soupnancy

Bits and Bites

What's ahead in dining, 2012  latimesblogs.latimes.com/dailydish/2011/11/heres-whats-coming-in-2012-dining.html

Cuisine Canada Culinary Book Award Winners  http://www.lib.uoguelph.ca/resources/archival_&_special_collections/the_collections/digital_collections/culinary/cuisine_canada/winners.html

We don't want Big Harry in our food basket - do something if you care about local food, fish & environment - Govt backed petrol industry setting up in the lower St-Lawrence - we are worried about all the wild marine greens and fish from there we are so lucky to have, and the livlihoods of our people.  Learn more here, sign the petition at least.  But it will take more media attention - so crazy that no one is talking about this..  http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/blog-journalessays/2011/11/10/trouble-in-the-lower-st-lawrence.html

More info in French  http://www.coalitionsaintlaurent.ca/

Food links via Mark Bittman - on rats and Trader Joe's, lots of interesting stuff here.. http://bittman.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/11/04/faboo-food-links/

Obviously, you should just follow him.  I feel like a chump for posting so many of his links, but out of the many I read in a day, his are often the most interesting, I have to pass them along..

Local food is not elitest, it is what should be'normal' http://markbittman.com/local-food-is-not-elitist-its-american

S.A.T. food lab - there’s something happening here..  I think this new concept is great.  Food and art and community, a different sphere of culinary pursuits, bonus for Montrealers and passionate chefs who can operate outside the restaurant biz.. http://www.montrealmirror.com/wp/2011/10/27/high-art-high-food/

Odd Bits n' Bites Sunday Lunch Jennifer McLagan @ Grumman 78 in collaboration with Appetite for Books Sunday, Nov 20th 1pm; $45 for a 4 course lunch cooked by Jennifer McLagan at Grumman HQ http://grumman78.com/en/.   To Purchase Tickets, call Appetite for Books at 514-369-2002

Gold medal plates Montreal - Gildas Meneu’s round-up (in French)  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/des-chefs-en-or/ 

Eight foods to avoid, foie gras is not on the list..  Like I’ve been saying forever with respect to battery chicken and feedlot beef, industrial food in general, farmed salmon, fair trade coffee and chocolate, and picking one’s battles when it comes to foie gras..  But here is a nice little neat slideshow – an easy list of the worst culprits; maybe this works better than words.  http://blogues.cyberpresse.ca/lortie/2011/10/19/8-aliments-a-interdire-avant-le-foie-gras/

My first (and 2nd) foie gras rant from way back when it first became fashionable to get all up in arms about foie gras..

 http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/blog-journalessays/2007/7/22/foie-gras.html

http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/blog-journalessays/2009/2/3/enough-about-foie-gras.html

Prizes thanks to Food Day Canada, for me! – a four day culinary tour of  Nova Scotia for my lobster dish, weehoo!  Thank you to The Taste of Nova Scotia! http://fooddaycanada.ca/the-taste-of-nova-scotia-lobster-award/    And I a beautiful bag from Roots came in the mail – my new portable office, all for my use of chickpeas – Thanks to Pulse Canada and their Healthy People-Healthy Healthy Planet award.  http://fooddaycanada.ca/awards/the-healthy-people-healthy-planet-award/  You see, not only is Food day Canada a great event for celebrating local food allround, apparently it pays bonus to be a participating chef!

Sara Jenkins on life a year in - she says it like it is.. Starting again every day to deliver the same quality, with passion, creativity and energy, is an overt challenge. Easy and sweet in theory, difficult in practice.  http://www.theatlantic.com/life/archive/2011/10/one-year-after-opening-porsena-its-chef-shares-a-few-lessons/246663/

Persay’s 4 star review, Sam Sifton’s last as the NYTimes critic;  I especially like the last line.  http://www.nytimes.com/2011/10/12/dining/reviews/per-se-nyc-restaurant-review.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1

A great article about Joe Beef (Dave Macmillan,  Fred Morin and Alison Cunningham) and their book, the Art of Eating – impossible to not love them and Montreal

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Beef+good+life/5513791/story.html

Food pairing trees based on the aromatic components present, dabbling in science – what François Chartier does with wine pairing.  This is fascinating stuff, but you know what, all you have to do is cook and eat and drink and pay attention and all these flavour associations are instinctive.  This tree did not show me anything I did not know.  François Chartier has though with the odd chemical link that makes you try something you would never have thought of – rosemary with Alsace wine?

http://www.foodpairing.com/en/the-science-behind/

Forget about Wall Street, or even protesting – there are better investments http://www.grist.org/article/2011-09-30-as-the-99-percenters-gather-1-percent-could-make-a-difference

 Michelin Stars NYC http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/10/michelin_guide_unleashed_three_stars_for_eleven_madison_park_brooklyn_fare.php

SAQ a barrier to 'natural' wines  http://www.vinquebec.com/node/8736

C'mon, the worst that can happen is you don't like the wine. A stomach ache maybe instead of a headache from the sulfites? Not even.  Everyone is so afraid of real food it drives me crazy.  Given the industrial food system (90% of the population eating crap daily) and governmental/societal green light to everything ultra sanitized, sterile and denatured, it's not like I'm surprised..  But its AFU! Really!

On Eating Alone  I guess I'm that sort of self-indulgent person - I enjoy making myself careful, sumptuous feasts regularly (often at 2am), my reward after a long day.  And one of my best tasting menu meals was alone (at No.9 Park in Boston).

http://www.denverpost.com/food/ci_18406550

Food Irradiation - not necessarily a bad idea..  But still not necessary! In a traceable, non-industrial system.  Ok maybe for certain things - dried spices that travel long distances; but I don't want to have to irradiate our tisane or dried mushrooms even if it would make the MAPAQ happy. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/07/26/irradiation-and-the-ick-factor/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto

Le Cirque's 'family tree' - cool idea; in Montreal, we could start by Toqué..  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/07/le_cirque_6.php

The better sort of pig - should be the only sort of pig! 

http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/07/19/a-better-sort-of-pig/?ref=opinion

Montreal's farmers' markets - For those of you stuck in the city, you can still profit from the local summer bounty

http://www.mindfultable.ca/2011/07/montreals-urban-farmers-markets/

Celebrate Food Day/La Journée des Terroirs with chefs and food lovers across Canada on July 30^th

What is Canada food day?  A celebration of Canadian food and cooks, and eating local www.foodday.ca

Our menu at Les Jardins Sauvages

http://jardinssauvages.com/index.php?nom=menu&res=m&m=23canada11en

Bits and Bites April 2011

Epic Meal time parody- for those of you who don't know, this makes fun of a couple of very popular Anglos Mtlers who make bacon heavy, meat laden, over the top dishes to eat, on the web..  Love this because I don't love them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8QYtfy7Qrk&feature=player_embedded

Meat empowerment  http://www.culinate.com/books/book_reviews/meat_books

A smart way to eat meat in Mtl

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Conscientious+carnivores/4675858/story.html?cid=TheGazetteFoodandWineNewsletter_May2011

Food raves – quelle bonne idée!  Especially the sans permit/excessive bullshit part.  Just adventurous eaters and passionate cooks communing to make small-batch economics work, like in the good old days.  http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/15/us/15rave.html

More Daniel Boulud openings in NYC – Boulud Sud, a restaurant-bar and an Epicerie  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/04/boulud_previews_latest_boulud_sud_before_may_opening.php

Spending on life’s little indulgences makes you happy - more than a car, house or big bank account.  And there’s a term to explain it - hedonistic adaptation.  I love it when any ‘research’ tells me I’m right.. 

http://www.chatelaine.com/en/article/26544--why-it-s-ok-to-splurge-on-life-s-little-indulgences

Big news!  Daniel Boulud coming to Mtl to take over the Ritz kitchen

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/French+chef+Boulud+open+Montreal+resto/4611219/story.html

http://www.cnw.ca/en/releases/archive/April2011/13/c3986.html

Chef memoirs : Grant Achatz’s Life on the Line and Gabrielle Hamilton’s Blood, Bones and Butter

http://ruhlman.com/2011/04/achatz-life-on-the-line.html

I’ve already talked about Blood Bones and Butter, which I also devoured. 

Like Michael Ruhlman says, Grant’s book is a whole other beast - less over the top passionate, revealing and gritty, but just as personal and engaging in his own style. He probably wrote less and was edited more.  His business partner is intricately involved; he actually makes him shine and brings quite a bit to the story.  I feel that Grant’s personality comes through in his accounts; no matter how devastating, they are always more orderly, fact and timeline driven.  I have to say I enjoyed this memoir equally.  He might deliver with less pizzazz than Gabrielle but that’s him; he can be overly young and cocky, but that’s him too.  He wouldn’t have gotten where he is otherwise.  His story is ultimately interesting, and the book is well written.

Top Chef Canada started Monday, April 11^th

Not that I will be tuning in on a regular basis, but I’m voting for the Quebecois from Lumiere of course..  Only because he seems to be head and shoulders above, the best cook  http://www.foodnetwork.ca/topchefcanada/photos/gallery.html?id=4360015#1

Anne Sophie Pic – World’s Best Female Chef

http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/french-chef-named-worlds-best-female-chef-2266307.html

Exciting new restaurants in Montreal:

Icehouse, Nick Hodge of Kitchenette’s latest outpost on Roy – fine tuned tex-mex in a casual setting http://www.montrealmirror.com/wp/2011/03/24/lone-star/

Les 400 coups, Patrice Demers and Marc André Jetté find their stride with their own place – finally a fine dining addition to the scene, as opposed to more heaping plates of decadent food  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Fine+Dining+Coups/4578915/story.html 

Le Filet - marine inspired, by the Chasse & Peche team, on Mount Royal   http://www.lefilet.ca/

Gorgeous food photography via Ideas in Food http://www.edandersonphoto.com/#a=0&at=0&mi=2&pt=1&pi=10000&s=11&p=1

Understanding pig and pork today.  Still important, years after the appearance of this article, even if Chipotle was motivated to encourage humanely raised meat. http://www.chipotle.com/Media/the_art_of_eating.pdf

M.Wells, with chef-owner Hugue Dufour (formerly of the Pied de Cochon in Montreal) getting attention in New York http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/06/dining/reviews/06rest.html

Kids should learn to cook 10 dishes from scratch – a school prerequisite http://www.culinate.com/articles/the_culinate_interview/mark_winne

Bits and Bites March 2011

What about Trotter?  Just what I was wondering.. 

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/30/dining/30trotter.html

Some important perspective on food spending; in Canada, I think it is just as ridiculously low at 9% because we don’t pay the real cost of food in the industrial system http://civileats.com/2011/03/29/mapping-global-food-spending-infographic/

Aphrodiasac science from University of Guelph, a glimpse

http://blogs.laweekly.com/squidink/2011/03/weird_science_saffron_ginseng_spices_up_your_sex_life.php#

Mario Batali’s Eat Italy soaring – wildly popular, now with an ambitious roof top addition; I don't understand but hey he's laughing http://ny.eater.com/places/eataly

Not sure Bacon will ever jump the shark  I love it as much as the next cook/eater but I have been trying to ignore it (or at least not focus on it) for years now..  I don’t want to be sick of it.  With smoked duck fat, I hardly need it so much. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/03/new_yorks_most_insane_new_bacon_dishes.php

Six things to feel good about on the food front; change is slow but there is hope http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/03/22/food-six-things-to-feel-good-about/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto

Congratulations to Chuck from Gardemanger for taking on Iron Chef Bobby Flay and winning!  With a lobster guedille, bloody Caesar, poutine and jerk lobster, hard to imagine, but whatever that means, good on him.. http://community.foodnetwork.ca/blogs/hostsinterviews/archive/2011/03/14/chuck-hughes-on-battling-bobby-flay-iron-chef-america.aspx

L’Alliance des Femmes Professionelles des Métiers de Bouche (AFPMB) has a website – sign up or read the journal ‘Pleine Vapeur’ http://www.afpmb.ca/Journal.aspx

Gilda Meneu’s handy recent restaurant round-up

http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/les-restos-de-la-semaine-3/

Quebec terroir products, a dated and generalist overview when you consider all the other little speciality producers breaking ground today, but still.. 

http://www.lactualite.com/culture/35-produits-pour-savourer-le-terroir-du-quebec

Modernist Cuisine – Michael Ruhlman gives a practical overview of this massive, cutting edge tome on cooking, focused on the latest techniques, exploring old and new in light of recent scientific understanding and modern chef’s creativity http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/09/dining/09modernist.html

A more biting critique with many good points amidst the griping

http://www.esquire.com/blogs/food-for-men/john-mariani-grant-achatz-031811

David Chang on future openings in TO

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/trends/trends-features/megachef-david-chang-dishes-on-why-hes-setting-up-shop-in-toronto/article1935590

The Welsh celebrate March 1^st, Saint David’s Day with Leeks; I love this photo..

http://leitesculinaria.com/68535/writings-saint-davids-day.html

Cooking with coconut oil, a vegan replacement for butter and like all saturated fats, not so bad for you after all

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/03/02/dining/02Appe.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1

Lesley Chesterman’s take on the Montreal Highlights Festival showcasing Women Chefs

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/High+Lights+Festival+year+women/4378806/story.html

A Great quote from Bill Zacharkiw’s wine column in the Gazette on female winemakers..

But is there a difference if a woman or a man makes pinot noir in one of the most demanding wine regions of the world? In what might be the quote of the week, she said: “Mothers probably make better pinot noir because we are more open to our kids not turning out exactly like we may want.”
Read more: http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/High+Lights+Festival+Women+bring+subtlety+World+wineries/4379025/story.html#ixzz1GB4Jn2o9

Bits and Bites February 2011

Montreal en Lumiere: Anne Sophie Pic at Toque - a  big hit

http://blogues.cyberpresse.ca/lortie/2011/02/19/montreal-en-lumiere-un-fort-joli-debut/

http://blogues.cyberpresse.ca/lortie/2011/02/20/un-festin-de-photos/?utm_categorieinterne=trafficdrivers&utm_contenuinterne=envoyer_blogues

Martin Juneau of Montreal’s Newtown #1 at Canadian Culinary Olympics following his Quebec Gold Medal Plates win

http://jameschatto.com/2011/02/the-canadian-culinary-championships/

Ten Chef Favourites that are now Mainstream Hits (in the US)..  None of these are strange to me or most of my customers, apart from any wild stuff I throw into the mix, but I agree that most of them are winner, even timeless (pretzels are certainly stanger on a menu to me than tongue or wild greens).  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2011/02/10_dishes.php

Kosary – an Egyptian ‘poutine’ with macaroni, lentils, fried onions, tomato, chili and vinegar, fuelling the people on the streets in Cairo

http://www.seriouseats.com/2011/02/egypt-revolution-cairo-tahrir-square-food-what-are-they-eating-koshary-feeding-a-revolution.html