soupnancy

Well at least here and now, with the weather hitting sub-zero, mussels on the mind, and doable with ingredients that are always handy..

Like with my favourite veg or smell, my favourite anything is always changing - a fleeting love affair, but this sauce, in all it’s variations is a keeper no matter what - so old school in essence, so versatile, so comforting, impossible to forget for long..

This week, I was craving mussels, so I made the sauce and while it was on the stove, I went out for mussels, it usually easy to find fresh specimens at this time of year, but didn’t find any worth buying, and so ate it with veal, the next night over pasta, delicious. I eventually got my mussels and made another batch – yum. Since, I’ve eaten it with bread and butter, rice and veg, ham and pintade. I know I’m a sauce girl, but wow does this one make me sing. It really hits the spot when you’re eating alone on a cold night, but it would equally fit in over a sexy dinner for two.

It’s more ‘cuisine de grand mère’ than modern, definitely bordering on classic French, which no doubt explains why you can’t go wrong.. I’m sure many of you have one like it in your arsenal, and if not, well you definitely should. In French cooking speak, I guess it would be a velouté, a riff on a poulette, but who cares, this is how it goes..

Keep in mind that many ingredients can be omitted or added; the basics are onions, white wine, stock, cream, mustard, plus aromatics of choice, a bit of bacon is always a good idea. You could always add more stock and make soup. Add potatoes and clams or corn, you have chowder.. You could bake chicken or pork in it too. Some tomato added in is a nice addition if in the mood. And yes, you could omit the bacon, add more veg, maybe some broccoli, and serve it with a nut studded pilaf for a winner meatless meal. As you can see, the options are endless.

Regardless of how you serve it, I recommend a green salad on the side for crisp, refreshing crunch to balance all that savoury richness.

The best sauce ever

For mussels, poultry, veal, pork, or just about anything

8 p+

 2 c mirepoix (1 small onion, 1 stick celery, 1 small carrot, 1 small leek), chopped

1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil and/or butter

3 strips bacon, chopped

200 g button mushrooms, chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 tsp each thyme, fennel seed, chilli flakes

1 bay leaf, 1 clove

1 c white wine

1 L duck or chicken stock (or water), even beef or veal stock

½-1 c heavy cream

3 Tbsp old fashioned mustard or Dijon

s.q. (to taste):

lemon juice

Tabasco or hot sauce

Fresh herbs optional: dill, parsley, chives

Grated nutmeg

Salt and pepper

Sweat vegetables with fat, bacon and mushrooms in a big sauté pan or pot, ok to caramelize slightly too, then add garlic and dry herbs and spices. After a minute or two, pour in wine and reduce down. Add stock and simmer 10 minutes, add cream and reduce slightly, another 10 minutes or more depending on the consistency you desire. Season to taste with mustard and other seasonings. Depending on your stock, how much cream you used, how finely you chopped your veg, your pot and etc, the consistency will vary – you can adjust it by reducing down (watching the taste) or adding a little cornstarch slurry, although I don’t usually find it necessary. If you are using it to sauce fish or meat, then you might want it on the thick side, but if you are using it for mussels, then keep it on the brothy light side, throw your mussels in (make sure your pot is big enough) and crank it for 5 minutes or until they open. Enjoy.