Pavlova
Pavlova, and a side of rhubarb
Now this is a cook’s dessert, ie. Oh so simple and delicious!
Defining Pavlova loosely: Meringue, some whipped cream plus fruit.
rhubarb vanilla grass pavlova and sorbet, clover strawberry shortbread
fresh rhubarb from the garden
It’s rhubarb season, and I love rhubarb, a tart veg-fruit of which I have an abundant supply in the back yard, so no-brainer – rhubarb pavlova goes on the menu. Besides, I have cooked rhubarb just about every other way in the past few weeks.. In the process, I have also drank quite a bit of fresh rhubarb juice, yum (just chop rhubarb, toss with a bit of sugar, let sit in fridge or freezer, drain and drink, while using the rhubarb in recipe!) Which made me think I should be doing a rhubarb post.. But since everyone else in the food media has rhubarbed out the rhubarb thing before it even really came into season here, I will focus on the pavlova, especially after seeing so many plates licked clean on the weekend. This dessert was the hit of my rhubarb series. It can only get better too, as the first Quebec strawberries, rhubarb’s favourite partner come into season.. To think that I had temporarily forgotten about Pavlova or the usefulness of meringue altogether; it came back to me when I had to test a meringue recipe for my cookbook judging.. I am happy to have rediscovered it but because it is just so darn good, and a terrific vehicle for summer fruit.. It is versatile, open for inspiration and it is one of those desserts that is actually doable at home, or for cooks who aren’t necessarily pastry chefs like me.
When layered, the three simple components of sweet and crispy (the meringue), soft and rich (the Chantilly ), and sweet and sour (the fruit garnish) come together to dance and sing spring once assembled. The result is something greater than the sum of the parts – Pavlova is decadent, but it tastes light.
Now to make it..
First off, try not to choose a rainy day. (I hope this is not a recipe deal breaker for you..)
Then you make your meringue, cook it, let it dry out.
Make a fruit compote or salsa… I made both, and a coulis and gelée too, to have contrasts of fresh and cooked flavours, smooth and jiggly textures, but that’s not necessary.
What is necessary is fruit is some form, even fresh is fine, and making a Chantilly , or whipped cream flavoured with vanilla or flavour of choice. I used vanilla-grass, you can do whatever you want, even add a shot of liqueur.
Pile it all on the meringue, dig in.
It can look as nice as you want it (if you make mini meringues and pipe your toppings), or you can go free form and make one big one family style- but most importantly, you can trust that it will taste great and wow your guests, be they sophisticated gourmands or little ones.
For 8-12
Meringue
4 egg whites
1 cup of sugar
pinch salt
pinch cream of tartar
Whip whites with pinch of salt and cream of tartar to foamy, soft peaks, add sugar and continue beating to stiff peaks. Pipe closed coils with a rim 2-3’’ in diameter onto a silpat or parchment paper lined baking sheet. Cook for 1 ½ hr- 2 at 200F or until dry, not coloured. Let cool in oven. Store in an airtight container if not assembling right away.
Chantilly
1 c whipping cream
2 Tbsp sugar or to taste
1 vanilla bean or drops of aroma of choice
Rhubarb compote
Cube a bunch of rhubarb stalks, 4-5. Stay away from the leaf ends (toxic). Toss with 1 cup or so of sugar. Let sit for an hour or so.
Remove the accumulated juice and reserve to adjust the consistency (reserve rest for another purpose). Cook up half the rhubarb, add a couple of handfuls of strawberries and some of the juice, cook down to compote (10min). Season with a pinch of salt, a squeeze of lemon and honey (or Labrador tea syrup) to taste.. Allow to cool, stir in the fresh rhubarb (the other half).
Nancy Hinton
In response to Carolynn who tasted Pavlova in New Zealand (one of the highlights of her trip) and so was happy to see it on this page, but she was worried about how 'easy' it really was going to be when trying it out on the weekend..
Hi Carolynn,
In Australia, I think they put cornstarch in the meringue or some odd thing; whatever, there are a zillion recipes. I just used the idea more as an inspiration, using a classic French meringue, with the whipped cream and compote. Obviously, there are three components and each takes some time, but each element is quite easy, definitely doable at home. But 'easy' is relative I know. For someone who never bakes or cooks, this might seem daunting, but as far as elegant desserts go, it's easy enough. When I say that, I mean you don't have to be a pro pastry chef to give it a go.
The things to look out for:
-Not overcooking or undercooking the meringue. You want to make sure the oven is hot enough to get the drying process going but not so hot that it browns. You can start at 225F and then turn it down to 200F after 20-30 min, but if you see browning at any point, turn it down. Leave it in the oven until it is pretty crisp and dry at least an hour and a half, even two. If it's underdone, it will be stick-to-your-teeth chewy, better leave it longer in a low oven if you're not sure. You want crisp (hence the 'avoid humid weather' warning) since the meringue is there for textural crunch, and the toppings will soften it slightly.
-You can just spoon the meringue onto the lined baking sheet to cook too, you can make whatever shapes you want, one big one or little individual ones. I like piping concentric coils because you can make a rim to hold the stuff.
-Not overwhipping the cream (you don't want butter). Just go to peaks that hold, stopping before it gets grainy. -The fruit mixture should be seasoned to taste. Add as much sweetener as you like. Even some vanilla or lemon or spices if you like..
-Generally, this is a dish that is best assembled and served shortly.
When the cream and fruit go on, the meringue will soften up after a few minutes, which is what you want, but too soon, and it will become a soggy mess.
That's the thing with recipes - there can be so many qualifiers and details that can be added to help ensure good results. Some things I don't think to say because it's common sense to me, and then also because I don't want to go on and on. But, I could; there are always so many variables.. It depends on the ingredients, the weather, the equipment, the skills of the cook.. There isn't much black and white in cooking. But the more you cook, the more able you are to make better judgements and use recipes as mere guidelines, or for inspiration.
Have fun and good luck!!
Nancy Hinton
in Desserts, Dish, Ingredient, Spring
|
Post a Comment
Reader Comments