soupnancy

‘Table aux Saveurs du Terroir’ certification (www.agricotours.qc.ca) doesn’t seem to mean much, if this restaurant (Atelier) claims it with shrimp (not Nordic), asparagus and mangoes on the menu.  Especially at this time of year, when there is plenty of fine Quebec vegetables (and fruit too) on the market from the last harvests..  I hate to harsh on a restaurant I haven’t tried, it’s the ‘local washing’ that kills me.  Apparently only five restaurants have this certification in Montreal, whereas most (as in dozens, if not hundreds) on the high end are way more dedicated to local ingredients than this obviously demands.  Marketing can never replace soul or quality.  Why am I not surprised by this poor review.  Desserts made by Saputo says it all.  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/latelier/

A Greener Halloween..  If you’re going to partake in the silliness of Halloween, at least consider greening it up a notch.  http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/10/23/green-tip-of-the-week-green-hallowe-en.aspx

Getting to know your meat – butchery classes in vogue

It’s not like everyone needs to get down and dirty and learn butchering, but being aware of how meat (and food in general) appears on the plate makes anyone a more thoughtful and appreciative eater. Valueing real food, opting out of the industrial system, putting some work or attention into your meal ends up being just a wee bit better for the animals, for the planet, and most absolutely for the diner.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html

Raising prices on a whim  Yes, sometimes restaurants take advantage of some hype, especially when run by business people.  But often, what happens too, is that a restaurant that has genuinely been undercharging for too long comes into it’s own.  So as soon as they get a chance to hike their prices (to put balance sheets in line) without a curfuffle, they do. Given the food cost, the staff wages, the fixed costs and everything else, a restauranteur knows how much he/she should charge, but in this economic climate for instance, he/she might easily opt for less, in hopes of better times ahead when the prices can be realigned..  When they do, it is unfair for people to scream.  So many restaurants operate with slim to non existent profit margins, few can afford to play around.  I just don’t think anyone should be too harsh on restaurants upping prices without a second thought.  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/daniel_price_hike.php

Family run restaurants, the way of the past, and the future?  Especially in difficult economic times, the formula can provide bigger bang for the buck for sure.  Not only does passion and sincere hospitality usually shine through when the people with a personal stake are at the helm (although fatigue can show too), but the bottom line is that family costs less.  A hands on owner is generally worth 3+ employees. If we were to pay ourselves the same salary we pay our employees (per hour), we would not be in business.  And it’s hard to find employees that take the business to heart and see all the details, that will go the extra mile to do what needs to be done beyond their task list, tending to the odds and edds and surprises,  be it in dealing with a finnicky customer or flood, to running out for ice or candles or unplugging a toilet, or pitching in at the dishpit, knowing that asking for a night off is out of the question.  Not to mention the importance of striving for quality and efficiency in every move.. This kind of thoughtfulness, drive and attitude day in day out, comes naturally to business owners, but needs to be drilled into employees – and it is the key to a sucessful dining experience. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/oct/21/family-run-restaurants

Maybe Gourmet was ahead of it’s time, as opposed to lagging behind..

What Gourmet’s critics missed http://www.grist.org/article/2009-10-13-what-gourmet-magazine-critics-missed

Go Michelle go!  Planting a garden at the whitehouse,  promoting local food and healthy eating, talking food reform.., she’s off to a good start.  When it comes to attacking the sugar in America’s soda diet, and the high salt-sugar-fat mix in industrial food in general, which is so readily marketed by big ag, she will be taking on big ag.  Let’s hope she doesn’t shy away.

http://www.grist.org/article/is-michelle-obama-about-to-take-on-big-food

Another Ecoli scandal, a teacher paralyzed.. Sad and Scary yes.  But hello - Why does anyone find it surprising that contamination arises with such INDUSTRIAL food, when there are so many steps between the meat (scraps) and the customer, all being handled by big companies and spotty reglementation. Ditch Cargyll and the like; buy your food from a traceable source, get your butcher to grind your meat or do it you yourself.

E. Coli Path Shows Flaws in Beef Inspection, by Michael Moss http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/health/04meat.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all

On smart farming: it’s possible to make a living farming organic. If more green thumbs and back to the land types could be inspired by this guy, that would be great.  Because we do need more than 2% of the population growing our food if we want good food in the near future fossil fuel free world.

A farmer speaks: Richard Wiswall on the business of organic farming

http://www.grist.org/article/richard-wiswall-on-the-business-of-organic-farming/

Rules to eat by..  Michael Pollan says that culture has more to teach us than nutritionists and protect us from marketers, and is collecting tidbits of food advice for his new book. 

A well written article as usual: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/11/magazine/11food-rules-t.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

His 20 favourite food rules so far (quite humorous) http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/10/11/magazine/20091011-foodrules.html

Gourmet Magazine folds, very sad.  Can it be, really?  This comes as a surprise to me, especially that they only seemed to have more ads than ever. I mostly loved Gourmet, except for the second last issue (the alphabet) which I found disappointing because it felt silly and empty, a string of random recipes and pictures.  Nonetheless, I am a diehard fan of Ruth Reichl and was generally pleased with the direction she had taken the magazine; but not everyone agreed, it seems.

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/gourmet_magazine_dunzo_after_68_years.php

There are still many disappointed anglo foodies out there who grew up on Gourmet.

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/appreciation+Fond+farewell+Gourmet/2073814/story.html

Michelin stars in NYC for 2010 http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/10/michelin-announces-2010-new-york-city-restaurant-selections.html