soupnancy

B&B August 2016

THE MOST EXCLUSIVE RESTAURANT IN AMERICA Damon Baehrel’s methods are a marvel, and his tables are all booked until 2025. Or are they? By Nick Paumgarten  http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2016/08/29/damon-baehrel-the-most-exclusive-restaurant-in-america Ridiculous! Unlikely that he’s alone (and why would that be a good thing?) His concoctions sound gross anyway, even dangerous! If he really lived so completely off the land, there would be more mention of real wild vegetables, more than bark, sap, goldenrod and powders. And a 10yr waiting list, c’mon. It all sounds so incredibly exaggerated. Hardly surprising with all the BS out there these days. If  Baehrel didn’t exist, foodies would have to invent him.’ 

Where to eat in Montreal according to another:  Covers most of the tops, including newbies, looks like a good list.. http://www.foodrepublic.com/2016/08/24/where-to-eat-in-montreal-quebec/

Gluten probably not to blame Unless You Have Celiac Disease says another study http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/next/body/unless-you-have-celiac-disease-gluten-sensitivity-is-probably-just-in-your-head/

The Colonel Sanders recipe of 11 herbs& spices revealed ! In case you want to make KFC at home.. http://www.countryliving.com/food-drinks/a39634/kfc-chicken-secret-recipe-revealed/

The Secret to a long and healthy life: A plant based diet with more beans than meat and Weeds, Community, Walking, Wine, Sex and Naps http://news.nationalgeographic.com/2015/04/150412-longevity-health-blue-zones-obesity-diet-ngbooktalk/

Indigenous foods that are underrated. Move over kale! And we at Les Jardins Sauvages have a hundred more! http://civileats.com/2016/08/23/the-native-foods-we-should-be-eating/

About the person not the gender – I agree fully with her, my experience being similar as a woman in the kitchen http://luckypeach.com/its-about-the-person-not-the-gender/

The rise of the Hipster sommelier not always Delicious https://grapecollective.com/articles/how-the-hipster-somms-could-get-away-with-murder-and-how-we-can-stop-them

How Plants get such wierd names I love the common names and the weirder the better (although the latin names do come in handy once and a while) http://luckypeach.com/a-plant-by-any-other-name/

57 things to eat/drink before you die in Montreal according to someone http://dailyhive.com/montreal/things-to-eat-in-montreal

On Michel Richard, legendary French-American chef, after his passing http://articles.latimes.com/2006/nov/01/food/fo-calcook1

SlowMeat: Eat less better quality meat http://www.slowfood.com/what-we-do/themes/slow-meat/

A Name You Should Know: Eugénie Brazier,  a great (and underappreciated) Michelin starred French Chef from the 1930’s. Love this quote of hers and signature dish: ‘Of cooking, she would write that it’s "not complicated… you have to be well organized, to remember things, and to have a bit of taste." Among the many dishes she became famous for, volaille demi-deuilis a rich and aromatic masterpiece. An abundance of black truffle slices are slid between the flesh and the skin of a Bresse chicken, to perfume the meat while it poaches in bouillon. It’s finished with a cream-enriched sauce made from the reduced cooking liquid.’ http://www.eater.com/2016/8/12/12382076/eugenie-brazier

Review your oyster knowledge with Rowan Jacobson’s twenty (new) rules for Oyster eating http://luckypeach.com/guides/the-new-rules-of-oyster-eating/

Huel – the food of the future? Yuck, I hope not. “If I had to eat this, I’d lose the will to live pretty quickly.” https://www.theguardian.com/science/2016/jul/31/huel-human-fuel-hi-tech-food-powder?CMP=twt_a-lifeandstyle_b-gdnfood

I love the idea of a community oven.. https://food52.com/blog/17568-the-centuries-old-form-of-public-cooking-that-s-making-a-comeback?

Bio et Rentable: Promising future for organic farming with work towards a sustainable/profitable business model (in French) http://plus.lapresse.ca/screens/2171e9ca-ba61-4b25-a359-6c8b33cd6aa3%7CpuEIeZ1h_e0g.html

Mushroom Leather - Neat! http://grist.org/living/your-next-leather-accessory-might-be-made-from-mushrooms/

The Science of Baking Cookies http://luckypeach.com/the-science-of-baking-cookies/

Food fraud and misleading marketing  You have to be on your toes when shopping at the supermarket. Frustrating. Yes even Oasis juice has at its base that apple/pear concoction that likely contains apples grown in China with pesticides that are banned here.  http://firstwefeast.com/features/2016/08/food-fraud-at-supermarkets/

How food became pop culture: Mario Batali sums up the last 40 years or so of the North American food scene. Good read, especially for younger cooks and foodies for a bit of perspective. http://luckypeach.com/how-food-became-pop-culture-mario-batali/

The Globe & Mail’s Food 53 - Influential people in Canadian food http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/the-food-53-thegatekeepers/article31118114/#index?cmpid=mktg16

A Map of where your food comes from may surprise you http://www.npr.org/sections/thesalt/2016/06/13/481586649/a-map-of-where-your-food-originated-may-surprise-you?

Dinner theatre at Alinea I don’t know man - kinda cool, kinda seems like a little much.. http://ruthreichl.com/2016/06/dinner-theater.html/

Perception is reality when it comes to taste http://luckypeach.com/perception-vs-reality/

Harold McGee debunks MSG myth  MSG is NOT bad for you!http://luckypeach.com/on-msg-and-chinese-restaurant-syndrome/

Our gigantic problem with portions http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/apr/25/problem-portions-eating-too-much-food-control-cutting-down?

I love Dorie Greenspan! Her books just make you want to bake.http://luckypeach.com/what-would-dorie-greenspan-do/

A Naked restaurant, C’mon! http://www.theguardian.com/global/commentisfree/2016/apr/22/naked-restaurant-london-the-bunyadi-horror

Ken Oringer on Kitchen Culture Then and Now - Less brunoise, More XO sauce http://luckypeach.com/culture-of-the-kitchen-ken-oringer/

Anthony Bourdain on his documentary about Jeremiah Tower, a US food icon – It’s important to remember/get to know the pioneers! http://www.grubstreet.com/2016/04/bourdain-jeremiah-tower-interview.html?

Des ouvertures de resto à Montreal attendues ce printemps http://journalmetro.com/opinions/bouffe-et-compagnie/951268/5-restos-qui-feront-le-printemps/

Great article by Mario Batali on the evolution of food, cooking and dining and the impact of food TV http://luckypeach.com/how-food-became-pop-culture-mario-batali/

Funny this trend of more food savvy people who don’t know how to cook http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/apr/17/too-many-cookbooks-not-enough-broth-gwyneth-paltrow?

Carbonaragate http://www.newyorker.com/culture/cultural-comment/carbonara-purists-cant-stop-the-pasta-revolution? I think we should respect and celebrate traditional recipes and know what the original recipe is, without being afraid of riffing on it and making it our own. But then it should be referred to as ‘our take on Carbonara’ or ‘Carbonara inspired..’  And when it no longer resembles the original(s) at all, then it should be called something else.

Kale is not ‘healthy’. Our food is not healthy; we will be healthy if we eat nutritious food, which means more cheese than cheese product, more pig’s ears than mechanically separated meat, more grains than white flour.. alongside that kale salad. https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/no-food-is-healthy-not-even-kale/2016/01/15/4a5c2d24-ba52-11e5-829c-26ffb874a18d_story.html

My favourite kind of wine is white and fresh – with some novel recommendations via Bill http://montrealgazette.com/life/more-lessons-in-white-the-refreshing-quality-of-acidic-grapes

Perspective on Molecular Gastronomy: Tricks vs Taste and Nutrition Exactly! I went to NY to do a class on Hydrocolloids ten years ago because it was new and fascinating.  But back in my kitchen, I realized how stupid it was for me here at Les Jardins Sauvages, working with the freshest terroir product to be over-manipulating with all these industrial powders. Yes, I gleaned a few techniques and a deeper understanding of gels but most of it went into the trash. It just didn't make sense if I listened to my taste buds and a conscience. Around the same time I rediscovered béchamel, traditional mayonnaise and creme anglaise for ice cream. No going back. https://munchies.vice.com/en/articles/molecular-gastronomy-still-needs-to-taste-good

The Earthquake that’s about to Hit Restaurants  No doubt prices have to go up no matter how crafty and smart we get in managing, even if people find it crazy to pay 18$ for a dish.. With super slim/non-existent profit margins, while trying to pay better wages, alongside exorbitant taxes etc, not to mention food and all other ‘fixed costs’ that have also increased. We’ve all been holding our breath for too long. One step would be axing the tip as an essential revenue/salary, but that’s only a part of the solution. No matter how the cookie crumbles, we have to charge more period.  People will hate it, they won’t understand, but c’est comme ça.  Inevitable, especially with the new generation of labour with benefits. http://www.gq.com/story/david-chang-resturant-business-challenges

Sourdough starter, a wonderful pet   I lovingly kept one (Leonard) for almost a year, going from taking precious care of it with regular feeding to negligent spontaneous feeding when I wasn’t making enough bread.. Eventually he turned and I ditched the idea which I love in theory, but realistically, I only make bread once a week and I’m not into pets.  Now, I just start my bread a day or two in advance for a complex flavour without the daily doting. http://mobile.nytimes.com/2016/03/23/dining/sourdough-starter-bread-baking.html?

Butcher, Baker or Scientist - Find your suitable career via a survey  Great in theory, Bullshit in practice.  The food industry is more nuanced than that. Apparently here, my strength is in marketing/business administration which is the opposite of the truth. Reminds me of a survey in high school that told me I should be in marketing, business administration or pure science, very different from cooking.  Good thing I never paid too much attention! http://tasteyourfuture.ca/butcher-baker-or-scientist-where-do-you-fit/

Best Montreal Pho I love ‘Tonkinese soup’ and living in the country, I miss it even if I can cook something similar that pretty much hits the spot. Because I’m no longer a city girl, I’ll take his word on these recommendations..  http://www.shutupandeat.ca/2016/03/29/montreals-best-pho-2016/

Bits and Bites March 2016

Both sides of the truth wrt Modern food: Tragic due to industrialization, loss of biodiversity and nutrients in our food system, and meanwhile, more efficiency, more accessibility.. http://grist.org/food/modern-food-is-a-triumph-modern-food-is-a-disaster/

Dessert is more complicated than you think in the restaurant biz A pain for most chefs unless you can afford a pastry chef, and either way, not necessarily profitable.. But, although I’m not a sweet tooth, I enjoy making desserts – ultimately because with experience, I know how important the sweet course is when you are in the business of making people happy and treating them extra special! https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2015/02/10/why-restaurants-dont-always-want-you-to-order-dessert/

Reassessing tipping culture – the debate continues http://www.goodfoodrevolution.com/just-the-tip/ One day, hopefully we can overhaul the current nonsensical system. The only thing holding me back personally is the legal complexity and the economic climate including sticker shock for the customer.

The secret to Indian food is contrasting flavours as opposed to overlap of similar molecules as in Western cuisine https://www.washingtonpost.com/news/wonk/wp/2015/03/03/a-scientific-explanation-of-what-makes-indian-food-so-delicious/

About that Persay NYTimes review – chefs weigh in on the changing times http://www.esquire.com/food-drink/restaurants/news/a41981/per-se-new-york-times-chef-reactions/

Nestle admits to slave labour on coffee plantations, no way!? After decades of ‘unfair trade’ and an empire more than partially built on the backs of ‘slaves’.. http://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2016/mar/02/nestle-admits-slave-labour-risk-on-brazil-coffee-plantations

Primo pay to prep your own food – the cost of ready-made food at the supermarket in a smart chart: All for fresher, more wholesome food, think about it – 30$/h to cube melon, 200$/h to slice your own cheese! http://nutritionnisteurbain.ca/infographiques/le-cout-de-la-transformation-des-aliments-frais/

Mushroom burial suit/coffin turns dead bodies into compost - a cleaner end of life option than traditional burial or cremation https://m.facebook.com/sharer.php?u=http://grist.org/living/mushroom-burial-suit-turns-dead-bodies-into-clean-compost/

Chaga, the miracle mushroom (tonic) catches on (in French) http://ici.radio-canada.ca/emissions/bien_dans_son_assiette/2015-2016/chronique.asp?idChronique=395201

Food allergy fakers wrecking it for the truly afflicted https://www.bostonglobe.com/magazine/2015/10/14/why-food-allergy-fakers-need-stop/PB6uN8NF3eLWFjXnKF5A9K/story.html

The Gut is key to health, emerging nutritional and medical science increasingly demonstrates the importance of our microbes https://t.co/y8hza7d0oA

Persay two star takedown shows that even Thomas Keller is not untouchable at the top.. I find it kind of sad to see people who aim so high and pay so much attention to detail get knocked, especially Keller who has inspired a generation of cooks. The skyhigh prices and bordering on ridiculous preciousness and pretension of Persay was bound to rub a few too many diners the wrong way sooner or later. I’m sure/ I hope this critic did not take it lightly however how catchy the headline.  http://www.nytimes.com/2016/01/13/dining/pete-wells-per-se-review.html

Anticipated Montreal Restaurant openings for Winter 2016 http://montreal.eater.com/2016/1/12/10750170/larrys-atelier-robuchon-agrikol-diplomate-new-restaurants-2016

Food day Canada 2015 Winners Circle  Chefs across Canada promoting local food -I’m proud to be a gold award winner for 2015  http://fooddaycanada.ca/events/the-2015-winners-circle/

America’s national eating disorder http://www.treehugger.com/green-food/whats-wrong-americas-approach-food.html

Diets don’t work! https://medium.com/@davidludwigmd/why-calorie-restricted-diets-don-t-work-532f151a939#.weojm9qpf