soupnancy

Montreal restaurant closings, openings and rumours

http://www.cyberpresse.ca/opinions/chroniqueurs/marie-claude-lortie/200911/14/01-921716-fourneaux-et-fermetures.php

Normand Laprise and Thermador – Les Produits Locaux videoclips featuring the chef visiting local producers with simple recipes ideas to encourage the average cook to eat local.

http://www.thermadorrealfood.ca/index_fr.html

Cuisine Canada Cookbook Awards – The winners

http://www.lib.uoguelph.ca/resources/archival_&_special_collections/the_collections/digital_collections/culinary/cuisine_canada/index.html

The ten weirdest things to eat - Chicken knees, Australian grubs, wriggling lobster, blood tongue sausage and such.. A preview of Extreme Cuisine. 

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/travel/holiday_type/food_and_travel/article6906033.ece

Way to go Michelle!   Montreal Pastry chef (Endless Banquet blog) is on a roll.  Some interesting recipes for the holiday season (or anytime) too.

http://endlessbanquet.blogspot.com/2009/11/christmas-in-september.html

Alongside Michelle (Obama), Sam Kass might be making a difference - even if ‘he is just a cook’.  That kind of criticism obviously really gets my back up, but whatever. It only makes me root for him more.  He seems like more of a politico or an activist than a pure bred cook, which is probably better for the agenda. She brought the circus of chefs in for show too.  Fun and games, all while getting the message across.  Slowly, who knows, the govt.- big ag affiliation might weaken if she keeps it up.

A white house chef who wears two hats http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04kass.html

Someone’s in the kitchen with Michelle

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04iron.html

Good news – a real knife shop in Montreal!  I remember fondling knives for hours in such a store in Vancouver a decade ago while my girlfriends stood by exasperated, eager to move on to shoes.  Now, I can head over to Laurier on my own and spend as much time in blade heaven as I want..  

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+most+cutting+edge+store+city/2164666/story.html

‘Table aux Saveurs du Terroir’ certification (www.agricotours.qc.ca) doesn’t seem to mean much, if this restaurant (Atelier) claims it with shrimp (not Nordic), asparagus and mangoes on the menu.  Especially at this time of year, when there is plenty of fine Quebec vegetables (and fruit too) on the market from the last harvests..  I hate to harsh on a restaurant I haven’t tried, it’s the ‘local washing’ that kills me.  Apparently only five restaurants have this certification in Montreal, whereas most (as in dozens, if not hundreds) on the high end are way more dedicated to local ingredients than this obviously demands.  Marketing can never replace soul or quality.  Why am I not surprised by this poor review.  Desserts made by Saputo says it all.  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/latelier/

A Greener Halloween..  If you’re going to partake in the silliness of Halloween, at least consider greening it up a notch.  http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/10/23/green-tip-of-the-week-green-hallowe-en.aspx

Getting to know your meat – butchery classes in vogue

It’s not like everyone needs to get down and dirty and learn butchering, but being aware of how meat (and food in general) appears on the plate makes anyone a more thoughtful and appreciative eater. Valueing real food, opting out of the industrial system, putting some work or attention into your meal ends up being just a wee bit better for the animals, for the planet, and most absolutely for the diner.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html

Raising prices on a whim  Yes, sometimes restaurants take advantage of some hype, especially when run by business people.  But often, what happens too, is that a restaurant that has genuinely been undercharging for too long comes into it’s own.  So as soon as they get a chance to hike their prices (to put balance sheets in line) without a curfuffle, they do. Given the food cost, the staff wages, the fixed costs and everything else, a restauranteur knows how much he/she should charge, but in this economic climate for instance, he/she might easily opt for less, in hopes of better times ahead when the prices can be realigned..  When they do, it is unfair for people to scream.  So many restaurants operate with slim to non existent profit margins, few can afford to play around.  I just don’t think anyone should be too harsh on restaurants upping prices without a second thought.  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/daniel_price_hike.php

Family run restaurants, the way of the past, and the future?  Especially in difficult economic times, the formula can provide bigger bang for the buck for sure.  Not only does passion and sincere hospitality usually shine through when the people with a personal stake are at the helm (although fatigue can show too), but the bottom line is that family costs less.  A hands on owner is generally worth 3+ employees. If we were to pay ourselves the same salary we pay our employees (per hour), we would not be in business.  And it’s hard to find employees that take the business to heart and see all the details, that will go the extra mile to do what needs to be done beyond their task list, tending to the odds and edds and surprises,  be it in dealing with a finnicky customer or flood, to running out for ice or candles or unplugging a toilet, or pitching in at the dishpit, knowing that asking for a night off is out of the question.  Not to mention the importance of striving for quality and efficiency in every move.. This kind of thoughtfulness, drive and attitude day in day out, comes naturally to business owners, but needs to be drilled into employees – and it is the key to a sucessful dining experience. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/oct/21/family-run-restaurants

Maybe Gourmet was ahead of it’s time, as opposed to lagging behind..

What Gourmet’s critics missed http://www.grist.org/article/2009-10-13-what-gourmet-magazine-critics-missed

Go Michelle go!  Planting a garden at the whitehouse,  promoting local food and healthy eating, talking food reform.., she’s off to a good start.  When it comes to attacking the sugar in America’s soda diet, and the high salt-sugar-fat mix in industrial food in general, which is so readily marketed by big ag, she will be taking on big ag.  Let’s hope she doesn’t shy away.

http://www.grist.org/article/is-michelle-obama-about-to-take-on-big-food

Another Ecoli scandal, a teacher paralyzed.. Sad and Scary yes.  But hello - Why does anyone find it surprising that contamination arises with such INDUSTRIAL food, when there are so many steps between the meat (scraps) and the customer, all being handled by big companies and spotty reglementation. Ditch Cargyll and the like; buy your food from a traceable source, get your butcher to grind your meat or do it you yourself.

E. Coli Path Shows Flaws in Beef Inspection, by Michael Moss http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/health/04meat.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all

On smart farming: it’s possible to make a living farming organic. If more green thumbs and back to the land types could be inspired by this guy, that would be great.  Because we do need more than 2% of the population growing our food if we want good food in the near future fossil fuel free world.

A farmer speaks: Richard Wiswall on the business of organic farming

http://www.grist.org/article/richard-wiswall-on-the-business-of-organic-farming/

Rules to eat by..  Michael Pollan says that culture has more to teach us than nutritionists and protect us from marketers, and is collecting tidbits of food advice for his new book. 

A well written article as usual: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/11/magazine/11food-rules-t.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

His 20 favourite food rules so far (quite humorous) http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/10/11/magazine/20091011-foodrules.html

Gourmet Magazine folds, very sad.  Can it be, really?  This comes as a surprise to me, especially that they only seemed to have more ads than ever. I mostly loved Gourmet, except for the second last issue (the alphabet) which I found disappointing because it felt silly and empty, a string of random recipes and pictures.  Nonetheless, I am a diehard fan of Ruth Reichl and was generally pleased with the direction she had taken the magazine; but not everyone agreed, it seems.

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/gourmet_magazine_dunzo_after_68_years.php

There are still many disappointed anglo foodies out there who grew up on Gourmet.

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/appreciation+Fond+farewell+Gourmet/2073814/story.html

Michelin stars in NYC for 2010 http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/10/michelin-announces-2010-new-york-city-restaurant-selections.html

Smoking Cooks!  It appears that Smoking and Cooking careers correlate - Big surprise. 

In Quebec, this is even more of a reality than this San Francisco crowd could imagine.  Yes, it comes down to the kind of strung out person that is drawn to the business in the first place, and more importantly, yes, it’s the stress in the kitchen.  Finally, yes, a cook is lucky to get a 10 minute break in a non-stop ten hour shift, so can you blame him/her for making it count and taking a drag?  And I say humph to those who speak of deadened taste buds, because when you taste for a living, your taste buds become more attuned and acute, like with practicing anything, developed senses – talented ears for music, touch for the blind.  Taste is a relative thing anyway; you adjust to the gustatory environment you have (if the background is smoke or garlic or whatever your mouth smells like, it gets cancelled out when you’re used to it; we all taste subjectively and against the backdrop of our lives.)  Not to mention the fact that many cooks are super-tasters.  Like a commentator said in response to this post below, I too would be overwhelmed by any more – it would make my life unbearable.  I already taste and smell too much, more than any of my non smoking friends, by the way. So, I find this correlation funny, relevant, and not hurtful at all.  Still, I think it’s silly to make it news, like people should be worrying about the fact that the people cooking their food might, probably smoke cigarettes (one butt in a 10 hour shift!). Big fucking deal.  But it’s true.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?&entry_id=48741

So, Love enhances the creative mind, and sex impedes it, favouring analytic processing instead.  Which means sex is practical, where as love helps stimulate and expand the mind.  I know that cooking has brought out the lover and artist in me.  I think anything that keeps you in touch with your senses and nature, while forcing you to suspend logic and appreciate magic, or act like an animal from time to time encourages creative thinking, so of course love does the job.  I would think that sex would fit in there too, but that doesn’t seem to be what these scientists are saying.  Maybe because like in that Seinfeld episode, the physical part is just like taking out the garbage, it has to be taken care of to let you get on with the rest of your life..  Practical, not creative.  Science meets Seinfeld, gotta love it.

http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=does-falling-in-love-make

Copy and Clone, a web video on industrial food by louis rigaud on Vimeo – clever and on the mark, worth watching..

http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/lelevage-a-lheure-des-biotechnologies/

A list of reasons why you should avoid farmed shrimp - Yes, those cheap ones from Asia that adorn just about every restaurant menu in Montreal.  Luckily, we have our little wild Nordic shrimp to make up for it, that are widely available (for another month!).  

http://www.chow.com/media/8226

Quebec cheese contest winners  My fave Alfred comes out on top

http://www.fromagesdici.com/tout/prix_caseus.asp

Fish faux pas, Poor Obama with all he has on his plate.. But still, he is supposed to have the staff, watchdogs and resources to cover it all.  How come the default is the most harmful and controversial of scenarios? F-ing big business and small print. http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/09/obama-fish-farm-policy

Is Julia passé?  A gathering of Montreal food writers and cooks say no.

I agree.  In Julia’s time, these French dishes were exotic; whereas now they are familiar, fancy restaurant-bistro fare from the past decades we know to be delicious.  But now, we can buy the ladyfingers for the Charlotte and skip a step or two too. Green, modern cooks would probably be better off with Mastering the Art of French Cooking than with the zillions of other half-assed cookbooks out there today.  And for seasoned cooks and foodies, it is tops for inspiration or some back-track grounding.  To rediscover delicious classics like this gang did.  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+Julia+pass%c3%a9/1964049/story.html

Buddha shaped pears, from the same guys with the square watermelons.  For those of you way back who didn’t even believe my ‘true’ poire Williams story – look what is being done with the poor pears now.

http://www.boingboing.net/2009/09/04/pears-grown-in-the-s.html

Bits and Bites August 2009

From a ‘liver doctor/wine writer’ - the down- lo on alcohol and heart disease. Whatever.. it always comes down to the same thing: No silver bullet, nothing is black and white, everything in moderation including moderation. Not that any of us really thought that drinking (wine or otherwise) should have an unqualified green light.. Like with nutrition, we don’t need the scientists for that. But like this guy says, that doesn’t mean we need to stop imbibing and enjoying.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/23/FDF2196S5E.DTL

A panoply of interesting wine books hitting the shelves http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/08/6-new-wine-books-on-psychology-geography-snobbery-and-more.html

One Part Creativity: Zero Parts Recipe. Can just using ratios really teach me to be a better cook? by Jennifer Reese.. An insightful account on using and creating recipes, in response to Michael Rulhman’s book Ratio.

I love ratios and I hate recipes. Of course, a few basic ones are key, and a few other tried and true favourites are handy to have; cookbooks are always useful for inspiration and as back up for reference. But mostly, I think a general recipe-free approach makes for the most rewarding kind of cooking, and usually the best tasting food. And yes, even in pastry where apparently every gram matters. I have always considered a recipe but a guideline, relying more on taste and feel, coaching cooks and students to use their senses and heads, as opposed to blindly following recipes. I do admit that beginning cooks are best starting off by executing standard recipes (still without ever being a slave to them, always alert).. and with time (Yes, time! No short-cuts), instincts become more refined, and success is possible armed but with but a few ratios, the doors open for creativity and real fun. Recipes are over-rated, and strict recipes are stifling and boring. They take the magic out of cooking, and don’t account for the variability in ingredients, mood, time and place, or what’s in your garden or fridge. Set yourself free!http://www.slate.com/id/2219243/?obref=obinsite

The Trouble with Julie and Julia http://www.gourmet.com/food/2009/08/julie-julia-movie A critique of the hit movie that offers perspective.

Miso Massawippi - a local product worth trying: Organic, unpasteurized, gluten free, probiotic - most mportantly, super tasty. I like the Soya and Rice orange paste for soups, vinaigrettes. Available all over town in épicerie fines and health food stores, eg. Rachel Bery,Les Douceurs du Marché, Atwater market. www.alimentsmassawippi.com

A Slowfood event in Old Montreal featuring tastings, demonstrations and conferences with visiting chefs, guest speakers and artisans on a variety of subjects in the ‘bon, juste et propre’ vein. http://www.saveursettentations.com/33.html

Made to imbibe We’ve been enjoying the by products of fermentation for longer than we have been civilized - no wonder, go figure. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=the-origin-of-wine

On Canada’s Horsemeat Industry It’s good to know that we should be leery of quality and the source of horse meat since the industry is so poorly regulated. http://danamccauley.wordpress.com/2009/08/17/behind-the-barn-door/

What they brought to the table, by Frank Bruni A thoughtful piece about how people act at the table provides a lens on human nature – very amusing and spot on. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/19/dining/19note.html?ref=dining

Pasta, quicker than ever (1 minute!) We soak rice noodles and many other grains and legumes to shorten cooking time, even for better results, so why not wheat pasta too? I don’t know if I would bother though; I don’t mind waiting 7-8 minutes, allowing for time to make sauce and sides. Yes, it might be useful in a restaurant, but then you would be using all that precious fridge space for tubs of soaking noodles.. And what happens with what doesn’t get sold – I’m not sure 24hr soaked noodles are so appetizing. And surely flavour would be leached out, if using good pasta.. I’m all for improvements in the kitchen, but not so much into complicating life for nothing. http://ideasinfood.typepad.com/ideas_in_food/2009/08/one-minute-pasta.html

Corn plastic, in case you’re wondering what it is and what to do with it.. You do just throw it in the garbage, but I think it was supposed to be slightly more bio-degradable than conventional plastic. Obviously, it is not something to encourage with Cargill and GMO petroleum corn behind it; best to RRR (Reduce, Re-use, Recycle). http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-12-ask-umbra-truth-corn-plastic

Debunking the meat-climate change myth – a farmer speaks out. It is not meat eating per say that is bad for the environment, but the industrial way of raising meat that is the culprit – the fossil fuel based grain diet. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-07-debunking-meat-climate-change-myth/

Ten links to help you know more about your food, compiled by the Culinate team.  

http://www.culinate.com/articles/features/sustainable_food_resouces_online

Union Square Café - still as popular, just not with the critics. This was one of my first restaurant cookbooks and my first NYC dining experience, so even if much time has gone by, I have a soft spot for the place. I think Danny Meyer and co. were sharp, visionary and inspiring with their Mediterranean mix of upscale and comfort food, choosing local ingredients and friendly over uppity service, quite novel at the time. There is something to be said for that, and for longevity.. Even if I know the food isn’t top notch by today’s standards, I don’t mind seeing it voted ‘most popular’ year after year. But I also know that trying to please all the customers all the time works against consistent quality; you have to have rules and systems and focus to maintain quality, especially when booked to the hilt every night. But maybe the bulk of their customers are happy with this approach, preferring the jovial atmosphere over fine tuned food and service. All the best to them.

http://events.nytimes.com/2009/08/05/dining/reviews/05rest.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Now a Pyramid shaped watermelon, after the heart shaped one and the square.. The Japanese are just crazy. http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20090718p2a00m0na017000c.html

Bits and Bites July 2009

Urban agriculture and the bio-top system

http://www.urbainculteurs.org/Les_bacs_Biotop_files/Mode%20d%20emploi%20Biotop%20web.pdf

Papilles et Molecules, François Chartier's new book on food and wine pairing is out in stores. By breaking it down to the chemical components in foods and wines, and finding matches there, marriages many of us already know instinctively or from experience are explained (say that fennel, celery and apple are related and so go well together), that curry and maple syrup and oak go together, etc.. Occasionally, this approach turns upsurprises (rosemary and noble rot!) too.. Alhthough, hardly complete, and probably not so practical in the long run, this book is fun to browse, neat andinspiring. http://www.francoischartier.ca/

Chefs on drugs.. I would hardly agree that MOST chefs are on drugs, but neither would I argue with the notion that chefs are largely personality types prone to experimentation, indulgence, rash and risky behaviour, or some sort of self-medication.. And the high octane rush and pressure of the kitchen makes them even more that way.http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-21/the-addicts-in-the-kitchen/?cid=topic:mainpromo1

Taras Grescoe on factory salmon farming Grist underlines a few salient tidbits from his book, Bottomfeeder, providing some clarity given all the industry propaganda. Also a good reminder to read this book if you haven’t already.. Bottom line here is that farmed salmon is BAD. If it is 'salmon' without any 'wild or Pacific name next to it, that is what you are buying or ordering at the restaurant.http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-15-taras-grescoe-on-factory-salmon-farming/

Old news, but the worst is Chilean salmon which is often that generic, cheap salmon sold in supermarkets and restaurants here too.

http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-24-chilean-salmon-industry-plunges-pesticide-antibiotic-abyss/

Grant Achatz on Celebrity Chefdom and being in the kitchen or not

Do you expect the owner of a construction company to be hammering in the last nail? Most people don’t realize what goes into a meal, this kind of enterprise his kind of restaurant can be, maybe because it’s just food. But if the chef is doing the cooking himself, he is not with customers, he is not on TV, he does not have the time to be a celebrity. I have a hard time just greeting the customers once in a night because I am working, and I don’t have a huge operation and brigade. In any kind of restaurant business though, the chef has to be present, but often it's behind the scene, in the running of things, and not every night or on the line, and with a solid team working for/with him or her, for it to really work and be authentic. It can still work and even be fabulous, but then it’s slightly different, not necessarily like said chef is there cooking. Most customers don’t know the difference anyway, and would be happier to see the chef than to just eat really good food. The celebrity chef phenomenon.

http://food.theatlantic.com/back-of-the-house/should-chefs-get-out-of-the-kitchen-1.php

Osaka – the world’s greatest food city! Ok, this makes me want to fly to Osaka ASAP, and travel in general.. Even if I haven’t been, I can’t help but agree that we should be hearing about all these great eats outside Europe and NYC more in the top lists and foodie reports - how refreshing. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/jul/13/osaka-japan-best-food-city

An interview with Mark Bittman, NYTimes columnist and cookbook author, among other things.. A likeable guy with a cool job, the kind that doesn’t pop into thin air, but is built.. http://www.splicetoday.com/consume/interview-mark-bittman

So now it’s Young Butchers that are Hot, says the NYTimes: “Young Idols with Cleavers Rule the Stage” http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08butch.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

I say praise the lord for the rise of a craft that was being lost to big industry slaughterhouses, a return to butchering our own meat (or seeing it butchered retail) from a small local farm. Any chef seeking out quality local producers pretty much has to do it him/herself, which I’m quite used to, but I’m all about letting someone else do it – with swifter technique, in a properly refrigerated workspace. I guess I’m old enough too to not care if I’m the bloodiest or fastest or coolest, because I can hack up a carcass with precision, in record speed. I can’t help but think that these hot butchers spring from the subset of all kitchens’ most macho, most brutish elements, those that we love dearly of course; it’s a certain talent and personality type. I would like to keep one in my own kitchen, but if not, at least I know they’re out there in swelling numbers.. So, let them have their own cult following and glam space. Average consumers might wake up to real food with them around, and we cooks might actually be more productive in the kitchen with the option of outsourcing to one of our own, so all with a clean conscience, all for a better product in peace.

Blowing up Brie cheese with nitrous oxide.. Looks nasty but probably tastes great. If you’re curious, the Ideas in Food team shares their foam recipe, which is made stable by exploiting the synergy of agar and Locust bean gum.

http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-07/blowing-cheese-nitrous-oxide

National Geographic report, ‘The End of Plenty’ - A good read, long and heavy, but important. I can’t believe that Mosanto and the like are still considered a part of the solution. Then again, going back to old school methods would probably mean that more people will die sooner, but probably not more than in the long run, along with the planet. Even if it’s hypocritical to say from my privileged spot in the world, I believe in sustainable at all costs. I do my little bit and I realize it’s nothing in the big picture, mostly because very few in the western world are doing much, but I still believe in it, practical or not. And I wish more of us were worrying about this at night. http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/06/cheap-food/bourne-text

The urban farmer - A pretty neat bio. Not to mention a good cause and a motto to live by, To do the best you can. But eating better is even simpler thanks to people like him. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/05/magazine/05allen-t.html?pagewanted=4&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Mapping the Mario Batali Genome.. If they are doing this for other achievers and interesting people, then why not chefs? But still, I think it’s silly - maybe the chef celebrity thing is overblown. He’s just a good cook who likes his orange crocs. http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/07/mapping-the-batali-genome.html

Canadian Chefs serve seal, with a side of contraversy: A (fluffy) New York Times article about seal on Montreal menus. Of course, seal is not on many Montreal menus, but in Northern Quebec and Canada, it is part of the culinary heritage and way of life. There isn’t much controversy either, except in Europe. If Michaelle Jean hadn’t taken that offered bite of seal heart, she would have indeed caused even more of a stir (assuming the same media coverage), insulting her hosts, and a nation she represents. Anyway, like with the foie gras issue, there are bigger fish to fry - people should worry more about their battery chicken and farmed shrimp and ‘unfair trade’ coffee.. The seal trade is miniscule in comparison, not to mention the cultural, historical roots, and that it is highly managed, and not so unethical in the big picture. In any case, I wouldn’t worry too much about seal taking off as the next big thing.. Unlike foie gras, seal isn’t that tasty to most people who didn’t grow up on it (say those freaks from the lower north shore, NFLD or up north) – think: beef tenderloin meets calf’s liver with a fishy taste. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/01/dining/01seal.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Bits and Bites June 2009

Why don't the French cook like they used to?  Of course, they do.  But no thanks to Michelin.

http://www.slate.com/id/2221245/

Chefs are interviewed for The Globe and Mail’s series of articles on salt, including yours truly, and funnily, we all pretty much reiterated the same thing - that we wouldn’t want to give up salt, but that there are many other ways to punch up flavour too. Of course, none of this would even be an issue if people stayed clear of processed and packaged foods and cooked real food.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/special-reports/hard-to-shake/dont-pass-the-salt/article1194031/

Normand Laprise of Toqué is awarded the Order of Quebec (CHEVALIER DE L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU QUÉBEC), for his contribution to Quebec cuisine. http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Nouvelles.php

CSF start-up in Boston – A CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program, but for fish, Lucky them! Buying fish straight from local fishermen according to their catch, so fresh as can be, no waste, more money for the fishermen, better for everybody – what a novel concept! I wish my Newfie Grandfather were around to read this. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124421534407589317.html

New farmer’s market on Duluth, including some urban farmers http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/06/16/new-farmer-s-market-opens-in-montreal-s-plateau-district.aspx

Highwood Crossing cold-pressed canola oil - Canada’s extra virgin olive oil.. We used this oil when I was at l’Eau à la Bouche years ago, I am a big fan. It’s really unbelievably good. Orphée’s is good too, but not as flavourful. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/organic-cold-pressed-canola-oil-competes-for-the-spotlight-with-gold-standard-olive-oil/article1175917/

Would you like some GMO’s in your coffee? In case you didn’t know Monsanto was all over sugar beets too. http://www.grist.org/article/would-you-like-some-gmos-in-your-coffee/

Wreaking Haddock: How to eat sustainable fish, a video on Grist

http://www.grist.org/article/2009-ask-umbras-video-advice-on-sustainable

Big Food under Fire - Yay. But it will take more than a little Obama mania to pull them down. Thankfully, Mother Nature, more powerful than all, will bring them (and us) to our senses soon enough! http://www.slate.com/id/2219686/pagenum/all/#p2

Chefs’ Memoirs - all now, so «Anthony Bourdain»

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook3-2009jun03,0,4852028.story

Bits and Bites May 2009

Montreal Chefs changing places: Eric Gonzalez to replace Marc André Jetté and Patrice Demers at Laloux.. http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/chaises-musicales/

The Case for Working with Your Hands – A terrific article about the trades, what craft does for the soul and for society.. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=crawford%20magazine%20soulcraft&st=cse

What the Financial System can teach us about food, an essay by Tom Philpott http://www.grist.org/article/2009-05-22-financial-collapse-food/

Canada’s supermarkets get failing grade on fish - No kidding, it’s atrocious. As consumers, we can help change that by speaking up and demanding information. http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/05/22/not-a-lot-of-fish-in-the-seas.aspx

Lifting the veil on industrial food: Food Inc the movie

http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/food-inc.html

Watch the trailer http://www.foodincmovie.com/

ElBulli extends opening hours http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/05/chaos-at-el-bulli

Michael Pollan on the Colbert Report http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/michael-pollan-trades-barbs-with-stephen-colbert.html

New Montreal Gazette Food blog http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/shopchopeat/default.aspx

Shitting on Alice Waters. I don’t get it. No, actually, I do get it, and I think it’s cheap, and shameful. With all she’s done, and what she stands for. I think the people dissing her mostly can’t stand feeling the guilt behind their own food choices. Yes, it doessuck to have be responsible and care about people and the planet when feeding ourselves; luckily, the reward is there in taste and healthfulness. When she celebrates an artisanal product, a lettuce or date producer, and bangs agribusiness, it wakes people up to these issues. If only to make them think about where their food comes from and make better choices, to lead people towards eating locally and sustainably, to teach kids about gardening and eating better.. How can that be bad? Who cares how many silk scarves she has? And yes, it is possible to not prioritize the checks and balances of real life, and not be an elitist. It’s called being an idealist. Or an artist or a humanist or an activist - when ideas and principles outweigh material concerns. Sure, she might be rich now, but she wasn’t for most of her life, and this is not her driving force. It is principles and down to earth passion. We need more people like her in every domain of society. You can alwayshire peeps to keep the books. There are too many people manning the books and not enough brains focused on the big picture these days – that’s our problem. Industrial agriculture, a polluted environment, sick food and obese and unhappy people, hmmph. That’s what she’s fighting. I commend her for not giving up in face of all us naysayers and lazy asses.

http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/05/war-on-alice-waters

http://www.eatmedaily.com/2009/05/yet-again-the-old-media-defends-alice-waters/

2009 James Beard Food Media and Journalism awards – the winners

http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/james-beard-foundation-2009-journalism-and-media-award-winners.html

Saving the Tamworth Pig by eating it http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831

Bits and Bites April 2009

Protecting the bagel and other national treasures: http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/Protecting+bagel+other+national+treasures/1543689/story.html  Not only to protect and promote our treasures, we absolutely need to push for more meaningful labelling in general, to favour truth over sly marketing.  Mapleleaf should not be allowed to sell a pseudo product as Proscuitto.  Stores should not be allowed to sell meat or fish or anything without fully disclosing where it comes from.  It's so frustrating dealing with the lack of information out there  when trying to make good choices.  Meanwhile, shoppers who don't ask questions are being misled, supporting shoddy factory farms or slave picked tomatoes without knowing it.

Swine flu outbreak may be linked to Smithfield factory farms - surprise, surprise. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-04-25-swine-flu-smithfield

Compost collection available in Montreal!!

http://compostmontreal.com/

Sea choice sushi guide -restaurants in Vancouver and Halifax get serious

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090422.wlsushi22art1832/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090422.wlsushi22art1832

World’s 50 Best Restaurants, And a Reminder that haute cuisine matters.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/apr/21/restaurants-chefs-recession

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/apr/21/50-best-restaurants

Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) focuses on terroir Dropping the winemaking and marketing tricks, not to mention many of his popular labels, he is dedicating himself to making original wine, with no irrigation, old-style.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/22pour.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Le 1608 – A cheese from the Charlevoix made in the Beaufort style from the heritage Canadienne breed of cattle http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832

Food.com - a promising new recipe search tool ? http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/04/a-new-player-in-recipe-search.html

Susan Semenak writes about maple syrup and chefs who use it (like me!)

http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/drip+anything/1497904/story.html

More Extreme Bacon http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/04/extreme-bacon-i.html?mbid=rss_epilog Every day there seems to be another bacon blog, or new"bacon explosion" type recipe riding the food waves. Could bacon possibly jump the shark? No matter how much I love it, even I am getting sick of reading and talking about it. Like Leonard Cohen said about his song, Hallelujah; no matter how fabulous, it may be time for a moratorium, not at home, but in the media at least.

Great Depression Cooking with Clara: http://greatdepressioncooking.com/Depression_Cooking/

Refreshing. Important. Intriguing. This woman in her nineties shares recipes and anecdotes from the era in a series of cooking videos, telling it like it was.You can hear heron Q, the Wednesday April 15th podacast: http://www.cbc.ca/podcasting/pastpodcasts.html?42#ref42

Doi Chaang, an ultra premium coffee from Northern Thailand, is a sun-dried cousin of Kopi Luak, the

Indonesian coffee made famous for the beans being digested by cats.

http://gremolata.com/Articles/597-Greenest-Coffee-In-The-World.aspx

Harold McGee always has something smart to say. This time, it’s about yogourt.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/15/dining/15curi.html?_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Ratio, Michael Rulman’s new book: The simple codes behind the craft of every day cooking http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/04/ratio-the-simpl.html

What a useful book this promises to be! I’ve always liked to think this way (because I hate recipes), constantly trying to figure the underlying principles out myself. Here, some of them will be spelled out - cool.

Bluefin tuna fishery collapse within 3 years

http://www.panda.org/wwf_news/?162001/Mediterranean-bluefin-tuna-stocks-collapsing-now-as-fishing-season-opens

On a related topic, there is a new book out on the sorry state of our oceans:

Sea Sick, The Global Ocean in Crisis, by Alanna Mitchell

http://www.mcclelland.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780771061165

Focused on Fish, “Bottomfeeder” by our own Taras Grescoe is a compelling (and alarming) read, offering a good overview of the situation. If you haven’t read it, please pick it up. http://www.tarasgrescoe.com/

Sadly, it is really difficult to find sustainable fish options in Montreal restaurants. Besides the over-fished wild species still featured on menus of our best restaurants, the vast quantities of cheap farmed salmon and shrimp shamelessly been gobbled down daily in bistros and chain restaurants is even more horrifying. Such environmentally devastating enterprises should be taxed out of business. Chefs should take a stand and be leaders, but if diners showed they cared more, restauranteurs would be more inclined to follow. When will we wake up? I guess it takes environmental disasters and fisheries collapsing.

Bits and Bites March 2009

Adam Leith Gollner visits California Pinot noir for a party

http://gremolata.com/Articles/566-California-Bacchanalia-Inside-The-World-of-Pinot-Noir.aspx

Let’s hope the white house garden is more than symbolic. A food policy that favours agribusiness less and sustainable, organic farmers as well as farmers’ markets would only go hand in hand with Obama’s focus on health and nutrition, as well as the environment. ‘Could a food revolution be in season?’ http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/22/business/22food.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Good cooks for hire, finally

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/18/dining/18cooks.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&ref=dining

Improving the kitchenaid paddle – yes!

http://www.sideswipeblade.com/index.html

The FAT DUCK reopens

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/mar/11/fat-duck-reopen

Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack Opening this season..

http://www.cabaneasucreaupieddecochon.com/index_e.html

On the future of food, ideas for a sustainable system: eating less meat and dairy is a must, vertical farms are an idea. Michael Pollan says it is Gov’t subsidies in the right places and more farmer’s markets that we need.

http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/03/09/mother-jones-on-organic-food-with-a-dash-of-michael-pollan.aspx

Bits and bites February 2009

Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck closed due to health scare that appears to be no fault of his own, still a mystery.. What a nightmare, poor guy.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/feb/27/heston-blumenthal-fat-duck-food-poisoning

Montréal en Lumière festival reviews

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/index.html

An inspiring interview with Gail Simmons, a little Canadian girl who made it big in the food world http://gremolata.com/Articles/534-Gail-Simmons-Rise-to-The-Top.aspx

Truffe – the movie, now out on DVD: I was psyched, a Québec movie with truffles as a main part of the plot (you see, with global warming, truffles start sprouting up all over the place and people are topping their poutines with them), I was ready to LOVE it, and I tried. But even with Roy Dupuis, I found it hard to love; in fact I spent the whole time waiting and trying to ‘get it’. I suspect there a lot of subtext here, playing with metaphors, or maybe they’re just having an all out stupid time, not sure. François kind of liked it. http://www.radio-canada.ca/arts-spectacles/cinema/2008/08/21/001-truffe_sortie.asp?ref=rss

A much more promising MUSHROOM MOVIE, ‘Know Your Mushrooms’,

Coming to Cinema du Parc in March.. http://www.cinemaduparc.com/english/prochainemente.php?id=know#top

Scotch and coffee tasting at Lenoir Lacroix Thursday 5à7

http://www.lenoirlacroix.ca/degustarium.html

New Restaurants to check out:

Mas cuisine in Verdun Chef Michel Ross 51..., http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?article=63011&section=21

Greasy Spoon on Laurier, http://www.voir.ca/error/error.htm?aspxerrorpath=/publishing/article.aspx

Monsieur B. (old Montée) 371 Villeneuve E. (corner Drolet), 51..., http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1&section=21&article=62668

Macaroni Bar 4448 St-Laurent, 51..., http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Dining+Macaroni+full+boil/1312491/story.html

Barroco in Old Montreal, I’ve heard good things, especially from the young set.. http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1&section=21&article=63130

Contempory art meets gastronomy at the Jolifou Recession or not, cool things are happening in Montreal.. (this event Feb. 24,25)

http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1&section=21&article=63010

Nadia G. book launch From the online hit cooking show Bitchinkitchen.tv, Nadia G., an Italian Montrealer with a following, has published a book, a very different one at that, subtitled ‘Rock your kitchen and let the boys clean up’. Definitely sassy and fun with some solid food tips and recipes (stashed behind the hilarious pictures, capsules and sexy photos). I really didn’t expect to like this book, but I did, not because I learnt anything about food, which could be besides the point, but I bet a lot of the young bitchin’ set would. If the kids are being nudged towards organic food and real cooking with a bit of witty rebel-sexy edge and silliness, than cool. We can all use a dose of it anyway.

www.bitchenkitchen.tv.

Menus by Epynord – for restauranteurs and sommeliers, sharp options, take your pick.. http://www.menusderestaurant.com/

Garlic – the ultra anti-oxidant – that is real garlic, not supplements

http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/02/politics-of-the-plate-health-properties-of-garlic

The next ‘it’ ingredient – Black Garlic http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2009/02/24/AR2009022400755.html

Everything Chocolate:

http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/c/chocolate/index.html

Top twelve aphrodisiac foods for Valentine’s.. Whether their powers are scientifically proven or not (hardly the point), folklore suggests they can work for you..

http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/holidays/valentinesday/aphrodisiacs?mbid=e021009

Cuizine, The Journal of Canadian food cultures – our very own Canadian academic food journal on line, very cool. I remember attending a conference hosted by McGill and the McCord Museum years ago and listening to all these fascinating people presenting their theses and food related studies in English or in French and having the time of my life. I was floored that all this research and dialogue was going on in a separate world, parallel to mine as a chef. Now I am happy to know I have access to some of it..

http://www.erudit.org/revue/cuizine/2008/v1/n1/index.html

Rethinking allergy paranoia http://www.chow.com/media/7136

Vancouver is looking awfully good

Daniel Boulud’s Lumière

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090204.wldish04/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090204.wldish04

Jean George Vongrichten’s Market

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090204.wljeangeorges04/BNStory/lifeFoodWine

How Lobster turns from blue to red when cooked - has possible medical applications http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/03/science/03qna.html?ref=dining

French idioms relating to food: ‘Mi-figue, mi-raisin’, ‘s’occuper de ses oignons’ and etc.. Love em..

http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/cat_french_idioms.php

Salon HRI restaurant show in Montreal Feb 8.-10. at Place Bonaventure

www.salonhri.com

Montreal Highlights Festival: all kinds of events and culinary delights for all budgets, with Paris as the focal city, from February 19th to March 1st.

The guests: http://www.montrealhighlights.com/volets/table/invites_en.aspx

The events: http://www.montrealhighlights.com/volets/liste_eve_en.aspx?volet=table

Poor Restauranteurs, Lucky diners (in NYC): ‘When Restaurants stop playing hard to get’

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/02/04/dining/04note.html?pagewanted=3&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Customers here in Montreal already have a good deal..

Fresh Boxes I’m not a such a gadget person, but this looks like a good idea.. For those fragile items and pastry type things you can’t put sous-vide but aren’t made à la minute, sometimes necessarily a day or two in advance, to keep them fresher, longer ..

http://www.freshfinds.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/_/Fresh-Box/productID/C1AC3072-CCB0-4BA8-B9EA-1019AB66D649/categoryID/1F44D1B7-80BE-4DBC-814D-42D01E35950B/

Bits and Bites January 2009

Food and Think, A Heaping Helping of Food Science and Culture: A new food blog from Smithsonian with topics like the archaeology of alcohol consumption in human history, tracing human evolution via stomach ulcer bacteria and the nomenclature of fish.. Very cool. http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/

Playing with aromas as ingredients: trendy chefs turn perfumists http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/01/madrid-fusion-power-of-scent

 Eat less, live longer, remember more Although I’m not too sure I would want to live longer and remember everything if I was starving.. http://www.sciam.com/podcast/episode.cfm?id=eat-less-remember-more-09-01-27

Agave nectar, the sweetener of the moment http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-01/agave-nectar-sweetener-any-occasion

Marion Nestle’s Fight for food safety No wonder she is wary; after writing so many books on food issues, and inspiring so many others, when as she says, we know what to do, we have the solutions, and still so little change.. http://gremolata.com/Articles/487-Marion-Nestles-Fight-For-Food-safety.aspx

Mark Bittman’s new book, ‘Food Matters’, a guide to conscious eating

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090121.wlbittman21/BNStory/globebooks/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090121.wlbittman21

Some excerpts: On the oil dependence of cattle farming, "A typical family-of-four steak dinner is the rough equivalent, energy-wise, of driving around in a sport-utility vehicle for three hours while leaving all the lights on at home."

On the advantage of eating plants, "It takes 2.2 calories of fossil fuel to yield one calorie of food energy from corn; that same calorie of food energy from beef requires you to burn 40 calories of fossil fuel."

On the virtue of embracing a bit of hunger, "The three things people are most neurotic about are food, sex and sleep. Very few people, every time they want to have sex, go have sex. Almost no one goes to sleep every time they get tired. But people think 'I'm hungry' and they go get food right away."

Trying to recreate restaurant dishes at home: A journalist tests the recipes from three NYC restaurants and compares them to the real thing.. for the most unsurprising of results: Reminiscent but not quite as good, with out all the frills, and with a sink full of dishes. http://www.slate.com/id/2208787/

Trying to recreate restaurant dishes at home: A journalist tests the recipes from three NYC restaurants and compares them to the real thing.. for the most unsurprising of results: Reminiscent but not quite as good, with out all the frills, and with a sink full of dishes. http://www.slate.com/id/2208787/

David Suzuki’s Saving Green hot-list

http://www.davidsuzuki.org/NatureChallenge/newsletters/jan09_savinggreen/default.asp

And before the budget deadline, tell the government how important the environment is to you!

Made with crushed bugs. Why can’t they just say it like it is?

Beetle dye http://www.chow.com/media/7002

New FDA labelling laws http://www.cspinet.org/new/200901055.html

Explaining salmonella in peanut butter http://www.sciam.com/article.cfm?id=salmonella-poisoning-peanut-butter

Everyone wants to know what the president likes to eat, hoping for a piece of the action too..

‘Chowbama’ http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090114.wchowbama14/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/

Washington restaurants hope to make his dining out list http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/14/dining/14power.html

A blog devoted to the Obama foodscape http://obamafoodorama.blogspot.com/search/label/Cristeta%20Comerford

As this Gourmet article suggests, it would be nice that all this talk of change extended to the table. Especially that our food supply and eating habits are so intimately tied in with health issues, the environment, the economy and every citizen’s day to day, the president and the white house chef have the power to bring food issues mainstream, to bring real change..

http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/01/white-house-chef-wars

Top restaurants say ‘what recession?’ http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/01/top-restaurants.html

Meanwhile Spam (and co.) sales skyrocket

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090112.wllowbrow12/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/home

Saving a squirrel by eating one: British chefs and activists have made the North American gray squirrel a sought after delicacy. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/07/dining/07squirrel.html

Or how about a Raccoon? Another increasingly appealing choice for the times.. http://www.kansascity.com/living/food/story/977895.html

Looking back:

The best videos of 2008 at Serious Eats, notably the pig in boots

http://www.seriouseats.com/2008/12/the-year-that-was-on-serious-eats-videos.html

The best casual Montreal Restaurants of 2008: A whole list of new spots for cheap good eats – might turn in handy this year..

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/informal+eats/1117276/story.html

Kitchen science: some good, useful basic reminders http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/06/science/06cook.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Fat and booze: The latest best diet for women

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/dec/28/health-and-well-being-health1