years of culinary history.
http://www1.radio-canada.ca/actualite/semaine_verte/reportages.aspx?IDItemMenu=-1
Futuristic kitchen designs for the home
http://www.gourmet.com/food/2008/05/kitchenshow
Royal reds, a wild American shrimp species
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/04/29/AR2008042900518.html
Surely better than the ubiquious Asian pond shrimp, but how sustainable this catch is, is unclear (deep waters, fuel costs, bycatch etc). Still, I would love to taste the suckers some day.. Luckily I have my beloved nordic shrimp for a couple more monthes.
B&B April 2008
Bits and Bites April 2008
Dairy farmer arrests in Quebec and in Ontario; are these purveyers of unpasteurized milk artisans or criminals?
Inside the raw-milk underground http://www.harpers.org/archive/2008/04/0081992, an indepth article on pasteurization, grass-fed cattle and the realities of the industry.
GinaMallet on the Schmidt case in Ontario (Friday April 22 post): http://blog.ginamallet.com/blog
To save a species, serve it for dinner
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/30/dining/30come.html?_r=1&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss&oref=slogin How nice when doing the right thing and good taste come together. It seems that that is how it often happens in nature - species thriving and co-evolving because they need each other.. Nothing is natural in the balance of things and the food chain anymore, mainly due to the unsustainable ways of our food industry. If we didn’t mass produce and mass consume everything...left the fishing to little fishermen not big trawlers, educated more and acted more like stewards on this earth, it would all just take care of itself. We took away the biodiversity, now we have to bring it back?!
Speaking of sustainable fish choices, Taras Grescoe has a new book out, Bottomfeeders, which can only help since in Quebec, we apparently need to be hit over the head a few more times before giving up the big fish faves..
He will be at Bon Appetit Cookbooks in Westmount for a book signing on Saturday May 10th at 2PM . Call 514-369-2002 to rsvp.
Ban bottled water already ! Since Alice Waters took a stand a year or two ago and a few chef-restaurateurs followed, there has been much talk in the media, and little action. Here in Montreal , despite wake-up calls from a few including Lesley Chesterman, it’s still water-list snobbery reigning over eco-sensibility. What kills me is that restaurants are pushing imported bottled waters too boot! Including the American tap water Aquafina and all those fancy European brands flown and trucked in from miles, when we have the best water in the world right here! It’s not just the shipping footprint and recycling issue, don’t forget the footprint behind just making the plastic.. Bottom line - completely unnecessary, in fact outrageously stupid, as Amy makes clear in her blog with some good examples of stupid waters http://cookingwithamy.blogspot.com/2008/04/ban-bottled-water.html
A year ago: Restaurants making changes in CA http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/03/21/FDGU1OMMT61.DTL
Here in Quebec, filtered tap water is the way to go..
Water filters: Cheap and easy for the home or business http://www.greenerchoices.org/ratings.cfm?product=waterfilter
Aquaovo, a filter system with an eco-design (no electricity): http://www.aquaovo.com/
Quebec waters to support: If you must do the bottle, from local springs, try Plus 1 (bonus bidegradable bottle) or Amaro, and St-Justin for bubbles http://www.plusonewater.ca/en/our_water.php
A comprehensive list with links for all your local water info needs (in French) : http://www.toile.com/quebec/Commerce_et_economie/Produits_et_services/Alimentation/Eau_de_source/
As Daniel Boulud and JG Vonghricten hit Vancouver, and Susur leaves TO for NYC, Vancouver and TO rival for Canadian food city status (outside Quebec of course)
Van City sizzles, T.O. fizzles’ http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080423.wvancouver23/BNStory/lifeMain/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20080423.wvancouver23
Newfoundland cod stocks show signs of rebounding, BUT..
‘Not so fast for cod’s sake’ http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2008/04/politicsoftheplate_04_22_08
Boy or Girl? The Answer May Depend on Mom’s Eating Habits
http://well.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/04/23/boy-or-girl-the-answer-may-depend-on-moms-eating-habits/
The Pope’s risotto – he’s wilder than we thought; ramps play an integral role..
http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/23/dining/231rrex.html?ref=dining
ElBulli tops the 50 Best restaurants in the world (S.Pelligrino) list once again http://www.theworlds50best.com/2008_list.html
Just as Ferran Adria plans on downsizing . So much for ever getting a rez..
http://www.bighospitality.co.uk/item/1559/pg_dtl_art_news/238/pg_ftr_art
Natural, ‘ethical’ foie gras in Spain , Dan Barber describes it as the best culinary experience of his life..
http://www.lancasterfarming.com/node/1197
Unbelievable! Heinz introduces gourmet ketchup to much ado
http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2008/04/heinz-introduce.html?mbid=rss_epilog
Manufacturing meat (cultured meat cells) – sounds like science fiction!
Montreal hotspots in the New York Times travel section: The usual suspects, Pied de Cochon, Joe Beef et co. and Gardemanger impress a visiting New Yorker.. http://travel.nytimes.com/2008/04/06/travel/06choice.html?ex=1365220800&en=ca50a815e615af18&ei=5089&partner=rssyahoo&emc=rss
From the food scientists:
Caffeine helps protect against Alzheimer’s in a fat heavy diet http://www.upi.com/NewsTrack/Health/2008/04/03/adding_coffee_to_doughnut_protects_brain/4996/
Research says: water is no miracle cure. Good thing, because I could never do the 8 glasses a day, and it just doesn’t seem right to be spending so much time, energy and money on my pee.
Raising food costs might be a good thing, because it’s only the commodities and all that it is heavily reliant on petroleum (for fertilizer, pesticides and transport) that will significantly increase. This could be the quickest way to a more sustainable food system, and hurt the fast, processed food the most, in effect levelling the playing field (between industrial food and small farms). This would automatically force us all to think about where our food comes and make more regional, sensible choices. Those of us priveleged enough to have the choice should be eating real food, and paying the real price. Wouldn't opting out of the industrial system take some pressure off the global food system, leaving more wheat, rice and corn for the rest of the world? Now, if only we would stop using it so much to make ethanol (hardly the best solution). http://www.nytimes.com/2008/04/02/dining/02cheap.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&ref=dining
Then again, it's not so simple. From Grist, the story on what's behind rising food prices.
Sticker shock! What's causing the sudden run-up in food prices?http://gristmill.grist.org/story/2008/4/25/74229/2816
Why the ethanol as biofuel solution is not: Rex Murphy's end of the ethanol dream http://www.cbc.ca/national/blog/video/rex_murphy/end_of_the_ethanol_dream.html
A really great interview with Anthony Bourdain if you have an hour.. Not so different from the one in Mtl. but he’s undeniably authentic, witty, and entertaining, even wise at times.. http://gremolata.com/gfr.htm
One of my favourite quotes by the late physicist Nicholas Kurti.. At a presentation for the Royal Society of London in 1969 he lamented, "I think it is a sad reflection on our civilization that while we can and do measure the temperature in the atmosphere of Venus, we do not know what goes on inside our soufflés." See the article below. Although there seem to be some errors in this article (sodium alginate and calcium inversed in sphere making, confusing making spheres with foams, mixing the processes etc..), it's a good overview of food science, and I love the mention of the ouzo effect, still baffling to food scientists.. http://www.sciencenews.org/articles/20080329/bob10.asp
Almonds extra good for you! Of course I know to take all nutritional information with a grain of salt now, but still I like to cheer on one of my favourites.. http://www.chillicothegazette.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20080331/LIFESTYLE/803310312