San Pellegrino’s Top 50 Restaurants in the world – leaked results show the Roca bros on top, Noma in #2, EMF New York climbs to #5… for whatever it’s worth http://eater.com/archives/2013/04/29/worlds-50-best-top-five-restaurants-leaked.php
A great article by Rowan Jacobson about apples and the apple detective http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2013/04/heritage-apples-john-bunker-maine
The Main Adam Gollner points out his favourite spots along/near Montreal’s iconic strip, St-Laurent http://www.bonappetit.com/blogsandforums/blogs/badaily/2013/04/montreal-boulevard-saint-laurent.html
Lesley Chesterman, the Montreal Gazette's restaurant critic shows her face Makes total sense in this era, as opposed to pretending.. And good for her for embracing the other side and taking a French job! Hopefully her loyal readers will follow and take more of an interest too! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesley+Chesterman+unmasked+Fine+Dining+critic+anonymous/8262095/story.html
How Processed foods are wrecking taste buds .. I’ve observed the phenomenon and thought about this a lot– how people are so used to processed foods, so much salt/sugar/fat and concentrated flavours and extracts that real food can seem boring. A real berry can be disappointing if you’re used to fake tasting juice and muffins; I often feel like I should make my desserts sweeter than I would like because people are used to commercial sweets and chocolate bars.. http://health.howstuffworks.com/wellness/food-nutrition/facts/are-processed-foods-killing-our-taste-buds.htm
Michael Pollan on cooking.. Shifting his focus from the food system and agriculture, his message now is to cook. He says it so well, always so smart and straight up and positive, I love him. If only more people would listen! http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/04/17/pollan-cooks/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto
James McGuire on the baguette – always instructive, and a reminder about good bread, not to be taken for granted.. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/fashion-beauty/Montreal+baker+James+MacGuire+anatomy+baguette/8229257/story.html
Wild turkey experiment in Ontario positive http://www.theobserver.ca/2013/04/11/wild-turkeys-successfully-reintroduced-in-ontario
Montreal Food Trucks a go
Terroir TO – the Cdn foodie event of the year, a synopsis http://www.torontolife.com/daily-dish/food-events/2013/04/09/terroir-2013-recap/
Mosanto an overview of badness - Even if you already hate them, you should hate them even more http://gmo-awareness.com/2011/05/12/monsanto-dirty-dozen/
About Russ Kremer, ‘The Pope of Pork’ and raising pigs the proper way All Barry Estabrook’s articles are worth reading. http://www.onearth.org/article/meet-the-farmer-selling-chipotle-antibiotic-free-pork
Where to Eat in NYC right now Things change fast, neat to check in once and a while for what it’s worth.. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/04/the_manhattan_heatmap_where_to_eat_right_now_1.php
Montreal Restaurants open on Sunday and/or Monday A newly discovered gem http://willtravelforfood.com/2012/04/09/restaurants-montreal-open-sunday-monday-nights/
Seaweeds, the benefits http://www.care2.com/greenliving/5-seaweeds-that-enrich-your-diet.html
Mtl Street food is coming, But.. It was looking good, but now it seems that beurocracy is taking over. Food trucks that can’t move? Why will it take until 2005 to figure it out? www.lapresse.ca/actualites/regional/montreal/201303/31/01-4636370-oui-a-la-bouffe-de-rue-a-montreal-mais.ph
A dietitian examines the Paleo diet blog.fooducate.com/2013/03/26/did-cavemen-have-it-right-my-take-on-the-paleo-diet/ This pretty much sums it up for me.
Bits and Bites March 2013
A film about Michel Bras and son restaurant, haute cuisine in France http://www.cinemaguild.com/stepuptotheplate/
And a film about hunger in the U.S.A., A Place at the table http://www.culinate.com/articles/sift/a_place_at_the_table
Montreal chefs with Lesley Chesterman discuss currant restaurant issues http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Restaurant+unrest+Lesley+Chesterman+takes+look+changes/8167182/story.html
Quebecoise Veronique Rivest wins second place in world wide sommelier competition http://communiques.gouv.qc.ca/gouvqc/communiques/GPQF/Mars2013/29/c9479.html
On the corn system, the omni-present monoculture that rules the world and affects us all – it’s important to be aware how out of whack, unsustainable and expensive it is, how it needs be revamped through policy and consumer demand http://ensia.com/voices/its-time-to-rethink-americas-corn-system/?viewAll=1
More evidence that antibiotics in animals are transferred to humans http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/28/us/study-shows-bacteria-moves-from-animals-to-humans.html
"Respect nature by leaving it alone?" No, "we learn respect through the great responsibility of using" via Dylan a KnowWildFood http://j.mp/YdgLbb and living in sync. Similarly, I woke up to nature and all kinds of life cycles when I moved to the country only cooking local & wild. My early blog posts circa 2006 resonate with this. And its still, a constant marvel..
Alice Waters on rebuilding Chez Panisse post fire – looks like a happy ending http://eater.com/archives/2013/03/27/alice-waters-on-the-silver-linings-of-rebuilding-after-the-chez-panisse-fire.php
Behind the junk/processed food industry – a team of marketing people and scientists working to addict the consumer.. Don’t know about Lunchables, but the same type of thing has been going on here. Nothing new, but a good read, and reminder of how our society’s eating habits have slowly gotten AFU.. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/24/magazine/the-extraordinary-science-of-junk-food.html?
Most people don’t need to be afraid of gluten, but by all means avoid cake and cookies (refined flours, sugar and bad fat) and cut down on bread, pasta with respect to fruit, veg and good protein/fat http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=most-people-shouldnt-eat-gluten-free
Food poisoning at Noma – yes, it can happen at the best restaurants even those who are more careful about quality than anyone and have preventative systems in place - a restaurateur’s worst nightmare. Happens everyday all the time and you don’t hear about it; in this case, it made a spectacular headline although it was hardly scandalous. I sympathize. http://world.time.com/2013/03/10/when-the-worlds-top-restaurant-serves-up-a-bug/
Cracking down on sodas with size – why it’s a good idea I say let people have their cake and soda too, but it’s ok that bad things are underlined as such, frowned upon and so heavily taxed like cigarettes http://www.foodpolitics.com/2013/03/daily-news-op-ed-bloombergs-soda-ban-should-be-only-the-beginning/
Food writing to tuck into – such a great list I’ve read many/most of these, all good reading. This is my favourite kind of book no doubt; I rarely pick up a cookbook these days, more often a fiction novel or something on medicinal plants. But nothing beats good food writing. Top notch is old school MFK Fisher, James Beard, Jacques Pepin or Ruth Reichl and Jeffrey Steingarden. Michael Ruhlman’s books were good too for a certain time, ‘the soul of a chef and etc’.. I also enjoyed The Perfectionist, and from the more recent batch: Heat, Frank Bruni’s Born Round, Blood, bones and butter, and Marcus Samuelson’s bio. Then there is all the fabulous foodwriting more focused on issues and food stories than egos – by Michael Pollan, Singer, Taras Grescoe, Rowan Jacobson, Sarah Elton.. That merits another list. http://www.abebooks.com/books/features/food-memoirs.shtml?cm_mmc=nl-_-nl-_-C130113-h00-memoirAM-131214TG-_-01cta&abersp=1
Thursday wine tastings at Toque 65$ for a series of bouchées with wines from a visiting producer http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Evenements.php
NYC hot new restaurants - Not that there isn’t enough to check out in Mtl
Then there’s Carbone, the Torissi team’s new ritzier spot http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/03/carbone_the_torrisi_teams_ritzy_new_italian_restaurant.php
And the Brooklyn scene http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/03/the_brooklyn_heatmap_where_to_eat_right_now_3.php
A fine-dining comeback, Ruth Reichl predicts
Blackstrap BBQ – a must try smokehouse in Verdun with brisket, chicken & ribs, all the classic sides with a twist http://voir.ca/voir-la-vie/gastronomie/restos/2013/02/21/blackstrap-bbq/
Bilan resumé de Montreal en Lumière 2013 avec Katherine Lune http://www.katerinerollet.com/en-vedette/bilan-et-resume-de-la-14-edition-de-montreal-en-lumiere/
Bits and Bites Feb 2013
The Horsemeat Ikea scandal, Mark Bittman comments - right on! Its not horse persay that is worrisome but the way alot of our food is produced and processed in the industrial system. Better to eat a horse steak from a good source than meatballs from a furniture store! http://www.theworld.org/2013/02/horsemeat-scandal-hits-furniture-giant-ikea/
Tripes & Caviar – a creative hipster pop-up turned resto in Verdun, apparently a welcome addition to the Mtl dining scene http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+Tripes+Caviar/8036284/story.html
Sugar is toxic: ‘It’s the sugar, folks’ http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/27/its-the-sugar-folks/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto
New York Foraged Food Restos – Wow, if all it takes is lichen or pine needles on your menu to qualify as authentic, maybe I should start rethinking how to describe Les Jardins Sauvages with conservatively >100 varieties of plants & mushrooms that we sell fresh, cook on our menu and process into an array of preserves. Without lichen or pine needles. I need to find a superlative or new term for 'lots of truly local and wild, sustainably foraged food'!? http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2013/02/new-york-restaurants-foraged-food.html
Granola goes upscale
Urban agriculture in Tokyo office buildings http://www.thecultureist.com/2013/02/18/urban-hydroponics-tokyo-office-buildings/
Hotel Herman and Montreal Cuisine, an article by Adam Gollner I haven't tried this restaurant but I'm all for local and 'feminine', as in soigné, moderate portions vegetables as present as meat and fat, not that this is new for Montreal http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/montreal-cuisine-lightens-up-but-can-we-still-get-foie-gras-poutine/article8824817/
Chefs’ dream destinations (in French)
Bocuse d’Or Culinary Olympics: France first, Denmark 2nd, Japan 3rd, Canada 9th http://www.goodfoodrevolution.com/bocuse-dor/
Jian Bing – a kind of N. Chinese egg-crepe ‘sandwich’ – looks good! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Sandwich+Club+Jian+bing+popular+import+from+China/7953751/story.html
Food & drink inspired by Chanel#5 As I get into making cosmetics with coco butter, almond oil, lemon balm lavender cayenne and etc. I do love the idea of going back and forth between these parallel universes in terms of knowledge and inspiration. But I like to keep them separate too, I love lavender on one side not as much on the other – citrus, coriander and anise go both ways. http://www.tv5.org/cms/chaine-francophone/programmes/p-80-s2-z73-lg0-PAPILLES.htm?prg_id=476493&
Hottest NYC restaurants Can hardly keep up in Montreal, forget about New York http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/02/eater_heat_map_3.php
Food movies for a winter night - most oldies now, loved them all http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/restaurants/feast+foodie+movies+some+actually+make/7906995/story.html
Lefse – interesting! Kind of like gnocchi prep but cooked like pancakes, kind of like roesti or latkes then, but not quite. Every country and culture has a variation on so many basic things the same but different, be it flatbread, mirepoix, custard, meat stew, ketchup.. I love that!
Bits and Bites Jan 2013
3 Sweet/Pastry shops to try in Montreal http://fr.chatelaine.com/cuisine/gastronomie-cuisine/3-patissieres-dici/
5 Places to Eat in Little Italy via mayssamaha http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/blog/where-to-eat/5-places-to-eat-in-little-italy/
Sans gluten et le danger des faux allergies – bien dit! http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/25/01-4614933-le-vrai-et-surtout-le-faux-sur-le-gluten.php
Quinoa, the back story – important to think about where all your food comes from, not just meat say http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2013/jan/16/vegans-stomach-unpalatable-truth-quinoa
Tendances Culinaires selon 8 chefs de Mtl www.casatv.ca/a-table/tendances-culinaires-2013-selon-8-chefs/
Think about it! Food waste is astronomical and nonsensical.. There have been many articles about this recently, I chose this one. So, Yes we all have to waste less in the home and restaurant; and yes more importantly, we need to change the industrial food system, which operates askew creating lots of mal-distributed cheap food that sits in the field or ends up in the supermarket bin. I think that comes down to forgetting about abundant cheap (and pretty) food, more about valuing food, following the seasons, staying close to home. If you grow your own or buy local from a small producer and get what you get given what is harvested - taking big/small/oblong, you will be less inclined to waste, you put up. With a direct link between producer and consumer, things don’t get so screwed up.. Food shouldn’t be a commodity, controlled by corporations or the stock market.. Developing countries would be better off concentrating on feeding themselves as opposed to participating in a global economy that just nails them in the end so that Westerners can have cheap food to throw out. www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2013/jan/10/half-world-food-waste
Dommage que ‘le foodie culture’ n’inspire pas plus; c’est vrai que c’est plus important de cuisiner point! simplement mais pour vrai, sans nécessairement savoir c’est quoi une mandoline ou une truffe http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/09/01-4609545-cuisiner-sur-terre.php
A new chapter in Montreal and ‘Canadian cuisine’ – in any case, a well written article by Adam Gollner http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/wheres-some-of-the-best-qubcois-food-in-montreal-you-might-be-surprised/article7044220/
To try: Gluten free gnocchi
The ten hottest restaurants ‘in the world’ now http://blog.zagat.com/2013/01/the-10-hottest-restaurants-in-world.html#.UOVXC-vcacg.twitter
Important Foodie reading – the big stuff people in the food world aren’t talking about I love the spirit of this post, I think a lot of it rings true.. I don’t agree with some of the 20 things, but yes enough with the celebrity chefs when most of your meals are cooked by illegal immigrants; yes the food world has been hijacked by the media, clubs and charlatans; yes we need to rethink the tipping system; and yes nostalgia props up a lot of bad food. Not sure about foie gras or if I’m willing to say all wine tastes the same, but it doesn’t need to be so complicated either, like sustainable/good food doesn’t have to be a white/upper class thing. http://firstwefeast.com/eat/20-things-everyone-thinks-about-the-food-world-but-nobody-will-say/s/29176/
A call for renewed resolve (and patience) to fix our food problem http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/01/01/fixing-our-food-problem
The history of peanut butter http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/books/2012/11/a-chunky-history-of-peanut-butter.html
Les tables et quartiers Mtl - Montreal restaurant scene alive more and more in a neighbourhood nearyou http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/02/01-4607906-les-tables-et-leurs-quartiers.php
Bits and Bites December 2012
Veronique Rivest – sommelière de Québec, meilleure des Amériques http://www.larvf.com/,veronique-rivest-meilleure-sommeliere-des-ameriques,10337,4267356.asp
‘Dietary Seatbelts’ perhaps necessary because policy as is only “helps big producers make as much money as they can regardless of the consequences.” to our health, environment, society.. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/12/18/dietary-seat-belts/?ref=markbittman
Cookbook pics by both the French and English Mtl food book store owners http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Cookbook+store+owners+choose+their+favourites/7584300/story.html
My garden includes weeds. Don’t understand why you wouldn’t want a somewhat natural landscape.. http://www.newjerseynewsroom.com/state/lawn-or-meadow-it-takes-a-jersey-judge-to-reaffirm-that-one-mans-weed-is-another-mans-wildflower
Top Montreal Restaurants for 2012 selon Lesley Chesterman http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Fine+Dining+Lesley+Chesterman+restaurants+2012/7702501/story.html?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter
Escargot Caviar Without having tasted it, don’t know if it’s more hype and trendy due to rarity and expense or just really good.. http://www.starchefs.com/cook/savory/product/escargot-caviar
Achats responsible http://www.recyc-quebec.gouv.qc.ca/client/fr/rubriques/liens.asp?idTypeLib=60 (move)
A Montreal ‘Best of’ list for 2012 by J.P. Tastet– restaurants and books.. http://mixeur.tv/actualite/best-of-2012
Now, Forager, a poor review of a what seems to be a potentially very interesting movie featuring wild mushrooms, promoting Slow Food http://www.eyeforfilm.co.uk/review/now-forager-2012-film-review-by-neil-mitchell
Montréal en Lumière 2013 : Feb.21st to March 3rd - Buenos Aires, Philly and Lac St-Jean http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Montr%C3%A9al+Lumi%C3%A8re+2013+Welcome+Buenos+Aires/7682735/story.html
France still la reference? Or losing its bearings as the rest of the world catches up to the old France.. A case of the student surpassing the teacher or just normalization with globalization - they become more like us and us more like them. Whether there is a steeper curve of creativity/evolution or not, not sure about better value here being something to covet, at what cost.. The truth is we should be charging more here for better (non-industrial) food grown and prepared by (better paid) farmers and cooks. http://www.france-amerique.com/articles/2012/12/05/le_declin_conteste_de_la_cuisine_francaise.html
Love this art! A tribute to cooks behind the scene - artist Quang-Ho http://recettesbonetblanc.com/lart-culinaire/
Saving oysters.. Yes please! What I thought was one of our last yummy sustainable choices. Hope this doesn’t hit the Atlantic and my preferred east coast oysters, but that would be wishful thinking.. http://civileats.com/2012/12/03/troubled-waters-farmers-and-scientists-work-together-to-save-oysters/#more-15884
Chef plagiarism – tricky to pinpoint; everyone’s constantly influenced by everyone before them and around, the zeitgeist.. Directly copying is another story. For sure, the new world with internet makes it even more complicated, as well as easier to copy. I remember a time when ideas and references were less accessible - you had to work hard to tap into what others were doing, techniques weren’t spelled out, you were forced to source from within or be a product of your strict surroundings. Regardless, I don’t understand a chef who needs to copy! There is inspiration everywhere yes, but you have to have a lot inside - drive and ideas and everything else to make it in this métier, so by the time you’re making menus, normally you have something real and personal going on, of course built partly on all those influences, the main ones you should be able to note, never shy to note a new one. http://eater.com/archives/2012/12/03/attributing-sources.php
Black Ivory coffee made from elephant dung – the priciest/hottest coffee now after the weasel dung one.. Whatever. http://www.nbcnews.com/travel/itineraries/elephant-dung-coffee-exotic-brew-50-pop-1C7490082
Femmes engagées à nourrir le Québec : a new book out (more historical than cookbook) that honours all kinds of women and their work in the Que food realm, including me ?! http://www.katerinerollet.com/medias/femmes-engagees-a-nourrir-le-quebec/
Bits & Bites November 2012
Beloved Bubbles - A list to work through over the holiday season, ha.. www.montrealgazette.com/life/2012+bubbly+guidefor+those+special+moments/7621387/story.html
Munchies - Dave McMillan hits a few of his favourite Mtl spots, fun little video, love that Honey Martins is on the agenda http://www.vice.com/en_ca/munchies/munchies-joe-beef
About refrigeration and how it has changed our food http://www.cabinetmagazine.org/issues/47/twilley.php
Cookbook picks for 2012 (Rulman) http://ruhlman.com/2012/11/cookbook-picks-for-2012/
Foodie activity in Ahuntsic to accompany the fab St-Urbain..
Pastaga Canadian Monday events starting Dec. 3rd with Marc Lépine (Atelier, Ottawa) as guest chef http://willtravelforfood.com/category/montreal-restaurants-events/restaurant-reviews-montreal/
Industrial meat and feedlots bad, we know.. What it does to the workers, communities, the environment, but still people keep buying the shit because it’s cheap. Which means we will keep reading more dumb articles like this in hopes that they will make the smallest difference. Eat/Buy less meat all-round, yes! But a smaller quantity of better meat is another thing entirely. I wish they would all stop equating industrial meat with real meat raised from small producers who take care, mixing the issues.. http://www.newint.org/blog/2012/11/20/factory-farms-are-new-sweatshops/
« La vie ne peut devenir la propriété d’entreprises » Vandana Shiva est physicienne et docteur en philosophie. Pour lutter contre la privatisation des semences agricoles, pour la liberté et la dignité des paysans elle a fondée l’association Navdanya. So crazy that it takes a fight to share seeds and grow vegetables, to control what we eat.. http://kaizen-magazine.com/vandana-shiva/ (in French)
Slow Food - what it’s really about, and how it is and can make a difference. Inspiring, and empowering whether you’re starting to care about your food and the global system, or you’re a desperate, disillusioned diehard like me. This gives me hope and makes me want to do more, all over again.. Please read. http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/eat-pray-love/article4076820.ece
Interview with Ruch Reichl about her food writing heros.. I always love what she has to say, striking chords without fail, usually learn something new too.. http://www.salon.com/2012/11/19/weve_become_a_food_culture/
Pork this way just does not make sense; major overhaul in order. I want to support local producers but they are all industrial and care more about big buyers or export, which is why I rarely have pork on my menu. When I do, it is Gaspor. Or at least Porc Meilleur, for our cooked products or charcturie.. http://affaires.lapresse.ca/economie/quebec/201211/15/01-4594007-la-production-porcine-est-en-crise.php
Raymond Blanc forced to take liver off his menu.. Apparently, there are overzealous and misguided food inspectors across the pond too! All to make people more afraid of food, and the wrong food to boot.. I'd rather take my chances with pink 'real' meat from a respectable restaurant than with the ubiquitous sterile, industrial pseudo food the inspectors don't mind that is slowly making everyone sick. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/nov/13/raymond-blanc-lambs-liver-food-poisoning
Guy Fieri’s takedown review – what happens when you’re all over the place and opening restaurants - like all it takes is a name, tatoos and some lingo www.nytimes.com/2012/11/14/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-guys-american-kitchen-bar-in-times-square.html
Darren Bergeron takes the Gold Medal plates for Québec, Canada finals in February. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Eight+Montreal+chefs+battle+Gold+Medal+Plates/7541584/story.html
The Fruit Hunters – in theatres November 23rd newyork.grubstreet.com/2012/11/the-fruit-hunters-trailer-bill-pullman.html
Wine for Mushrooms It seems like this writer has truffle in mind, but most wild mushrooms have enough character to match these wines, especially if served with meat. I cook a lot of wild mushrooms however and find that with my style of cooking, a softer red usually works best, ie. not too astringent, medium bodied, with fruit to complement the earthiness.. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/wine/10-red-wines-that-are-magic-with-mushrooms/article5039832/
Fondue and tabletop communal cooking trending?? Not against the return of fondue (not that it ever left the home in Que), and check out Heston’s recipe – to me it seems spot on, including the pickles as an accompaniment.. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2012/nov/09/double-dip-return-of-the-fondue
Silk soymilk – another food monopoly; consolidation like in the dairy, beef and poultry industries not good for farmers, food quality or the environment.. Nor for anyone except these big companies! http://grist.org/food/smooth-as-silk-how-big-brands-milk-small-farmers-for-all-theyre-worth/
Taste Canada Food Writing Award Winners for 2012
Stuffing, Dressing whatever, we love it, a worthy side dish. Personally, I’m into the classic thing with bread and celery and sage, can’t help it. After so many years of doing everything else.. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/07/dining/stuffing-deserves-more-days-on-the-table.html
SAT Food Lab turns one, looking back and ahead.. No doubt, a definite Montreal destination, so fresh and innovative and real, ashamed I haven’t been yet.. I feel for this project in any case, in that I know what its like to put elaborate menus out of a rustic/low budget kitchen with big spirit following a theme in flux.. http://www.endlessbanquet.blogspot.ca/2012/11/babys-turning-one.html?m=1
Le meilleur bio et hommage à Normand Laprise parmi autant depuis son lancement de livre http://www.lapresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/201211/02/01-4589615-normand-laprise-le-grand-artisan.php
Sugar everywhere, beware. Added sugar is big business, no wonder the ‘innocuous’ hidden villain took over while everyone was worried about fat.. But really, like with everything, if you eat and cook real food, you don’t need to worry about adding a little sugar, or even better, honey or maple syrup here and there.. http://www.foodpolitics.com/2012/11/mother-jones-how-the-industry-minimized-and-minimizes-the-health-effects-of-sugars/
Interview with Toqué team after book launch www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Toqué+cookbook+Chowing+down+with+Normand+Laprise/7452457/story.html
Normand Laprise, personnalité de la semaine, chef de l’année – on parle de son livre, sa vision, son parcours.. http://www.lapresse.ca/actualites/regional/personnalites-la-presse/201210/29/01-4588080-normand-laprise.php
About wine and context: Bill, the non-snob of a somellier has another real life tidbit to share http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Bill+Zacharkiw+Context+counts+when+tasting/7456896/story.html
Good reasons to buy local AND fair-trade They go hand in hand when you live in a Nordic country and care about quality, sustainability and community, and like an occasional imported treat. Buy local what can be had locally and favour that. But coffee, tea, bananas and etc. don’t grow here, and some countries can make a living off of it with fair trade. Why not nourish a global economy that makes sense alongside the local. Fair-trade is necessary when it comes to dealing far from the source, especially in underdeveloped countries where the laws are sketchy and exploitation is common. http://www.visualnews.com/2011/10/12/going-local-vs-fair-trade-what-food-buy-is-better/
Grant Achatz’s note to self ://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=50133217n
Avoiding wheat is not necessarily the solution to better health, unless you have celiac disease http://www.wellnessletter.com/ucberkeley/feature/wheatophobia-will-avoiding-wheat-really-improve-your-health/#
Marc Vetri shares advice to young cooks – bang on! http://www.huffingtonpost.com/marc-vetri/advice-young-chefs_b_1939356.html
Cooks Illustrated, Christopher Kimball ‘Cooking isn’t creative and it isn’t easy..’ He should be revered for focusing on the basics - a great mag for beginners, or anyone wanting to get to the bottom of a recipe. I bought it all the time as a young cook.
Foods to think twice about.. Most of these are givens for anyone connected to their food supply; I’m only reluctant to discourage Que apples for some ‘organic’ import. Again, it’s about choosing your producer (or supplier that isn’t more than a degree of separation away), the one who takes care with his mix of varieties and extra work to minimize inputs.. http://www.rodale.com/7-foods-you-should-never-eat?
Toqué’s book comes out Oct. 24th http://vimeo.com/43546384
A Top 50 Restaurant list not too many people agree with in Montreal.. http://www2.macleans.ca/2012/09/27/50-best-restaurants-in-canada/
And after the roohaha, a ‘make peace’ explanation on why best lists are problematic… http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/why-best-restaurant-lists-are-necessary---but-silly/article4583208/
With that in mind.. Michelin Guide New York 2012 stars are out. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2012/10/michelin_guide.php
Just leave your gnudi to sit in flour for a couple of days – voila seamless ravioli! Kitchen progress is funny stuff. blog.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2012/09/buried-in-sand.html
A cattle farmer’s story http://www.ajc.com/news/news/the-upstart-cattleman/nSHHK/
‘C'est sûr qu'on peut produire plus et mieux’ avec nos terres agricoles au Québec – c’est le temps que le MAPAQ s’implique aux enjeux importants.. Oui pour la diversité! http://www.lapresse.ca/actualites/201209/16/01-4574478-crise-alimentaire-imminente.php
Dans la rue taco party, the 9th annual ‘’De la rue aux étoiles’’ benefit event will be held on September 27th at the Montreal Science Centre where participating restaurants will make their fancy version of a taco. Tickets $125 ($100 receipt) 514.526.5222
Small farmers so essential to a healthy food system http://independentsciencenews.org/environment/america-becoming-a-land-without-farmers/print/
Eating meat/Food issues: stuff to chew on, many good links (French) http://www.mangersantebio.org/5707/alimentation-ethique-les-consequences-environnementales-dune-diete-carnee
Organic food isn’t necessarily proven more nutritious, (but it surely is when truly ‘organic’) and anyway, that isn’t even the point.. http://m.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/09/organic-food-isnt-more-nutritious-but-thats-not-the-point/261929/
More on that (yes, organic is better) http://www.ewg.org/agmag/2012/09/re-doubling-my-commitment-to-organic-food/
Reasons to buy organic -‘No pesticides and no antibiotics’ is good enough for me. I’ll let the science catch up on other health benefits.’ blog.ucsusa.org/reasons-to-buy-organic-let-us-count-the-ways/
Via Bittman, great list of links with more on the organic food (non)debate, food workers being underpaid, McDo’s first veg resto.. http://bittman.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/09/13/overdue-links/
Michael Stadlander at 400 coups in Mtl on the way to Cdn Chefs congress
Mtl Slowfood Conference Sept 22nd http://www.slowfoodmontreal.com/congres-mtl-2012/?utm_source=Slow+Food+Montreal&utm_campaign=c90a1ab149-Congres_2012&utm_medium=email
Trees for inspiration and good living, not to be chopped down
Pesticides in Wine – maybe something to worry about, not the sulfites.. Good read! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/zesty+little+vintage+with+just+hint+pesticide/7207820/story.html
Montreal Food truck scene first Friday of the month at the Parc Olympique
Charlie Trotter - About his restaurant closing, his legacy, all the ex employees miffed or humble and reverent..
Montreal Restaurant openings summer 2012 http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/les-nouveaux-restaurantscafes-montrealais-de-lete-2012/
Bits & Bites August 2012
Canadian Chef’s Congress in Nova Scotia September 17-18th http://thechronicleherald.ca/artslife/129118-chefs-show-off-their-talents
Martin Picard’s sugar shack (Pied de Cochon) open for apple season
Antibiotics and Obesity - One more reason to be worried about prevalent food system blog.fooducate.com/2012/08/25/the-obesity-antibiotics-connection/
An old cartoon about healthy eating – simplistic and dated maybe, but not so far off the mark I don’t think – especially if all was produced naturally like back then.. Imagine the only carbohydrate worries being an excess of beans and corn! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=58eFNxlLr5s
Celebrate the farmer – yes! opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/08/21/celebrate-the-farmer/
Tapas gone wrong. Small plates can be fun, but.. It’s true that sometimes, they don’t hit the spot, and sometimes sharing a bunch of plates not meant for sharing is messy and unsatisfying. dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/08/21/the-big-problem-with-small-plates/
Le Murphy - Ian Perrault revamps La Moulerie in Outremont www.gourmet-galopin.com/le-murphy/
Some essential Julia Child: quotes, perspective, books etc. Always interesting and inspiring, I don't tire of this kind of nostalgia. http://www.oregonlive.com/foodday/index.ssf/2012/08/small_bites_the_julia_child_ed.html
An inspiring interview – follow through and read it or just the intro.. It’s true that teaching kids/people how to feed themselves/about the food system and how things grow is as, or more important than calculus! http://www.culinate.com/newsletter/newsletter_2012/N20120822?noedit=true
Stop trying to control your oven, get to know it! Love this, because a key in becoming a seasoned cook is judging temperature and mastering your stove. The latest high tech models and 'smart' ovens supposedly make this unnecessary but being a dinosaur, I wouldn't trust one if I could afford it. http://mobile.slate.com/articles/life/food/2012/08/bake_at_350_degrees_oven_temperature_is_uncontrollable_and_we_should_stop_trying_to_micromanage_it_.html
Chef Michael Stadtländer at Les 400 coups pre Canadian Chefs Congress - Le projet autobus par The Northern Light à Montréal le 11 Sept. Menu quatre services 60$ par personne, accord vins 30$.. About the tour : http://blogs.ottawacitizen.com/2012/08/08/famed-chef-michael-stadtlander-coming-to-cook-at-fraser-cafe/
Putting up summer’s bounty another way – an ancient idea, shrubs - somewhere between a syrup and a drinking vinegar based on fruit & herbs, wherever you want to take it.. http://www.culinate.com/articles/features/shrub_love
Omnivore food fest in Montreal Aug.17-20 http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Omnivore+food+festival+goes+global+with+stop+Montreal+this+weekend/7089180/story.html
Books I want to read! Some interesting looking picks if you’re into food writing and sustainable food.. http://grist.org/food/cant-miss-summer-reading-for-sustainable-food-fans/
Dans le Noir NYC - Pretty amusing replay of a dinner in the dark.. Makes me wonder, is O’Noir Mtl still in operation? I was never that curious about eating in the dark. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2012/08/dans_le_noir_3.php
Latest MTL guide according to Dave & Fred (Joe Beef) http://www.gq.com/food-travel/restaurants-and-bars/201208/chefs-frederic-morin-and-david-mcmillan-montreal-guide-short-order
A thoughtful piece on cooking and beans http://www.culinate.com/mix/dinner_guest/full_of_beans
Bits and Bites July/June 2012
Montreal’s blossoming food truck scene (only during festival season for now..) http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/growing+street+food+scene+city+mobile+dining+scene+shifting+into+overdriveas+number+roadside+trailers/6993567/story.html
Eleven Madison Park takes a new turn and twist Despite peak popularity in foodiedom, they are changing the format, taking it more high end and theatrical, to mixed reviews. I don’t generally get into reading comments from who knows who, but in this case, yes. It just goes to show how different everyone is.. There is room for all kinds of restaurants if they are true and well done, especially in NYC. www.nytimes.com/2012/07/28/dining/eleven-madison-park-is-changing-things-up.html
How to picnic at the Olympic games.. I sympathize and totally dig the creative thinking here, finding myself doing the same anytime I stray from home and want to eat&drink well in face of regulations and constraints, be it at the Olympic games, at a convention or camping.. Hence the olive oil in my purse.
On milk and why we drink the milk we do http://www.slate.com/articles/life/food/2012/07/why_don_t_we_drink_other_animals_milk_the_dairy_of_camels_buffalo_pigs_sheep_and_goats_.html
On the CA foie gras ban, a thoughtful article But still, perspective is needed. As I have often said before, this should be a non-issue in the big picture.. Given that it is a specialty item that few people eat a few times a year on tradition amidst the loads of feedlot beef, industrial chicken, eggs, and sketchy foodstuffs that most people consume daily without a thought. http://m.theatlantic.com/national/archive/2012/07/has-californias-foie-gras-ban-gone-too-far/259809/
Some questioning and backlash is necessary in this era of throwing food facts around, be it in championing some new berry or dissing dairy and gluten – all on heresay and marketing, without sufficient evidence or research.. No matter how much I respect Mark Bittman, he’s bent.. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/culture-magazine/mark-bittmans-milk_b_1671505.html?utm_hp_ref=food
Marion Cunningham and Alice Waters, a conversation – fun reading if you know and respect these two new-world food icons.. RIP Marion. www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/A-Cooking-Kinship-Marion-Cunningham-and-Alice-2915480.php
Winneburger (Nouveau Palais) joins the controlled but burgeonning Montreal food truck scene, no doubt worth checking out! http://www.facebook.com/events/382759751779082/
We need dirt and the bio-diversity of micro-organisms that go along with it – more reason to embrace gardening and farm-fresh food! http://www.nytimes.com/2012/06/21/opinion/lets-add-a-little-dirt-to-our-diet.html
Ten essential cookbooks - happy to see the new generation embracing the classics! http://www.food52.com/blog/3777_first_kitchen_your_10_essential_cookbooks_and_why_they_still_matter
Special diets make it a challenge to entertain Yes, it’s quite annoying that so many people seem bent on taking the fun out of eating. When I’m convinced that simply avoiding industrial junk and favoring ‘real’ food and cooking is all most people need to not have to worry about the details.. http://mobile.nytimes.com/2012/07/01/fashion/rsvp-ps-no-gluten-fat-or-soy-please.xml
Umami, the fifth taste we all know and love; if you need it explained or not, good piece to read http://www.artofeating.com/umami.htm
Sustainable fish& seafood – Taras Gresco (author of Bottomfeeder, a must read btw, more relevant than ever) simply reminds readers of the main points to consider when serving up fish & seafood for your summer feasts. www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/a-canada-day-seafood-feast-from-the-bounty-of-our-own-national-waters/article4377902/
Super bugs from an (industrial) farm to you.. Cheap meat is just bad, people have to stop buying the stuff. Wish we didn’t need simplistic/silly info-graphs like this, but anything to get the message across I guess.. Because all the published articles, books, documentaries, activists and chefs haven’t had much of an impact. www.foodandtechconnect.com/site/2012/06/29/infographic-of-the-week-superbugs-from-farm-to-you/
Fruit and Veg; If you’re worried about pesticide residues, these are the ones to buy organic.. http://www.ewg.org/foodnews/list/
Some bizarre menus out there - young chef owners trying to be cool no doubt.. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2012/06/9_weird_menus_floating_around_nyc.php
A call for a quality local food truck scene from Normand Laprise`; No doubt, it’s coming.. http://blogues.lapresse.ca/avenirmtl/2012/06/18/normand-laprise-%C2%ABosons-la-cuisine-de-rue-autrement-%C2%BB/
36 hrs in Montreal - a NYTimes article with a different take: variety and bargains on the food front and art, shopping, bars.. http://travel.nytimes.com/2012/06/17/travel/36-hours-in-montreal.html
Do’s and Don’ts in the food writing business from a sassy food writer shamelessly promoting her new book.. http://www.bonappetit.com/blogsandforums/blogs/badaily/2012/06/ten-things-you-should-know-abo.html
Montreal Restaurant lists – here’s another one among many, not the most up to date, but certainly more so than my own, pretty basic, comprehensive.. http://pierre-bellerose.tourisme-montreal.org/2012/06/mes-30-restaurants-preferes-de-montreal-version-2012/
Acheter Local – tellement de bonnes raisons pour, mais ce n’est pas encore toujours une priorité pour les Québécois qui sont conditionné de regarder le prix avant la qualité, l’environnent etc.. http://blogues.journaldemontreal.com/benoitgirouard/actualites/lachat-localquossa-donne/#.T9X26O9X9sc.facebook
Previews from the new Maison Boulud in the Ritz http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/maison-boulud-et-ses-artichauts-croustillants-aioli-au-nipitella/
On playing with other cultures’ food in modern cuisine - an interesting, thought provoking dialogue between two ‘chinamen’ on a trend that isn’t going away in this global reality http://www.gilttaste.com/stories/5367-is-it-fair-for-chefs-to-cook-other-cultures-foods
Plus de ‘food-trucks’ à Montréal ici et là – vive l’été! http://voir.ca/voir-la-vie/gastronomie/2012/06/07/vive-lete-nourrir-la-rue/
Clio, Bravo 15 yrs in the restaurant business on the high end, or on any end for that matter, is worthy of reconnaissance.. True to memory, this is a menu to make one dizzy, but no doubt delivers..
Transition to sustainable agriculture key to global food security, UN
(via Mindful Table): http://www.commondreams.org/headline/2012/05/30-0#.T8bIESGVNac.facebook
Bits and Bites
The future of food Depressing. Maybe I'm a romantic, but the further we stray from 'real food', the sadder our sort. http://www2.macleans.ca/2012/04/20/tomorrows-food/
My François des Bois wins the Renaud Cyr, at the culinary chef/producer Oscars of Quebec; for being a pioneer - after a lifetime of picking and 25 years of eking out a living in the market of wild greens and mushrooms, introducing them to chefs and the general public, he certainly deserves the recognition.. http://www.hrimag.com/spip.php?article6631
A film with Charest Champlain of Bistro à Champlain, Quebec’s larger than life wine aficionado film Champlain
A food truck scene in Montreal this summer – a start!
Top 100 world restaurant list shuns Montreal/Canada, who cares
Six essays on the Ethics of Eating Meat – Very interesting, very important! http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2012/04/20/magazine/ethics-eating-meat.html
Dandelion tea to fight cancer http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/windsor/story/2012/04/20/wdr-dandelion-tea-research-grant.html
Revolution culinaire à Terre Neuve http://fr.canoe.ca/artdevivre/cuisine/article1/2011/09/16/18695356-24h.html
Veganism is not/ should not be an easy choice http://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2012/04/17/is-veganism-good-for-everyone/a-choice-with-definite-risks
Big Ag farming does not work – nature rules; when will we learn that we have to work with nature and not against it.. Smallish, diversified, organic farms (and wild) is the only way to go.. http://e360.yale.edu/feature/the_folly_of_big_agriculture_why_nature_always_wins/2514/
Pink Slime – not a bad idea when dealing in industrial meat & derived products, but really we shouldn’t need/want this. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/04/03/the-pink-menace/?ref=opinion
On Fake meat http://www.nytimes.com/2012/03/11/opinion/sunday/finally-fake-chicken-worth-eating.html?_r=2&hp Not against it, but me, not so in. Why can’t we just eat less, better humanely raised meat? And more real food in general; there has to be a way.
Worried about all the plastic wrap in the modern kitchen? www.chow.com/food-news/107898/cooking-sous-vide-in-plasticis-it-safe/ Certainly worse for the environment than for us.
The Wonderbag – an eco slow-cooker and lifesaver in the developing world, cool http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2012/mar/09/can-slow-cooking-change-lives
No more stars for LA Times restaurant reviews – makes sense http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2012/03/stars-are-out-at-least-for-restaurant-reviews.html
Interview with Anne Sophie Pic – top French chef http://www.lepoint.fr/gastronomie/anne-sophie-pic-les-hommes-sont-meilleurs-avec-des-femmes-en-cuisine-08-03-2012-1439176_82.php
Favourite quotes from the article:
Vous avez donc beaucoup douté au début ? Bien sûr ! Ça m'a empêchée d'avancer. J'étais inquiète à l'idée de pouvoir commettre des erreurs. J'avais peur de ne pas être digne de l'héritage laissé par mon grand-père et mon père. Ça m'a inhibée pendant longtemps. C'est comme si j'avais l'impression de ne rien connaître. Ce qui a été une faiblesse est désormais devenu une force. La cuisine est une question de maturité. Elle évolue sans cesse. Il faut être en éveil en permanence, se remettre en permanence en question.
Vous essayez de féminiser votre brigade ? Les hommes sont meilleurs avec des femmes en cuisine. Ils font plus attention à ce qu'ils disent. La complémentarité est vraiment très intéressante.
Japanese hot spots in Montreal that aren’t about sushi – to try! (in French)
15 Femmes Chefs – a new cookbook out on female Que chefs
Pied de Cochon maple cookbook launch at La Cabane PDC to much fanfare
Overview, photos and JG interview http://cabanepdc.tumblr.com/
First article out in English http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/trends/trends-features/shareTweet/article2352911/
Inferno – a new restaurant in Little Italy to check out
Following recipes or not http://www.eatyourbooks.com/community/cree-le-favour
This article resonated with me because I approach recipes in this way and have a similar dishwashing-recipe following boyfriend. I have always had a love/hate sort of relationship with ‘recipes’; the spelled out version bothers me, but of course I’ve relied on them too.. And still, I wrestle with the importance of writing things down or following a new baking recipe to a tee (which I never do) as opposed to just going with the flow with uneven results. (Until I write my own article, this girl says a lot of it probably better).
Why Tibetans like yak (meat) – Great article! http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/22/dining/momos-tibetans-forbidden-special-treat.html
Bits and Bites Feb 2012
March 5th, Kate & Julio (Tuck Shop) cook up a storm at the Nouveau Palais – A brilliant concept headed by Gita Seaton, chef owner at Le Nouveau Palais, who opens her kitchen to line-cooks the first Monday of every month for a 30$ menu highlighting the guest chefs cuisine in a convivial setting http://mixeur.tv/actualite/cookies-unite
Le Sinclair, the makeover in the Sulpice hotel, is a new Montreal restaurant to visit! To rediscover Stelio’s cuisine, or because M.C. Lortie (and Alan Richman ) say so.. I am listening. If he has his way despite a hotel setting, there is no doubt that he is in the tops when it comes to flavour & finesse without excessive portions, protein and fat, nor too much trampoline - my style of food. http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/restaurants/201202/16/01-4496673-le-s-est-mort-vive-le-sinclair.php
Seaweed – a biofuel solution Ok not the end-all, but promising among others if you can get past the GMO’s? http://www.canadafreepress.com/index.php/article/44272
Gordon Ramsay and Laurier BBQ break up, so what http://www.montrealgazette.com/news/Laurier+cuts+ties+with+star+chef/6159135/story.html
Background on Belgian Cuisine for Montreal Highlights festival starting Feb 15th http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/201202/10/01-4494738-le-charme-discret-de-la-cuisine-belge.php?utm_categorieinterne=trafficdrivers&utm_contenuinterne=cyberpresse_B4_vivre_452499_section_POS2
Spots left http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/201202/10/01-4494741-montreal-en-lumiere-les-choix-deve-dumas.php?utm_categorieinterne=trafficdrivers&utm_contenuinterne=cyberpresse_vous_suggere_4494738_article_POS1
Barbara Lynch, a dynamic chef I admire (and not only because I did a stage in her kitchen), but there’s another reason to read the article – a mention of the ironic discrepancy between the worlds of cooks and those they serve.. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/11/us/11iht-currents11.html
China in your grocery basket more than you think – beware (in French).. It just does not make sense! So stop buying the cheap stuff – garlic, frozen strawberries, snow peas, mesclun, even apple juice!! http://www.cyberpresse.ca/international/201202/10/01-4494958-gros-volume-a-bas-prix-la-chine-dans-votre-assiette.php
Grumman tacos at the Faubourg! http://blogs.montrealgazette.com/2012/02/08/this-just-in-grumman-78-tacos-at-the-faubourg-food-court/
There’s something to be said for friendly service Of course professional and knowledgeable is important on the high end, but nothing beats a warm smile, real hospitality.. http://www.7x7.com/eat-drink/customer-service-san-francisco-dead
If you’re interested in Beer and on Twitter http://voir.ca/pierre-luc-gagnon/2012/02/09/top-10-des-comptes-twitter-quebecois-relies-a-la-biere/
Chocolate recipes – for Valentine’s http://www.food52.com/the_piglet/judgement/51
Factory pig farming http://motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2012/01/piglets-factory-farm-video - People need to ‘in your face’ know what’s behind their packaged supermarket meat if anything is ever going to change.
Piglet award –Joe Beef book wins, Alice Waters reluctant There is no doubt that Dave & Fred’s book deserves awards, and I know those boys know how to cook and have a reverence for good ingredients even if they have their favourite trashy loves and they are true. But I agree with Alice that its sad that the epitome of cuisine, what’s hot seems to revolve around big portions of meat and fat, that processed foods as ingredients are cool. http://www.food52.com/the_piglet/judgement/51
Lufa farms, a year-round CSA and more – Urban agriculture in Montreal http://www.ediblecommunities.com/toronto/winter-2011/lufa-farms.htm
Quebec ice wine hurdles - we should be able to market our ice wine without such complications; obviously we need a new appellation. If there’s something that China shouldn’t take over, it’s this. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Quebec+icewine+Frozen+national+standard/6097295/story.html
The debate over the virtue of Natural Wines – Yes, making good ‘natural’ wine is trickier, but no doubt better. So if we encourage producers whose wine we like, than all the better! But personally, I have not snubbed conventional wines yet even if my food is clean. http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/529697/chapoutier-pours-scorn-on-natural-winemakers
Bits & Bites January 2012
5 à 7 Slow le 15 Février | Vins naturels au Pastaga, le nouveau restaurant de Martin Juneau, 17:30 - 19:00 Une soirée de dégustation de vins naturels au nouveau restaurant de Martin Juneau (3689 St-Laurent). A déguster avec bouchées :Oenopole, Glou, Wards & associés, La Face cachée de la pomme, La Q.V, Planvin et Rezin vous feront déguster chacun 3-4 cuvées naturelles. Pour réserver: http://www.eventbrite.com/event/2865734489/
Star butcher coming to Mtl north http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052970204616504577172490313584140.html
An excerpt from Paul Leibrandt doc, and a typical minute in a (high end) kitchen http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xicwqs_clip-a-matter-of-taste_lifestyle
Buy local! Ok, no matter how much putting up and freezing you do, it is hard to do without a few imported fruit and veg here in winter but it’s also easy to do with a lot less. When it comes to cukes, tomatoes, greens, there actually is good stuff available locally if you shop in the right places, and its about being ultra aware once the growing season starts when there is so much dumping of cheap imports hampering local farmers. It’s a mind set that doesn’t need to wait for summer. Check this out. http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10150582507585605
Scary stuff – Mosanto and their new mother pesticide plan to follow Round up, all to wreak more havoc http://motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2012/01/dows-new-gmo-seed-puts-us-agriculture-crossroads
Brown fat – naturally stored fat that burns other fat and keeps us warm; it seems that youth, leanness, exercise and the cold stimulate its production http://www.nytimes.com/2012/01/25/health/brown-fat-burns-ordinary-fat-study-finds.html?_r=1&hp
Honeybee problem becoming critical http://grist.org/food/2012-01-13-honey-bees-problem-nearing-a-critical-point/
Evidence for a Vegan diet http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2012/01/the-evidence-for-a-vegan-diet/251498/ However, I stand by a varied diet heavy on fruit, veg & grains, void of processed foods, but with a moderate amount of natural meat; there is no need for any kind of special diet or veganism - just choice ingredients as per the old fashioned way (local, organic), real food from mixed farms, cooked at home. It’s easier than a special diet, good for you and for the planet.
McDo’s producer campaign hard to swallow Because however ‘real’ their ingredients are, they are inevitably all industrial, mass produced - a whole different story from most other businesses and restaurants hitherto mentioning their producers http://www.adweek.com/adfreak/mcdonalds-tends-fields-ads-about-growers-137430
Big Organic in bed with Mosanto http://rickthehealthsleuth.blogspot.com/2011/01/whole-foods-sells-out-to-monsanto.html
Why it’s so hard to find good chicken, milk or eggs
Truffles, a hot commodity in decline, big black market http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JUVcxa-wGcE
Feedlot beef vs Grass-fed, see the difference http://politicsoftheplate.com/?p=1112
Bits and Bites: December-November 2011
Charlie Trotter closing iconic restaurant after 25 yrs http://www.suntimes.com/9725535-417/charlie-trotter-to-close-his-world-renowned-chicago-eatery.html
New York mag’s list of 101 best NYC restaurants updated http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/12/platt.php
Sam Sifton’s top ten new restos in 2011 www.nytimes.com/2011/12/28/dining/sam-siftons-top-10-new-restaurants-of-2011.html
Tendances culinaires de l’année: http://www.lemonde.fr/m/article/2011/12/23/snobismes-culinaires-de-l-annee_1621804_1575563.html
L’année de A à Z selon Marie Claude Lortie http://blogues.cyberpresse.ca/lortie/2012/01/01/lannee-gourmande-de-a-a-z/
Les cinq meilleurs nouveau restaurants à Montréal selon Katrine Rollet http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/5-meilleurs-nouveaux-restaurants-a-montreal-en-2011/
Macdonald’s farmwashing = false advertising Nothing makes me more mad than big companies corrupting terms like ‘farm to table’, ‘local’ or ‘sustainable’, ‘organic’, ‘artisanal’ and etc… http://www.grist.org/food/2011-12-19-mcdonalds-rings-in-2012-with-farmwashing
Anthony Bourdain's The Layover in Montreal - 24hrs of indulgence and sightseeing with JoeBeef, Martin Picard & co.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pXki2s0E_HM
Dreaming of vacation: top restaurants in the world http://www.wbpstars.com/top-60.html
Montreal resto and trend overview (in French) http://voir.ca/voir-la-vie/gastronomie/2011/12/22/bilan-2011-des-chefs-qui-bougent-qui-bougent/
L’Orignal team opens Le Gros Jambon in Griffintown http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Casual+Dining+Gros+Jambon/5868075/story.html
Culinary Promise, despite everything – same in Canada.. Well said by Ideas in food: http://blog.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2011/12/culinary-state-of-america.html
Quebecois vodka a prize winner - if you’re into vodka http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vins/autres-alcools/201110/11/01-4456139-pur-vodka-lune-des-meilleures-vodkas-au-monde.php
Stop thinking organic & sustainable farming methods can’t feed a growing world population, it’s simply not true! http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2011/12/organic-can-feed-the-world/249348/
Stelio at Sinclair in the St-Sulpice in Old Montreal, now open http://www.facebook.com/RestaurantSinclair
David Lebovitz’s cookbook list – I like – books that are more than cookbooks, that tell a story www.davidlebovitz.com/2011/12/best-favorite-cookbooks-of-2011/
And another holiday list of books about cooking http://www.nytimes.com/2011/12/04/books/review/cooking.html
True that Que restaurant liquor licence laws are screwy and in Ontario, makes more sense http://www.montrealgazette.com/alcohol+conundrum/5804655/story.html
Mushroom benefits Many jumping on the mushroom bandwagon for health benefits and natural msg.. Long ago turned on to mushrooms thanks to François’ foraging, but for me it was always about taste (and ie. the umami factor), all the medicinal/nutritional properties are just bonus! We’ve been using (and selling) various mushroom (and powders) forever, so don't mind that people are getting into it. http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/sante/nutrition/201112/01/01-4473592-les-champignons-louanges-pour-leurs-bienfaits-pour-la-sante.php?utm_categorieinterne=trafficdrivers&utm_contenuinterne=envoyer_cbp
Gluten allergies on the rise, and two Gluten-free Montreal restos
An optimistic view of the local food movement and the mix of different models at work http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/29/making-local-food-real/
Terre Madre with Slowfood Montreal - Dec.10th, a conference/potluck to mark the international Slowfood holiday http://www.slowfoodmontreal.com/2010/12/jour-yul-terra-madre/
Many Montreal restaurants do not recycle, absolutely pathetic but true.. And I think it's wierd not to compost. Granted that's easier in the country (but on the other hand, no one picks up my oil) and the eco-centre is far. We all have to do our bit, but it will always help if the municipality makes it convenient. http://www.montrealgazette.com/technology/dirty+secret+Montreal+restaurants/5776377/story.html
An interview with Tom Colicchio – good little tidbits for young cooks, like how Patience is key, that it takes 10 yrs of working hard to be a ‘chef’.. among other reflections on the world of food and his history. http://blogs.villagevoice.com/forkintheroad/2011/11/tom_colicchio_o_1.php
There is such a thing as good Turkey - With the holidays ahead, you might want to consider ditching the factory farmed turkey! Plan ahead, find a small, local farm that does things right and order a heritage (real) turkey.. As with factory farmed chicken, feedlot beef and all that crap, it is sketchy from A to Z, from the methods of breeding and raising these big fat turkeys so unnaturally fast and the inhumane close confines (which is why they have to cut off their beaks and load them with antibiotics), then there is the horrific ways of transport and slaughter. Stay clear of those bargain birds. http://www.ethicalocean.com/content/anatomy-genetically-modified-turkey
Ferme Morgan has wild turkeys available the first week of December.
On a more humorous turkey note, check out this video ‘Just put the f-ing turkey in the oven’ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=foA0MGUbYH0
I agree with the message here. But contrarily stand by the fact that there is such a thing as good Turkey, but no you don’t necessarily need to truss it or get all fancy or complicated..
Celebrity chef cooks his favourite pretentious foodie meal – I generally wince at digs at local & sustainable, but sadly, the way these terms are thrown around has become annoying in terms of marketing, so yes this is funny. But the thing is, when for real, it isn’t all bullshit! If you’re breaking your back growing/raising natural veg and meat, cooking and sourcing this way - for quality & taste, for heritage & community, for the environment, because it’s the way it should be, it should be noteworthy because it isn’t normal anymore. Ingredients with a pedigree, a direct link to the producer, organic labels are signs of quality and food ethics – both important to me as a consumer. What kills is that those who are full of shit talk have made it all meaningless and brought on the cynicism. So yes, have a laugh, but don’t forget about the real issues! This kind of thing only encourages chefs to keep sourcing the industrial system, importing cheap shit as opposed to supporting their local growers and artisans, alongside customers that don’t value the difference. That being said, nothing wrong with a good laugh.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMUDw4_e93Y&feature=share
Dairy farmer Michael Schmidt and his battle for raw milk; sign the Slowfood petition
‘Best Before’ dates on packages to be used as a guideline for peak quality – not an absolute expiration date. Take a sniff before chucking it out! http://www.grist.org/food/2011-11-18-use-by-dates-a-myth-that-needs-busting%22
Michelin leaves out Chicago restaurant Next – too complicated, their outside the box
Seasonal veg tempura I often like my veg straight up with a bit of olive oil and/or butter, s&p, but tempura is a good trick to pull out every now and again – it works with just about any veg (par-cook the tough ones) and everyone loves it! It’s my goto for harder-to-love wild veg like milkweed broccoli which has great flavour but is mushy after the necessary cooking.
Serve a dipping sauce if you want, but I don’t think it’s necessary.
Next New York Times dining critic is Pete Wells.. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/11/pete_wells_999_confirmed_as_new_times_critic.php
Torrisi branching out and doing history inspired menus – cool http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/11/torrisi_4.php
Bits and Bites
What's ahead in dining, 2012 latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2011/11/heres-whats-coming-in-2012-dining.html
Cuisine Canada Culinary Book Award Winners http://www.lib.uoguelph.ca/resources/archival_&_special_collections/the_collections/digital_collections/culinary/cuisine_canada/winners.html
We don't want Big Harry in our food basket - do something if you care about local food, fish & environment - Govt backed petrol industry setting up in the lower St-Lawrence - we are worried about all the wild marine greens and fish from there we are so lucky to have, and the livlihoods of our people. Learn more here, sign the petition at least. But it will take more media attention - so crazy that no one is talking about this.. http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/blog-journalessays/2011/11/10/trouble-in-the-lower-st-lawrence.html
More info in French http://www.coalitionsaintlaurent.ca/
Food links via Mark Bittman - on rats and Trader Joe's, lots of interesting stuff here.. http://bittman.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/04/faboo-food-links/
Obviously, you should just follow him. I feel like a chump for posting so many of his links, but out of the many I read in a day, his are often the most interesting, I have to pass them along..
Local food is not elitest, it is what should be'normal' http://markbittman.com/local-food-is-not-elitist-its-american
S.A.T. food lab - there’s something happening here.. I think this new concept is great. Food and art and community, a different sphere of culinary pursuits, bonus for Montrealers and passionate chefs who can operate outside the restaurant biz.. http://www.montrealmirror.com/wp/2011/10/27/high-art-high-food/
Odd Bits n' Bites Sunday Lunch Jennifer McLagan @ Grumman 78 in collaboration with Appetite for Books Sunday, Nov 20th 1pm; $45 for a 4 course lunch cooked by Jennifer McLagan at Grumman HQ http://grumman78.com/en/. To Purchase Tickets, call Appetite for Books at 514-369-2002
Gold medal plates Montreal - Gildas Meneu’s round-up (in French) http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/des-chefs-en-or/
An exhibit on Women in the Kitchen across history in Longueil: Le Chef ?...C'est Elle ! » est une incursion dans le monde des femmes en cuisine. Une invitation au voyage à travers la cuisine de nos mères et de nos grands-mères, ces chefs au féminin, qui ont hissé au firmament cette cuisine de femme. du 6 octobre 2011 au 17 février 2012, au Musée de la Femme
Eight foods to avoid, foie gras is not on the list.. Like I’ve been saying forever with respect to battery chicken and feedlot beef, industrial food in general, farmed salmon, fair trade coffee and chocolate, and picking one’s battles when it comes to foie gras.. But here is a nice little neat slideshow – an easy list of the worst culprits; maybe this works better than words. http://blogues.cyberpresse.ca/lortie/2011/10/19/8-aliments-a-interdire-avant-le-foie-gras/
My first (and 2nd) foie gras rant from way back when it first became fashionable to get all up in arms about foie gras..
Prizes thanks to Food Day Canada, for me! – a four day culinary tour of Nova Scotia for my lobster dish, weehoo! Thank you to The Taste of Nova Scotia! http://fooddaycanada.ca/the-taste-of-nova-scotia-lobster-award/ And I a beautiful bag from Roots came in the mail – my new portable office, all for my use of chickpeas – Thanks to Pulse Canada and their Healthy People-Healthy Healthy Planet award. http://fooddaycanada.ca/awards/the-healthy-people-healthy-planet-award/ You see, not only is Food day Canada a great event for celebrating local food allround, apparently it pays bonus to be a participating chef!
Sara Jenkins on life a year in - she says it like it is.. Starting again every day to deliver the same quality, with passion, creativity and energy, is an overt challenge. Easy and sweet in theory, difficult in practice. http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2011/10/one-year-after-opening-porsena-its-chef-shares-a-few-lessons/246663/
Persay’s 4 star review, Sam Sifton’s last as the NYTimes critic; I especially like the last line. http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/12/dining/reviews/per-se-nyc-restaurant-review.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1
A great article about Joe Beef (Dave Macmillan, Fred Morin and Alison Cunningham) and their book, the Art of Eating – impossible to not love them and Montreal
Food pairing trees based on the aromatic components present, dabbling in science – what François Chartier does with wine pairing. This is fascinating stuff, but you know what, all you have to do is cook and eat and drink and pay attention and all these flavour associations are instinctive. This tree did not show me anything I did not know. François Chartier has though with the odd chemical link that makes you try something you would never have thought of – rosemary with Alsace wine?
Forget about Wall Street, or even protesting – there are better investments http://www.grist.org/article/2011-09-30-as-the-99-percenters-gather-1-percent-could-make-a-difference
Michael Pollan answers common food questions - nothing groundbreaking if you know about food, but worth reading for anybody. He is so smart! http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2011/10/02/magazine/29mag-food-issue.html?src=tp#/pollan
Farm to Table Movement making a difference economically too Duh. And yay. http://www.entrepreneur.com/article/220357
New Book on Jean Talon Market hits stores Oct.4th: Marché Jean Talon, Recettes & Portraits by Susan Semenak http://lejournaldemontreal.canoe.ca/journaldemontreal/votrevie/saveurs/archives/2011/09/20110927-100701.html
Is Junk Food Really Cheaper? Not!! An excellent article by Bittman
Musical chairs on the Montreal resto scene (FR)
Menu cards at Romero in NYC – over the top precious/ridiculous.. But still, this is the kind of thing I want my waiters to be able to say off the cuff when the clients show interest or ask questions. Ha. Printing up cards is much easier if you’re not changing your menu every day, but it’s too much information for most people anyway, destination restaurant or not. And even if not gussied up with adjectives and too much fluff, the anatomy of an haute cuisine dish can sound silly/pretentious spelled out. It’s better to just have them eat and find it delicious without knowing the pedigree of every little ingredient and the thought process behind it. But it’s also nice when clients notice the extra input and wonder about it. When they see and value the difference between artisanal and industrial ingredients, when they see the work behind the food and understand they’re getting something special, even a deal, and like it, it’s definitely more rewarding for everyone. Especially when it doesn’t take cards. Not that there is anything wrong with it. I’m sure the foodies are in heaven at Romero.
What does commitment mean? A Shuna rant that hits so many marks – for aspiring cooks, a must read http://eggbeater.typepad.com/shuna/2011/09/what-does-being-held-accountable-mean-what-does-commitment-mean.html
Interview with Thomas Keller – always inspirational; although I found him even more so in his tougher early days.. http://www.kcet.org/shows/master_chef_thomas_keller_uncorked_a_socal_connected_special_presentation/thomas-keller-uncorked.html
To honour Joe Dressner (a well respected wine importer who passed), Gazette Wine critic Bill Zacharkiw shares his favourite post – humourous, pointed wine commentary http://www.datamantic.com/joedressner/?1778
Voir review of newish Old Montreal hotspot Bremner http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/bremner/
Elizabeth Gilbert on the creative process – I know this sounds flakey, but honestly, it is very good; worth the listen if you have ever toiled in the artistic domain.. Thanks Ideas in Food.
Celebrity chefs G9 summit - Yes, maybe a reality check is in order. Such a high fallutin’ affair with chefs wanting to change the world might seem silly.. But these are all chefs that have made/can make a difference.. Still, chefs really have the most impact in their local communities cooking, encouraging local farmers and artisans, feeding and making people happy day to day, which is where they should be.
Another take, with hope that haute cuisine can help build a sustainable food system
Sam Sifton leaves Dining Critic post for NYTimes
Good mousseux from Nova Scotia – very interesting! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Wine+Rethinking+hybrid+grape/5373084/story.html
Feature on Joe Beef, and Montreal’s beloved Dave McMillan and Fred Morin in Food & Wine
Gordon Ramsay’s Laurier BBQ chicken the same as supermarket battery chickens, yup, the same industrial chicken on most menus, in most households.. Because ‘free-range, grain-fed’ means nothing much in Quebec. I think this is a good article because I realize so many people don’t seem to know. Organic is a must when it comes to chicken, or from some local farmer you know is doing it right. A chicken is not supposed to cost 7$. http://penseravantdouvrirlabouche.com/2011/08/31/la-poule-aux-oeufs-dor/
Shark’s fin soup – the good side of Gordon Ramsay http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r65FgUYdBOc&feature=player_embedded
Oh Irene.. A hurricane or even the threat of one means a lot to fishermen..
Harold McGee and Michael Rulman have both been known to leave their stock out on the counter, to no ill effects.. (two highly knowledgable food experts in case you don't know them) My parents did it too, as does François' family. They do not throw out leftovers from a buffet either. And I fight with all of them. I am careful about proper food handling, bacteria and etc. But still all alive and healthy, there is no doubt that everyone could relax abit about bacteria with a few basic rules in mind - washing hands, clean cutting boards and towels to avoid cross contamination/properly reheating food. Bending the rules on bacteria and food safetyl
It’s Book Award Season:
Cuisine Canada short lists (winners announced Nov.7)
Details Magazine: Top ten Cookbooks of the year
Eating bugs to save the planet Ok, I’m all over the wild stuff, but I’m not there yet. Mainly because it seems like a lot of trouble, but maybe one day, why not? But I’ll wait til my customers have no problem with bunny and lamb testicles..
Forget about GMO’s and industrial ag for salvation
A better long term solution is building local sustainable farming communities..
Paying more for better quality, eating less crap.
Joe Beef gets 4 stars (in the Montreal Gazette) - If ever there was a good review, this is it. I haven't eaten there in years (how unhip am I) but I don't doubt they deserve it. So many years under the belt doing real food in numbers making people happy - always authentic, tasty and decadent yet quality driven.. Beating to their own drum, forward thinking, serious about wine too, and so truly Quebec/Montreal. Cheers to Dave, Fred and equipe!
A fisherman tries to figure out where all the mackerel have gone.. Shit, and I thought mackerel were sustainable.. There must be fishermen like this all over wondering what the f! is going on. For sure, over-fishing is the main cause, but.. In any case, our fish future is bleaker every day.
SAQ a barrier to 'natural' wines http://www.vinquebec.com/node/8736
C'mon, the worst that can happen is you don't like the wine. A stomach ache maybe instead of a headache from the sulfites? Not even. Everyone is so afraid of real food it drives me crazy. Given the industrial food system (90% of the population eating crap daily) and governmental/societal green light to everything ultra sanitized, sterile and denatured, it's not like I'm surprised.. But its AFU! Really!
On Eating Alone I guess I'm that sort of self-indulgent person - I enjoy making myself careful, sumptuous feasts regularly (often at 2am), my reward after a long day. And one of my best tasting menu meals was alone (at No.9 Park in Boston).
Food Irradiation - not necessarily a bad idea.. But still not necessary! In a traceable, non-industrial system. Ok maybe for certain things - dried spices that travel long distances; but I don't want to have to irradiate our tisane or dried mushrooms even if it would make the MAPAQ happy. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/07/26/irradiation-and-the-ick-factor/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto
Le Cirque's 'family tree' - cool idea; in Montreal, we could start by Toqué.. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/07/le_cirque_6.php
The better sort of pig - should be the only sort of pig!
Montreal's farmers' markets - For those of you stuck in the city, you can still profit from the local summer bounty
Celebrate Food Day/La Journée des Terroirs with chefs and food lovers across Canada on July 30th
What is Canada food day? A celebration of Canadian food and cooks, and eating local www.foodday.ca
Our menu at Les Jardins Sauvages
We thank the old world for the weeds they dropped off here, not complaining
Due to different nomenclature, I don't recognize many of the plants he mentions on paper, but no doubt I would in life. So many of the treasures we harvest come from seeds dropped from European settlers, remnants of their gardens; some settled in as wild and sporadic, others as invasive weeds. Think day lily! Which we use profusely.
Montreal's first taco truck Grumman 78, this innovative crew of cooks found a way to operate in Montreal - good for them and for us!
About the fish and seafood situation in Quebec (In French) - a series of articles about what stocks are healthy (and which aren't), and why it is so hard to get a piece of the catch..
Flavoured pearls/Everything caviar- Elbulli knock-offs hit the mainstream..
Is this something people want? I wonder. I’m all for many of the modernist cuisine techniques but spherification never won me over because the hydrocolloids mask flavour. Neat, but most of the time a chopped fresh tomato is better than tomato ‘caviar’.