soupnancy

Cookbook picks for cooks or serious ‘foodies’, à la Jeffrey Steingarden, whom I love

http://www.vogue.com/culture/article/books-holiday-feast/

Champagne from 19^th century recovered from shipwreck miraculously intact; experts taste honey and chanterelles..  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/worlds-oldest-champagne-uncorked-after-rescue-from-shipwreck/article1802779/

Eureka Moments: Where Culinary Inspiration Comes From

http://www.theatlantic.com/food/archive/2010/11/eureka-moments-where-culinary-inspiration-comes-from/66597/

Fascinating debate on biotechnology vs. sustainability in agriculture via Marion Nestle  http://www.economist.com/debate/days/view/607

( http://www.foodpolitics.com )

Cuisine Canada Cookbook Award winners http://cuisinecanadascene.com/2010/11/06/2010-canadian-culinary-book-award-winners/

Gold Medal Plates – a roster of top Mtl chefs participate this year; Martin Juneau takes it to go represent Que in Cdn. finals  http://www.goldmedalplates.com/overview.html

A few very subjective resto reviews:

Les Conservent

I loved this restaurant.  I’ve always been a fan of Stelio’s food, and this little neighbourhood restaurant delivers his clean, elegant, savoury style with simple comforting food at a surprisingly small price.  He wasn’t there the night I went and it didn’t matter.  What a luxury too to have a top sommelier on hand to help you with a simple glass of good wine, to see a wine list that is short but heavy on interesting finds, passion behind.  Even if it’s a Wednesday night and you’re not out for a ‘tasting dinner’, it’s nice to sample something different by the glass, to get to know a new producer..  We had green salads and gnocchi, quail and bavette - not an extravangant meal, but top notch nonetheless, because everything was just so, and we sopped up every last bite.  Delicate, understated quality.  A classy everyday bistro meal in a casual setting that qualifies as fine dining.  What everyone else in this goddamn city is trying to do, but not many hit the mark.  

http://lescs.com/restaurant.html

L’Assommoir Notre Dame – Bustling scene, but I don’t recommend it if you care about food

Amateur hour; the menu is a hack job.  Drawn in by the ambiance, I returned a second time.  No more.  Besides some palatable acras de morue (with an overly sweet sauce that I was able to temper with lemon wedges), I have little positive to say.  It’s not even just the lack of food quality, but the pretence of promoting good food and wine that gets me.  Be a bar and that’s fine, but don’t pretend otherwise, even if you have an extensive wine list (however ho hum by the glass).

Dry chicken on a stick (with a lime wedge and grape tomato), accompanied by a soy dipping sauce, way over-cooked shrimp, ribs that don’t want to fall off the bone, but solid mashed potatoes (oh I almost forgot that one delish thing).  I tasted quinoa that was so off and so bitter, I didn’t know what to think.. I was unable to swallow it, my body telling me it was poison before I had time to question.  The weird thing is that I didn’t recognize the unpleasant flavour; it didn’t taste like burnt or sour anything.  As a chef, I am in tune with my tastebuds and know off (and on) flavours, can pinpoint a vegetable that has spent too much time out of the fridge or meat that is ‘aged’, a cheese that is supremely fresh, a wine that has a whiff of cork, that mystery spice in a sauce or whatever.  This was a new taste for me in food– metallic and astringent, like turpentine or mouldy bark, in my quinoa!  The waiter said it must be the coriander.  Hello! I know what coriander tastes like and I love it, I have never ever wanted to spit it out.  Ok, they removed said dish from the bill, but stayed clear from us from then on.  Being in the business, I understand that they thought we were just another couple of fussy chicks who can be a pain in the ass because they don’t like coriander.  But this was bad food being served to people who knew the difference (and who love coriander!).  I never send food back, I never make a deal; I just want to have a good time even if I’m not impressed.  But I do agree with my girlfriend sending it back.  At the end of the day, I cringe at indifferent purveyors of disguised crap.  For the record, I also generally don’t say too much about restaurants unless I have something good to say.  It takes a generous side of attitude and ignorance to change that..

P.S.  It dawned on me later that that awful taste was probably Tequila, cheap ass Tequila poured over our dish (not flambéed), or too much of it half flambéed.  When I told my girlfriend, she said, ‘Oui!! Mais en tous cas, du quinoa au Tequila c’est crissement pas une bonne idée’. No kidding. 

Brasserie T – a welcome addition to the Mtl dining scene; a good all purpose dining option; worth a visit

I was totally charmed by this classic bistro menu and the sleek, modern room and design.  I salivated over the idea of straightforward bistro fare expertly prepared with choice ingredients, thinking I was in for a fine-tuned ‘nouveau’ Express experience.

The service was very enthusiastic, if unpolished - young, which explains that.

There were exceptional sweetbreads, a solid brandade, amazing bread, ultra fresh Village Bay oysters.  There was a dull goat cheese beet gratin starter (although you could tell the goat cheese was ultra fresh, high quality).  And then I got my beef tartare that was heavily doused in Tabasco.  I like heat and I enjoy acidity but this was excessive - so unfortunate to see the perfectly cubed top notch meat opaque with dressing.  The raw quail egg wasn’t enough to save it.  The accompanying salad was also overdressed (same person?). Freshly torn pristine lettuce leaves just about ruined, another example of primo ingredient neglect.  I was inclined to LOVE this restaurant, so with positive momentum and many strong points, drinking champagne in good company, I finished content.  But what was up with that tartare?  There is no way anyone with a palette tasted it before serving.  I wanted to love Brasserie T more than I did; but all round, there was a definite lack of finesse that I don’t associate with the Toque name.  I would go back but with different expectations and order anything but the tartare.  Then again, the tartare might be a fine idea.  I do have confidence in the Toque name.  20 years of avant garde quality on the trickier fine dining front; I’m quite sure they will be able to nail the bistro.

http://brasserie-t.com/

Montreal Restaurants for Wine 

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Urban+Expressions+Where+like+drink/3524408/story.html

Book releases in which we are featured (coming out now):

-American Terroir, by Rowan Jacobsen - among a whole lot of interesting reading,
there is a full chapter called 'Little Truths' with us 
http://www.rowanjacobsen.com/books/american-terroir

-A la Bonne Franquette - a Quebec cookbook showcasing 80 chefs throughout the
regions and their favourite home recipes.  Ok, it's me and a stupid salad that
no one should need a recipe for (especially edited down), but we really do eat
a 'something' salad like this every day (tomatoes and something green, with something crunchy, something pickled, something protein, a dash of wild, salt and peppa, green onions and lots of good olive oil..  http://www.cuisineduquebec.com/livre/a-la-bonne-franquette

Don't forget about our Mush fest Oct.15-31 
http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/wild-mushroom-event-october/



Soundbite science on tasting and music :  Food tastes better when listening to music you like, sweet and salty taste less with increased volume while lettuce seems crunchier..

http://tinyurl.com/2w5gpex

The IPad Wine list is a hit  I don’t need it - definitely fine with a well put together list with some detail and a good sommelier, no matter how much I was spending.  And there is no doubt that it can break up conversation and alienate dining partners.  From a restauranteur’s point of view too, you have to sell a whole lot of wine to pay for gadgets.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/09/15/dining/15ipad.html

Bar F  Café Ferreira's little sister on Jeanne Mance in the Quartier des Spectacles..  I tried it and quite liked my meal.  On a nice night, this terrasse is hard to beat, the Montreal street ambiance enveloping you.  The kitchen delivered with simple, fresh food, those savoury Portugese flavours plus a touch of flare.  Not much in the way of wine by the glass but the the few choices satisfied, even surprised. Most notable - ultra fresh fish! Yum.

http://www.fbar.ca/

Menu trends in NYC

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/09/five_big_menu_design_trends_of_2010.php

Michael Pollan on US food recalls and the real cost of cheap food

http://www.grist.org/article/food-michael-pollan-on-egg-recall-and-the-high-costs-of-cheap-food/

Oyster fest in Montreal Sept 5^th for a good cause

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Love+oysters+Here+fest/3453669/story.html

Mario Batali opens an all Italian food hall.  Will this be the next celebrity chef-food trend?  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/08/first-look-at-culinary-funhouse-eataly.php

Patrice Demers, Montreal’s beloved pastry chef, opens restaurant with Marc André Jette in October in Old Montreal  

http://www.les400coups.ca/

Darina Allen, an inspiration Irish chef and teacher

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/When+Darina+Allen+says+fresh/3435975/story.html?cid=TheGazetteFoodandWineNewsletter_August2010



Watering down for more flavour  I love Harold McGee.  Especially when his scientific observations reinforce my own experience.  Over years of making sauce, soup and vinaigrette, when doing my final tweaking - adjusting salt, sweet, acid, bitter and umami with a touch of this or that, I have learnt that sometimes what's missing is none of those, but a splash of water!  I also like diluted espresso and diluted juice, so go figure. 

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/07/28/dining/28curious.html?ref=dining

A great article about Magnificent Montreal, culinary and otherwise; you might even learn a fascinating detail or two about our history as well..

http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/magnificent-montreal/6

The Paleo Diet-  Slightly ridiculous if you’re following strict guidelines; after all there have been some positive innovations since then like many cultivated fruit and veg…. But of course, cutting out refined and processed foods can only do wonders, and you can eat as much meat as you like.  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/health/trying-the-paleo-diet-be-prepared-for-caveman-crankiness/article1640404/

Restaurant/bar design trends

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/06/meet_the_new_school_restaurant_design_trends_of_2010.php



Restaurant openings in Montreal - lots going on...

Brasserie T, Normand Laprise's new bistro on Jeanne Mance in Jazz Fest central is bound to be a hit, like a fine-tuned L'Express is my guess

Apparently, Café Ferreira is spawning a less upscale, lettered spot too- Bar F next door 

French:  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/et-voici-la-brasserie-t/

English:  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Introducing+Brasserie/3186166/story.html

And La Montée goes back to its roots with a small place on St-Laurent (Mile End).

Tuck shop - a promising new restaurant in St-Henri, opening soon..

Still in the soft-open stage, this market cuisine bistro is bound to become a neighbourhood favourite with its cool setting and sharp food.  Opening in a week or two for reservations:

4662 Notre Dame O. (de Courcelle), 514-439-7432

L'un des sens on Laurier  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/lun-des-sens/

Restaurant/bar design trends

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/06/meet_the_new_school_restaurant_design_trends_of_2010.php

La Moule – l’aliment de demain?  Mussels - a sustainable, super food (French link)..

http://www.lesechos.fr/info/metiers/020593300942-et-si-la-moule-etait-l-aliment-de-demain-.htm

It looks like we haven’t learnt much about taking care of our food supply over the years - nor from the Romans, or Monks or the Irish potato famine, not to mention recent food catastrophes in the developing world and here - food scares, environmental disasters, wasted land .. Monocultures, monopolies and big agribusiness might do short term wonders for the economy, but are never good in the big picture, even devastating.  Local and sustainable, c’mon!

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/eat-up-we-may-soon-witness-the-decline-and-fall-of-a-food-empire/article1609951/

Palourde Royale - A Hilarious TV moment featuring a Geoduck clam, a sushi chef and a cracked up crew.  ‘Y’a vraiment de quoi avoir un fou rire pendant cet extrait de l’émission des kiwi et des hommes.’

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrtyIqSzoYI  Ça vaut les 5 minutes!!



Global interest in Poutine - it won’t stop

This is not something I’m ashamed of as a Quebecker; c’mon, pumped up or not, poutine is delicious.  Personally, I like it ‘normal’ - as in fries, sauce and squeaky (kwi-kwi in French) cheese.  I do not object to a better real stock based sauce and home cut fries, and savoury additions, but please leave the squeaky cheese alone.  And no seafood.  Oh one more thing for Vancouver, why put it on pizza?  I guess we all take inspiration from other cultures and do what we want with it, but funnily, when it’s a part of our own heritage, we tend to like it more or less left alone.  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/poutine-quebecs-accidental-delicacy-becomes-global-haute-cuisine/article1578242/

Haute stoner cuisine?  I don’t doubt that altered states have inspired certain chefs’ creations, and for sure, flavour forward food that is salty, sweet, greasy and umami rich, ie. Tasty! can be associated with munchie food, but..  That same food is just as tasty to anyone in an indulgent mood, and many people enjoy a relaxed setting with no fancy tableware or courses (no need for drugs to enjoy all of the above).  I just cringe at the stretch here; why do we have to label everything?  If it makes us better understand one another ok; who knows I might end up using this term too if it lasts long enough to mean something.  Who knew that ‘nouvelle cuisine’ or the despised ‘foodie’ word would end up sticking around.  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/19/dining/19pot.html?ref=dining

Patrice Demers and Normand Laprise on the roster at the StarChefs intertational conference in Septemper  http://www.starchefs.com/events/icc/2010/html/index.shtml

Increasing allergies:  Several experts give their opinions  http://roomfordebate.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/05/16/the-squishy-science-of-food-allergies/?ref=dining 

Fair trade- a reminder of the importance to seek out the logo when it comes to coffee, chocolate, tea and etc.

http://www.gremolata.com/Articles/972-Fair-Trade-101-A-Shoppers-Guide.aspx

Chia seed oil– a new super food on the market http://www.gremolata.com/Articles/970-Chia-Not-Just-Your-Little-Green-Pet.aspx

Food writer gets kicked out of Marc Forgione’s NYC restaurant for scolding the chef for yelling at a waiter

http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/05/11/why-i-got-kicked-out-of-a-restaurant-on-saturday-night/

Although most people seem to think he did the right thing in standing up to the chef, I disagree; I like what Rulman had to say.  Even if the guy is a jerk, and blasting your staff in earshot of customers is definitely unprofessional, it is out of place for the customer to walk into the kitchen and tell the chef how to do his job.  Who knows what was going on there.  Said customer can still be rightly displeased with his experience and register a complaint or walk out, and blog about that. 

http://ruhlman.com/2010/05/restaurant-workers-restaurant-patrons%E2%80%94disconnect-remains.html

A spotlight on Canada in Food and Wine:  Montreal’s DNA sommelier Alex Cruz, Philippe de Vienne’s spice shop, the ultimate locavore dining experience at Stadtlander’s, an Ontario chef prodigy, best eats in Montreal, Vancouver and Toronto, and more...  http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/canadas-wine-and-food

Environmental causes for cancer, the evidence mounts; but in the food realm, it’s easy enough to avoid by choosing natural, whole, unprocessed foods.  http://www.foodpolitics.com/2010/05/presidential-panel-says-choose-organics/

The oil spill and seafood in Louisiana, devastating – for the fishermen and for eaters.  For now there is a rush on local seafood, no one knowing what the future holds.  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/07/us/07food.html

The complete rundown on the oil spill, politics and all  http://www.grist.org/article/2010-05-07-gulf-of-mexico-oil-spill-angst-edition-bp/

Protesters target Thomas Keller  When are the animal rights activists going to find something better to do than harass the best, most conscientious chefs just because they have a little foie gras on their menu, when so many hack restaurants and fast food operations are committing way bigger ethical crimes?  None of these chefs touch feedlot beef or pesticide ridden vegetables.  For quality and taste and principle, and at a substantial cost to their business, they don’t source from the industrial food chain like most restaurants and superstores and average families.  I bet if you dug into pantries, these protesters would have more to be ashamed about than Thomas Keller.     http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/05/foie_gras_protestors_turn_to_per_se_bouchon_french_laundry.php

James Beard Awards: Daniel takes best restaurant, another Daniel best chef (Twelve Madison Park) http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/05/new_yorkers_sweep_all_major_awards_at_the_james_beards.php

James Beard food book and media awards :  Among the highlights: Colman Andrews won the award for Cookbook of the Year for his The Country Cooking of Ireland, and Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home by won for General Cooking. Serious Eats took home the award for top food blog, best Newspaper Food Section went to The Washington Post, and CHOW won for best website.http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2010/05/2010-james-beard-foundation-awards-winners.html



The ultimate French fry.  For cooks only, very interested foodies, or anyone who wants to know how far some cooks go in the pursuit of perfection.  Whether you decide to settle for a lesser frite or not, it’s still enlightening to understand what’s at the bottom of this favourite dish.  http://www.cookingissues.com/2010/04/27/the-quest-for-french-fry-supremacy-part-1/

The annual list - S. Pelligrino’s top 50 restaurants in the world: Noma (Denmark) bumps El Bulli and the Fat Duck down one http://www.theworlds50best.com/awards/1-50-winners

Food and Music – looks like a great show

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/When+food+rock+roll+harmonize/2958803/story.html 

Chefs out west go nuts with takes on poutine – I love it..  Anything for national unity.  I’m not sure about all this poutine pizza though.  And they think a galvaude is weird?

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/poutine-conquers-the-west/article1549529/

Quebec products of interest from the SIAL  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Tasty+treats+from+Quebec/2958807/story.html

An interview with Anne Sophie Pic, (French female chef with 5 michelin stars between her two restaurants) http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2010/04/interview-with-annesophie-pic.html

Françoise Kayler, ex La Presse food critic and a grande dame in the Quebec food world, passes away suddenly in her sleep  http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/201004/24/01-4273891-la-critique-culinaire-francoise-kayler-est-decedee.php

Will Asian carp be the next Chilean Sea Bass as Silverfin? If it tastes like crab, I’ll do my part to help control stocks.  http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2010/04/asian-carp-the-next-chilean-sea-bass.html

Iceland volcano – a reminder that local food makes sense  http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2010/apr/19/iceland-volcano-fruit-vegetable-shortages

More about Kopi Lowak, those cherished civet turd coffee beans  Now that the trend has become somewhat of an industry, there are nuances to understand and questions to ask to make sure you’re getting the real shit.  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/18/world/asia/18civetcoffee.html

Cilantro haters – try changing your patterns to get over the hump and start appreciating those aldehydes..  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/04/14/dining/14curious.html

Vegans might consider eating oysters, and the rest of us should most definitely be digging in!  http://www.slate.com/id/2248998/

BBQ sundae – Good food repackaged for convenience, a cute name –winner, no doubt! http://obsbite.blogspot.com/2010/04/behold-barbecue-sundae.html

Staff service notes from David Chang’s new resto, Ma Peche offer a glimpse of what goes into a restaurant meal..  Some find this crazy, but I don’t – there are just so many details to get right.  Then again, it’s probably ‘hell’ to work for me too. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/04/this_is_exactly_how_crazy_it_is_to_work_at_ma_peche.php



Small production Seaweed fed Gaspesie lamb (L'agneau de Gaspésie nourri aux algues, Bergerie du Margot ) is on the menu at Detour Bistro as of April 1st, their annual spring ritual..  www.detourbistro.com

A lack of slaughterhouses impedes the the locavore movement.   It’s the same story here, since over the years, the industrialization of food meant a shift to fewer, bigger slaughterhouses, the little local guys shut out..  And now, we want them back!  But not in our backyard?! http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/us/28slaughter.html

Anti foie gras animal rights activists nail the ‘wrong’ chef.. What a joke.  Why don’t they focus on factory farmed meat?  Meanwhile, other targeted chefs like David Chang are fighting back with more foie gras and complimentary foie gras appetizers.

http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2010/03/ducking_controversy_telepan_re.html

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/03/on_the_house_4.php

Death of young English chef stirs up talk about industry work week  http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2010/mar/26/death-nathan-laity-restaurants-chefs

Better industrial beef woos some chefs, while others balk, preferring smaller, artisanal operations with grass fed cattle.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/24/dining/24beef.html?ref=dining

Chefs teach the academics!  To think that a couple of decades ago, there was nothing culinary respectful enough for ‘serious’ study..  How times change.

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2010/03/23/AR2010032300718.html

Scary food slideshow http://www.grist.org/article/2010-03-10-12_things_you_should_never_put_in_your_mouth-slideshow

‘Locavore’ meets Feminism?  The Femivores Dilemna  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/14/magazine/14fob-wwln-t.html

La Cabane  Dany St-Pierre does upscale sugar shack inspired meals in the old port for maple season  http://www.lacabane.ca/

Our Maple menu starting Easter weekend  http://soupnancy.squarespace.com/maple-easter-menu/

IP (Importation Privé) night at Toque March 24^th   All kinds of interesting wine (10 plus houses present) and bouchées (cocktail dinatoire) for 95$ - sounds pretty darn good! http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Evenements.php

Milk Mayonnaise http://leitesculinaria.com/32983/writings-milk-mayonnaise.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+leitesculinaria%2FPaJB+%28Leite%27s+Culinaria%29&utm_content=Yahoo!+Mail

Umami in a tube  http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2010/03/umami-in-a-tube.html

But doesn’t umami already come in many tubes?  Ketchup, anchovy paste, olive paste, miso..  Ok, so this is a new mix to simplify the punching up process.  While using a touch of soy or mushroom powder or worchestershire or fish sauce, a grating of Parm or a pinch of seaweed are all more recipe specific ways to umami a dish, I understand the appeal of concocting a universal magic condiment.  I myself make a ‘sauce speciale’ which is a unami rich spiced up gastric to finish my meaty preparations, sauces, soups and braises. 

A great article about eating rabbit – ‘Don’t tell the kids’  I say try to tell your kids about the chickens they are eating.  Knowing the whole story, knowing where their food comes from in general will only make them better omnivores.  Killing a chicken or a rabbit, it’s all the same thing.  I love that the NYTimes is being more in your face about food issues and eating right.  Americans are obviously way more fickle and squeamish than Quebeckers; rabbit is big here.  Although there is an urban bunny set that I do come across every spring.  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/03/dining/03rabbit.html

Backyard bunnies http://www.good.is/post/backyard-bunnies-are-the-new-urban-chickens/

Foodies, farmers and pet lovers voice their conflicting opinions on rabbit

http://dinersjournal.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/03/02/the-outtakes-from-the-rabbit-cover/

Molecular Gastronomy – dead or alive?  With El Bulli closing, and the Italian Govt banning certain ingredients and techniques, the speculation and opinions on the subject run higher than ever  http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2010/mar/04/italy-molecular-gastronomy-blumenthal-adria

Loblaws takes sustainable fish initiative, with a plan to eliminate the red list species; of course it will take until 2013 for this to be official(?).

http://www.greenpeace.org/canada/en/press/press-releases/loblaws_redlist_fish

Montreal Gazette overview of Highlights festival

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/index.html

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Gallery+High+Lights+nouvelle+Portuguese/2641297/story.html



Bits and Bites February 2010

Where's the Montreal en Lumiere round up?  No one is talking much about the festival events or critiquing the meals??  Besides a few tweets and some brief and random reviews about everything but the food served, few are speaking up..  Meanwhile most of the events were booked.  It's bizarre.  Maybe they are saving it for a post festival essay (once the chefs are gone).

A snapshot of Eastern township chefs' dinners  http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/shopchopeat/default.aspx

On the hot ticket at Toqué  http://www.cyberpresse.ca/opinions/chroniqueurs/marie-claude-lortie/201002/26/01-4255471-arola-rocker-moleculaire.php

Greening the Olympics  Not food related per say, but Olympics talk is everywhere these days, and this proposition makes so much sense – I’m in!  http://www.grist.org/article/2010-02-16-want-to-green-the-olympics-stop-moving-them-around

Pork dinners are the big thing  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/02/the_breslins_suckling_pig_dinners_a_new_challege_to_bo_ssam.php

Aquaponics – a greener greenhouse with fish to eat  http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/18/garden/18aqua.html

Great Canadian Food and Food Stories with Nathalie Cooke :  Professor Nathalie Cooke, Editor in Chief of Cuizine, will give a lecture on Thursday, February 11 at 6:30pm at the Eleanor London Côte Saint-Luc Public Library on the rich history and culture of Canadian food.  http://elcslpl.org/programs/courseslectures/courses.htm

Aphrodisiacs on the menu

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/02/10/dining/10erotic.html?

The Naked truth about aphrodisiacs, some recipes

http://leitesculinaria.com/9995/writings-history-of-aphrodisiacs.html?

The new chef at Laloux is Seth Gabrielse, a Racha Bassoul protégé 

http://endlessbanquet.blogspot.com/2010/01/calling-all-anise-fans-calling-all.html

Yoga and foodie culture meet and collide

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/27/dining/27yoga.html

Mile End, the new Montreal style Jewish deli in NYC can’t keep up with demand

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/02/following_meat_shortages_week_old_mile_end_closes_to_regroup.php

Michael Pollan talks simple food rules on Oprah

http://www.grist.org/article/2010-01-28-michael-pollan-sets-food-rules-on-oprah

Bits and Bites January 2010

Think, don’t just drink – a book about wine

Keep an open mind, be attentive, trust your taste, rely on an emotional response..  This isn’t only the best way to enjoy wine, but food and people too, life! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/book+lesson+just+drink+Think/2502385/story.html

Enough with mac and cheese  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/01/enough_with_the_mac_n_cheese_where_is_doesnt_belong.php

Deep fried mac and cheese cropping up on Canadian menus  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/deep-fried-mac-n-cheese-the-ultimate-comfort-food/article1419919/

El Bulli shuts for a break in 2012 http://www.lemonde.fr/europe/article/2010/01/26/le-restaurant-el-bulli-fermera-en-2012-et-2013_1297130_3214.html

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/27/dining/27adria.html?ref=dining

The new and improved whisk  http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2010/01/whisk-squisk.html

Gordon Ramsay swings by Monmagny to hunt goose with the chef from Le Manoir des Érables for his show, the F-word. http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/gordon-ramsay-a-montmagny/

Michelin leaks again; In the UK, Gordon Ramsey loses a star, Ducasse picks up another   http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2010/jan/15/michelin-guide-restaurants

Montreal Restaurant recommendations for 2010 by Robert Beauchemin and Marie Claude Lortie (La Presse)

http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/restaurants/201001/11/01-938052-ou-aller-manger-cette-annee.php

Poutine making inroads south of the border

http://ca.news.yahoo.com/s/capress/100111/national/poutine_across_the_border

Epicurious top ten trends in and out for 2010

http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/11/epicurious-predicts-top-ten-food-trends-for-2010.htm

Everybody is in love with David Chang; Marie Claude Lortie of La Presse raves about his cookbook, introducing him to Franco-Montrealers

http://www.cyberpresse.ca/vivre/recettes/201001/04/01-935872-en-quete-de-delicieusete-avec-david-chang.php

Eater's top 38 essential NYC restaurants (more neighbourhood bistro than fancypants)  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2010/01/38.php



Bits and Bites December 2009

Best of 2009 in Montreal Restos (le Voir)

http://www.voir.ca/publishing/article.aspx?zone=1&section=21&article=68522

Lesley Chesterman’s top ten picks for high end restaurants in 2009 (Montreal Gazette) http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Montreal+high+restaurants+2009/2380076/story.html

Celebrating Kwaanza, an African holiday

http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/12/celebrating-kwanzaa.html

Dana McCauley's food trend predictions

http://cuisinecanadascene.com/2009/12/15/canadian-food-trend-predictions/

Cookbooks to buy

http://cookingwithamy.blogspot.com/2009/12/best-cookbooks-of-2009.html

http://christiescorner.com/2009/12/09/cookbooks-by-people-i-know-and-like/

And other holiday foodie gift ideas

http://simplyrecipes.com/recipes/holiday_gift_ideas_2009/

A Montreal guide:

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Gift+ideas+foodies+your+life/2344368/story.html

Ideas from Ontario:

http://www.gremolata.com/Articles/869-Top-Foodie-Gifts-for-2009.aspx

Once you get talking big $, I'd include a circulator, a VitaMix, only after a real dishwasher.  (Too bad my boyfriend doesn't read my blog).

A renewed interest in Sorghum, the maple syrup of the south

http://www.chow.com/blog/2009/12/sorghum-the-new-pancake-pour/

Fancy food carts hit big city streets in the U.S. while we still wait on wieners in Montreal.. http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/12/celeb-chef-food-carts-in-new-york-chicago-and-los-angeles.html

Montreal Highlights Festival starting Feb.18

With Portugal as the featured country, New Orleans as the spotlight city and the Eastern Townships the Quebec region to get to know better..

http://www.montrealenlumiere.com/volets/table/en_bref_en.aspx

Montreal restaurant closings, openings and rumours

http://www.cyberpresse.ca/opinions/chroniqueurs/marie-claude-lortie/200911/14/01-921716-fourneaux-et-fermetures.php

Normand Laprise and Thermador – Les Produits Locaux videoclips featuring the chef visiting local producers with simple recipes ideas to encourage the average cook to eat local.

http://www.thermadorrealfood.ca/index_fr.html

Cuisine Canada Cookbook Awards – The winners

http://www.lib.uoguelph.ca/resources/archival_&_special_collections/the_collections/digital_collections/culinary/cuisine_canada/index.html

The ten weirdest things to eat - Chicken knees, Australian grubs, wriggling lobster, blood tongue sausage and such.. A preview of Extreme Cuisine. 

http://www.timesonline.co.uk/tol/travel/holiday_type/food_and_travel/article6906033.ece

Way to go Michelle!   Montreal Pastry chef (Endless Banquet blog) is on a roll.  Some interesting recipes for the holiday season (or anytime) too.

http://endlessbanquet.blogspot.com/2009/11/christmas-in-september.html

Alongside Michelle (Obama), Sam Kass might be making a difference - even if ‘he is just a cook’.  That kind of criticism obviously really gets my back up, but whatever. It only makes me root for him more.  He seems like more of a politico or an activist than a pure bred cook, which is probably better for the agenda. She brought the circus of chefs in for show too.  Fun and games, all while getting the message across.  Slowly, who knows, the govt.- big ag affiliation might weaken if she keeps it up.

A white house chef who wears two hats http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04kass.html

Someone’s in the kitchen with Michelle

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/11/04/dining/04iron.html

Good news – a real knife shop in Montreal!  I remember fondling knives for hours in such a store in Vancouver a decade ago while my girlfriends stood by exasperated, eager to move on to shoes.  Now, I can head over to Laurier on my own and spend as much time in blade heaven as I want..  

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+most+cutting+edge+store+city/2164666/story.html

‘Table aux Saveurs du Terroir’ certification (www.agricotours.qc.ca) doesn’t seem to mean much, if this restaurant (Atelier) claims it with shrimp (not Nordic), asparagus and mangoes on the menu.  Especially at this time of year, when there is plenty of fine Quebec vegetables (and fruit too) on the market from the last harvests..  I hate to harsh on a restaurant I haven’t tried, it’s the ‘local washing’ that kills me.  Apparently only five restaurants have this certification in Montreal, whereas most (as in dozens, if not hundreds) on the high end are way more dedicated to local ingredients than this obviously demands.  Marketing can never replace soul or quality.  Why am I not surprised by this poor review.  Desserts made by Saputo says it all.  http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/latelier/

A Greener Halloween..  If you’re going to partake in the silliness of Halloween, at least consider greening it up a notch.  http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/10/23/green-tip-of-the-week-green-hallowe-en.aspx

Getting to know your meat – butchery classes in vogue

It’s not like everyone needs to get down and dirty and learn butchering, but being aware of how meat (and food in general) appears on the plate makes anyone a more thoughtful and appreciative eater. Valueing real food, opting out of the industrial system, putting some work or attention into your meal ends up being just a wee bit better for the animals, for the planet, and most absolutely for the diner.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/fashion/25meat.html

Raising prices on a whim  Yes, sometimes restaurants take advantage of some hype, especially when run by business people.  But often, what happens too, is that a restaurant that has genuinely been undercharging for too long comes into it’s own.  So as soon as they get a chance to hike their prices (to put balance sheets in line) without a curfuffle, they do. Given the food cost, the staff wages, the fixed costs and everything else, a restauranteur knows how much he/she should charge, but in this economic climate for instance, he/she might easily opt for less, in hopes of better times ahead when the prices can be realigned..  When they do, it is unfair for people to scream.  So many restaurants operate with slim to non existent profit margins, few can afford to play around.  I just don’t think anyone should be too harsh on restaurants upping prices without a second thought.  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/daniel_price_hike.php

Family run restaurants, the way of the past, and the future?  Especially in difficult economic times, the formula can provide bigger bang for the buck for sure.  Not only does passion and sincere hospitality usually shine through when the people with a personal stake are at the helm (although fatigue can show too), but the bottom line is that family costs less.  A hands on owner is generally worth 3+ employees. If we were to pay ourselves the same salary we pay our employees (per hour), we would not be in business.  And it’s hard to find employees that take the business to heart and see all the details, that will go the extra mile to do what needs to be done beyond their task list, tending to the odds and edds and surprises,  be it in dealing with a finnicky customer or flood, to running out for ice or candles or unplugging a toilet, or pitching in at the dishpit, knowing that asking for a night off is out of the question.  Not to mention the importance of striving for quality and efficiency in every move.. This kind of thoughtfulness, drive and attitude day in day out, comes naturally to business owners, but needs to be drilled into employees – and it is the key to a sucessful dining experience. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/oct/21/family-run-restaurants

Maybe Gourmet was ahead of it’s time, as opposed to lagging behind..

What Gourmet’s critics missed http://www.grist.org/article/2009-10-13-what-gourmet-magazine-critics-missed

Go Michelle go!  Planting a garden at the whitehouse,  promoting local food and healthy eating, talking food reform.., she’s off to a good start.  When it comes to attacking the sugar in America’s soda diet, and the high salt-sugar-fat mix in industrial food in general, which is so readily marketed by big ag, she will be taking on big ag.  Let’s hope she doesn’t shy away.

http://www.grist.org/article/is-michelle-obama-about-to-take-on-big-food

Another Ecoli scandal, a teacher paralyzed.. Sad and Scary yes.  But hello - Why does anyone find it surprising that contamination arises with such INDUSTRIAL food, when there are so many steps between the meat (scraps) and the customer, all being handled by big companies and spotty reglementation. Ditch Cargyll and the like; buy your food from a traceable source, get your butcher to grind your meat or do it you yourself.

E. Coli Path Shows Flaws in Beef Inspection, by Michael Moss http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/health/04meat.html?_r=1&pagewanted=all

On smart farming: it’s possible to make a living farming organic. If more green thumbs and back to the land types could be inspired by this guy, that would be great.  Because we do need more than 2% of the population growing our food if we want good food in the near future fossil fuel free world.

A farmer speaks: Richard Wiswall on the business of organic farming

http://www.grist.org/article/richard-wiswall-on-the-business-of-organic-farming/

Rules to eat by..  Michael Pollan says that culture has more to teach us than nutritionists and protect us from marketers, and is collecting tidbits of food advice for his new book. 

A well written article as usual: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/11/magazine/11food-rules-t.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

His 20 favourite food rules so far (quite humorous) http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2009/10/11/magazine/20091011-foodrules.html

Gourmet Magazine folds, very sad.  Can it be, really?  This comes as a surprise to me, especially that they only seemed to have more ads than ever. I mostly loved Gourmet, except for the second last issue (the alphabet) which I found disappointing because it felt silly and empty, a string of random recipes and pictures.  Nonetheless, I am a diehard fan of Ruth Reichl and was generally pleased with the direction she had taken the magazine; but not everyone agreed, it seems.

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2009/10/gourmet_magazine_dunzo_after_68_years.php

There are still many disappointed anglo foodies out there who grew up on Gourmet.

http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/appreciation+Fond+farewell+Gourmet/2073814/story.html

Michelin stars in NYC for 2010 http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/10/michelin-announces-2010-new-york-city-restaurant-selections.html

Smoking Cooks!  It appears that Smoking and Cooking careers correlate - Big surprise. 

In Quebec, this is even more of a reality than this San Francisco crowd could imagine.  Yes, it comes down to the kind of strung out person that is drawn to the business in the first place, and more importantly, yes, it’s the stress in the kitchen.  Finally, yes, a cook is lucky to get a 10 minute break in a non-stop ten hour shift, so can you blame him/her for making it count and taking a drag?  And I say humph to those who speak of deadened taste buds, because when you taste for a living, your taste buds become more attuned and acute, like with practicing anything, developed senses – talented ears for music, touch for the blind.  Taste is a relative thing anyway; you adjust to the gustatory environment you have (if the background is smoke or garlic or whatever your mouth smells like, it gets cancelled out when you’re used to it; we all taste subjectively and against the backdrop of our lives.)  Not to mention the fact that many cooks are super-tasters.  Like a commentator said in response to this post below, I too would be overwhelmed by any more – it would make my life unbearable.  I already taste and smell too much, more than any of my non smoking friends, by the way. So, I find this correlation funny, relevant, and not hurtful at all.  Still, I think it’s silly to make it news, like people should be worrying about the fact that the people cooking their food might, probably smoke cigarettes (one butt in a 10 hour shift!). Big fucking deal.  But it’s true.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/mbauer/detail?&entry_id=48741

So, Love enhances the creative mind, and sex impedes it, favouring analytic processing instead.  Which means sex is practical, where as love helps stimulate and expand the mind.  I know that cooking has brought out the lover and artist in me.  I think anything that keeps you in touch with your senses and nature, while forcing you to suspend logic and appreciate magic, or act like an animal from time to time encourages creative thinking, so of course love does the job.  I would think that sex would fit in there too, but that doesn’t seem to be what these scientists are saying.  Maybe because like in that Seinfeld episode, the physical part is just like taking out the garbage, it has to be taken care of to let you get on with the rest of your life..  Practical, not creative.  Science meets Seinfeld, gotta love it.

http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=does-falling-in-love-make

Copy and Clone, a web video on industrial food by louis rigaud on Vimeo – clever and on the mark, worth watching..

http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/lelevage-a-lheure-des-biotechnologies/

A list of reasons why you should avoid farmed shrimp - Yes, those cheap ones from Asia that adorn just about every restaurant menu in Montreal.  Luckily, we have our little wild Nordic shrimp to make up for it, that are widely available (for another month!).  

http://www.chow.com/media/8226

Quebec cheese contest winners  My fave Alfred comes out on top

http://www.fromagesdici.com/tout/prix_caseus.asp

Fish faux pas, Poor Obama with all he has on his plate.. But still, he is supposed to have the staff, watchdogs and resources to cover it all.  How come the default is the most harmful and controversial of scenarios? F-ing big business and small print. http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/09/obama-fish-farm-policy

Is Julia passé?  A gathering of Montreal food writers and cooks say no.

I agree.  In Julia’s time, these French dishes were exotic; whereas now they are familiar, fancy restaurant-bistro fare from the past decades we know to be delicious.  But now, we can buy the ladyfingers for the Charlotte and skip a step or two too. Green, modern cooks would probably be better off with Mastering the Art of French Cooking than with the zillions of other half-assed cookbooks out there today.  And for seasoned cooks and foodies, it is tops for inspiration or some back-track grounding.  To rediscover delicious classics like this gang did.  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+Julia+pass%c3%a9/1964049/story.html

Buddha shaped pears, from the same guys with the square watermelons.  For those of you way back who didn’t even believe my ‘true’ poire Williams story – look what is being done with the poor pears now.

http://www.boingboing.net/2009/09/04/pears-grown-in-the-s.html

Bits and Bites August 2009

From a ‘liver doctor/wine writer’ - the down- lo on alcohol and heart disease. Whatever.. it always comes down to the same thing: No silver bullet, nothing is black and white, everything in moderation including moderation. Not that any of us really thought that drinking (wine or otherwise) should have an unqualified green light.. Like with nutrition, we don’t need the scientists for that. But like this guy says, that doesn’t mean we need to stop imbibing and enjoying.

http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/23/FDF2196S5E.DTL

A panoply of interesting wine books hitting the shelves http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/08/6-new-wine-books-on-psychology-geography-snobbery-and-more.html

One Part Creativity: Zero Parts Recipe. Can just using ratios really teach me to be a better cook? by Jennifer Reese.. An insightful account on using and creating recipes, in response to Michael Rulhman’s book Ratio.

I love ratios and I hate recipes. Of course, a few basic ones are key, and a few other tried and true favourites are handy to have; cookbooks are always useful for inspiration and as back up for reference. But mostly, I think a general recipe-free approach makes for the most rewarding kind of cooking, and usually the best tasting food. And yes, even in pastry where apparently every gram matters. I have always considered a recipe but a guideline, relying more on taste and feel, coaching cooks and students to use their senses and heads, as opposed to blindly following recipes. I do admit that beginning cooks are best starting off by executing standard recipes (still without ever being a slave to them, always alert).. and with time (Yes, time! No short-cuts), instincts become more refined, and success is possible armed but with but a few ratios, the doors open for creativity and real fun. Recipes are over-rated, and strict recipes are stifling and boring. They take the magic out of cooking, and don’t account for the variability in ingredients, mood, time and place, or what’s in your garden or fridge. Set yourself free!http://www.slate.com/id/2219243/?obref=obinsite

The Trouble with Julie and Julia http://www.gourmet.com/food/2009/08/julie-julia-movie A critique of the hit movie that offers perspective.

Miso Massawippi - a local product worth trying: Organic, unpasteurized, gluten free, probiotic - most mportantly, super tasty. I like the Soya and Rice orange paste for soups, vinaigrettes. Available all over town in épicerie fines and health food stores, eg. Rachel Bery,Les Douceurs du Marché, Atwater market. www.alimentsmassawippi.com

A Slowfood event in Old Montreal featuring tastings, demonstrations and conferences with visiting chefs, guest speakers and artisans on a variety of subjects in the ‘bon, juste et propre’ vein. http://www.saveursettentations.com/33.html

Made to imbibe We’ve been enjoying the by products of fermentation for longer than we have been civilized - no wonder, go figure. http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=the-origin-of-wine

On Canada’s Horsemeat Industry It’s good to know that we should be leery of quality and the source of horse meat since the industry is so poorly regulated. http://danamccauley.wordpress.com/2009/08/17/behind-the-barn-door/

What they brought to the table, by Frank Bruni A thoughtful piece about how people act at the table provides a lens on human nature – very amusing and spot on. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/19/dining/19note.html?ref=dining

Pasta, quicker than ever (1 minute!) We soak rice noodles and many other grains and legumes to shorten cooking time, even for better results, so why not wheat pasta too? I don’t know if I would bother though; I don’t mind waiting 7-8 minutes, allowing for time to make sauce and sides. Yes, it might be useful in a restaurant, but then you would be using all that precious fridge space for tubs of soaking noodles.. And what happens with what doesn’t get sold – I’m not sure 24hr soaked noodles are so appetizing. And surely flavour would be leached out, if using good pasta.. I’m all for improvements in the kitchen, but not so much into complicating life for nothing. http://ideasinfood.typepad.com/ideas_in_food/2009/08/one-minute-pasta.html

Corn plastic, in case you’re wondering what it is and what to do with it.. You do just throw it in the garbage, but I think it was supposed to be slightly more bio-degradable than conventional plastic. Obviously, it is not something to encourage with Cargill and GMO petroleum corn behind it; best to RRR (Reduce, Re-use, Recycle). http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-12-ask-umbra-truth-corn-plastic

Debunking the meat-climate change myth – a farmer speaks out. It is not meat eating per say that is bad for the environment, but the industrial way of raising meat that is the culprit – the fossil fuel based grain diet. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-08-07-debunking-meat-climate-change-myth/

Ten links to help you know more about your food, compiled by the Culinate team.  

http://www.culinate.com/articles/features/sustainable_food_resouces_online

Union Square Café - still as popular, just not with the critics. This was one of my first restaurant cookbooks and my first NYC dining experience, so even if much time has gone by, I have a soft spot for the place. I think Danny Meyer and co. were sharp, visionary and inspiring with their Mediterranean mix of upscale and comfort food, choosing local ingredients and friendly over uppity service, quite novel at the time. There is something to be said for that, and for longevity.. Even if I know the food isn’t top notch by today’s standards, I don’t mind seeing it voted ‘most popular’ year after year. But I also know that trying to please all the customers all the time works against consistent quality; you have to have rules and systems and focus to maintain quality, especially when booked to the hilt every night. But maybe the bulk of their customers are happy with this approach, preferring the jovial atmosphere over fine tuned food and service. All the best to them.

http://events.nytimes.com/2009/08/05/dining/reviews/05rest.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Now a Pyramid shaped watermelon, after the heart shaped one and the square.. The Japanese are just crazy. http://mdn.mainichi.jp/mdnnews/news/20090718p2a00m0na017000c.html

Bits and Bites July 2009

Urban agriculture and the bio-top system

http://www.urbainculteurs.org/Les_bacs_Biotop_files/Mode%20d%20emploi%20Biotop%20web.pdf

Papilles et Molecules, François Chartier's new book on food and wine pairing is out in stores. By breaking it down to the chemical components in foods and wines, and finding matches there, marriages many of us already know instinctively or from experience are explained (say that fennel, celery and apple are related and so go well together), that curry and maple syrup and oak go together, etc.. Occasionally, this approach turns upsurprises (rosemary and noble rot!) too.. Alhthough, hardly complete, and probably not so practical in the long run, this book is fun to browse, neat andinspiring. http://www.francoischartier.ca/

Chefs on drugs.. I would hardly agree that MOST chefs are on drugs, but neither would I argue with the notion that chefs are largely personality types prone to experimentation, indulgence, rash and risky behaviour, or some sort of self-medication.. And the high octane rush and pressure of the kitchen makes them even more that way.http://www.thedailybeast.com/blogs-and-stories/2009-07-21/the-addicts-in-the-kitchen/?cid=topic:mainpromo1

Taras Grescoe on factory salmon farming Grist underlines a few salient tidbits from his book, Bottomfeeder, providing some clarity given all the industry propaganda. Also a good reminder to read this book if you haven’t already.. Bottom line here is that farmed salmon is BAD. If it is 'salmon' without any 'wild or Pacific name next to it, that is what you are buying or ordering at the restaurant.http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-15-taras-grescoe-on-factory-salmon-farming/

Old news, but the worst is Chilean salmon which is often that generic, cheap salmon sold in supermarkets and restaurants here too.

http://www.grist.org/article/2009-07-24-chilean-salmon-industry-plunges-pesticide-antibiotic-abyss/

Grant Achatz on Celebrity Chefdom and being in the kitchen or not

Do you expect the owner of a construction company to be hammering in the last nail? Most people don’t realize what goes into a meal, this kind of enterprise his kind of restaurant can be, maybe because it’s just food. But if the chef is doing the cooking himself, he is not with customers, he is not on TV, he does not have the time to be a celebrity. I have a hard time just greeting the customers once in a night because I am working, and I don’t have a huge operation and brigade. In any kind of restaurant business though, the chef has to be present, but often it's behind the scene, in the running of things, and not every night or on the line, and with a solid team working for/with him or her, for it to really work and be authentic. It can still work and even be fabulous, but then it’s slightly different, not necessarily like said chef is there cooking. Most customers don’t know the difference anyway, and would be happier to see the chef than to just eat really good food. The celebrity chef phenomenon.

http://food.theatlantic.com/back-of-the-house/should-chefs-get-out-of-the-kitchen-1.php

Osaka – the world’s greatest food city! Ok, this makes me want to fly to Osaka ASAP, and travel in general.. Even if I haven’t been, I can’t help but agree that we should be hearing about all these great eats outside Europe and NYC more in the top lists and foodie reports - how refreshing. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/jul/13/osaka-japan-best-food-city

An interview with Mark Bittman, NYTimes columnist and cookbook author, among other things.. A likeable guy with a cool job, the kind that doesn’t pop into thin air, but is built.. http://www.splicetoday.com/consume/interview-mark-bittman

So now it’s Young Butchers that are Hot, says the NYTimes: “Young Idols with Cleavers Rule the Stage” http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/08/dining/08butch.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

I say praise the lord for the rise of a craft that was being lost to big industry slaughterhouses, a return to butchering our own meat (or seeing it butchered retail) from a small local farm. Any chef seeking out quality local producers pretty much has to do it him/herself, which I’m quite used to, but I’m all about letting someone else do it – with swifter technique, in a properly refrigerated workspace. I guess I’m old enough too to not care if I’m the bloodiest or fastest or coolest, because I can hack up a carcass with precision, in record speed. I can’t help but think that these hot butchers spring from the subset of all kitchens’ most macho, most brutish elements, those that we love dearly of course; it’s a certain talent and personality type. I would like to keep one in my own kitchen, but if not, at least I know they’re out there in swelling numbers.. So, let them have their own cult following and glam space. Average consumers might wake up to real food with them around, and we cooks might actually be more productive in the kitchen with the option of outsourcing to one of our own, so all with a clean conscience, all for a better product in peace.

Blowing up Brie cheese with nitrous oxide.. Looks nasty but probably tastes great. If you’re curious, the Ideas in Food team shares their foam recipe, which is made stable by exploiting the synergy of agar and Locust bean gum.

http://www.popsci.com/diy/article/2009-07/blowing-cheese-nitrous-oxide

National Geographic report, ‘The End of Plenty’ - A good read, long and heavy, but important. I can’t believe that Mosanto and the like are still considered a part of the solution. Then again, going back to old school methods would probably mean that more people will die sooner, but probably not more than in the long run, along with the planet. Even if it’s hypocritical to say from my privileged spot in the world, I believe in sustainable at all costs. I do my little bit and I realize it’s nothing in the big picture, mostly because very few in the western world are doing much, but I still believe in it, practical or not. And I wish more of us were worrying about this at night. http://ngm.nationalgeographic.com/2009/06/cheap-food/bourne-text

The urban farmer - A pretty neat bio. Not to mention a good cause and a motto to live by, To do the best you can. But eating better is even simpler thanks to people like him. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/05/magazine/05allen-t.html?pagewanted=4&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Mapping the Mario Batali Genome.. If they are doing this for other achievers and interesting people, then why not chefs? But still, I think it’s silly - maybe the chef celebrity thing is overblown. He’s just a good cook who likes his orange crocs. http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/07/mapping-the-batali-genome.html

Canadian Chefs serve seal, with a side of contraversy: A (fluffy) New York Times article about seal on Montreal menus. Of course, seal is not on many Montreal menus, but in Northern Quebec and Canada, it is part of the culinary heritage and way of life. There isn’t much controversy either, except in Europe. If Michaelle Jean hadn’t taken that offered bite of seal heart, she would have indeed caused even more of a stir (assuming the same media coverage), insulting her hosts, and a nation she represents. Anyway, like with the foie gras issue, there are bigger fish to fry - people should worry more about their battery chicken and farmed shrimp and ‘unfair trade’ coffee.. The seal trade is miniscule in comparison, not to mention the cultural, historical roots, and that it is highly managed, and not so unethical in the big picture. In any case, I wouldn’t worry too much about seal taking off as the next big thing.. Unlike foie gras, seal isn’t that tasty to most people who didn’t grow up on it (say those freaks from the lower north shore, NFLD or up north) – think: beef tenderloin meets calf’s liver with a fishy taste. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/01/dining/01seal.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Bits and Bites June 2009

Why don't the French cook like they used to?  Of course, they do.  But no thanks to Michelin.

http://www.slate.com/id/2221245/

Chefs are interviewed for The Globe and Mail’s series of articles on salt, including yours truly, and funnily, we all pretty much reiterated the same thing - that we wouldn’t want to give up salt, but that there are many other ways to punch up flavour too. Of course, none of this would even be an issue if people stayed clear of processed and packaged foods and cooked real food.

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/special-reports/hard-to-shake/dont-pass-the-salt/article1194031/

Normand Laprise of Toqué is awarded the Order of Quebec (CHEVALIER DE L’ORDRE NATIONAL DU QUÉBEC), for his contribution to Quebec cuisine. http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Nouvelles.php

CSF start-up in Boston – A CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) program, but for fish, Lucky them! Buying fish straight from local fishermen according to their catch, so fresh as can be, no waste, more money for the fishermen, better for everybody – what a novel concept! I wish my Newfie Grandfather were around to read this. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB124421534407589317.html

New farmer’s market on Duluth, including some urban farmers http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/06/16/new-farmer-s-market-opens-in-montreal-s-plateau-district.aspx

Highwood Crossing cold-pressed canola oil - Canada’s extra virgin olive oil.. We used this oil when I was at l’Eau à la Bouche years ago, I am a big fan. It’s really unbelievably good. Orphée’s is good too, but not as flavourful. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/organic-cold-pressed-canola-oil-competes-for-the-spotlight-with-gold-standard-olive-oil/article1175917/

Would you like some GMO’s in your coffee? In case you didn’t know Monsanto was all over sugar beets too. http://www.grist.org/article/would-you-like-some-gmos-in-your-coffee/

Wreaking Haddock: How to eat sustainable fish, a video on Grist

http://www.grist.org/article/2009-ask-umbras-video-advice-on-sustainable

Big Food under Fire - Yay. But it will take more than a little Obama mania to pull them down. Thankfully, Mother Nature, more powerful than all, will bring them (and us) to our senses soon enough! http://www.slate.com/id/2219686/pagenum/all/#p2

Chefs’ Memoirs - all now, so «Anthony Bourdain»

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-calcook3-2009jun03,0,4852028.story

Bits and Bites May 2009

Montreal Chefs changing places: Eric Gonzalez to replace Marc André Jetté and Patrice Demers at Laloux.. http://www.gourmet-galopin.com/chaises-musicales/

The Case for Working with Your Hands – A terrific article about the trades, what craft does for the soul and for society.. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/05/24/magazine/24labor-t.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=crawford%20magazine%20soulcraft&st=cse

What the Financial System can teach us about food, an essay by Tom Philpott http://www.grist.org/article/2009-05-22-financial-collapse-food/

Canada’s supermarkets get failing grade on fish - No kidding, it’s atrocious. As consumers, we can help change that by speaking up and demanding information. http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/05/22/not-a-lot-of-fish-in-the-seas.aspx

Lifting the veil on industrial food: Food Inc the movie

http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/food-inc.html

Watch the trailer http://www.foodincmovie.com/

ElBulli extends opening hours http://www.gourmet.com/restaurants/2009/05/chaos-at-el-bulli

Michael Pollan on the Colbert Report http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/michael-pollan-trades-barbs-with-stephen-colbert.html

New Montreal Gazette Food blog http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/shopchopeat/default.aspx

Shitting on Alice Waters. I don’t get it. No, actually, I do get it, and I think it’s cheap, and shameful. With all she’s done, and what she stands for. I think the people dissing her mostly can’t stand feeling the guilt behind their own food choices. Yes, it doessuck to have be responsible and care about people and the planet when feeding ourselves; luckily, the reward is there in taste and healthfulness. When she celebrates an artisanal product, a lettuce or date producer, and bangs agribusiness, it wakes people up to these issues. If only to make them think about where their food comes from and make better choices, to lead people towards eating locally and sustainably, to teach kids about gardening and eating better.. How can that be bad? Who cares how many silk scarves she has? And yes, it is possible to not prioritize the checks and balances of real life, and not be an elitist. It’s called being an idealist. Or an artist or a humanist or an activist - when ideas and principles outweigh material concerns. Sure, she might be rich now, but she wasn’t for most of her life, and this is not her driving force. It is principles and down to earth passion. We need more people like her in every domain of society. You can alwayshire peeps to keep the books. There are too many people manning the books and not enough brains focused on the big picture these days – that’s our problem. Industrial agriculture, a polluted environment, sick food and obese and unhappy people, hmmph. That’s what she’s fighting. I commend her for not giving up in face of all us naysayers and lazy asses.

http://www.gourmet.com/foodpolitics/2009/05/war-on-alice-waters

http://www.eatmedaily.com/2009/05/yet-again-the-old-media-defends-alice-waters/

2009 James Beard Food Media and Journalism awards – the winners

http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/05/james-beard-foundation-2009-journalism-and-media-award-winners.html

Saving the Tamworth Pig by eating it http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090506.wltamworth06art1831

Bits and Bites April 2009

Protecting the bagel and other national treasures: http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/Protecting+bagel+other+national+treasures/1543689/story.html  Not only to protect and promote our treasures, we absolutely need to push for more meaningful labelling in general, to favour truth over sly marketing.  Mapleleaf should not be allowed to sell a pseudo product as Proscuitto.  Stores should not be allowed to sell meat or fish or anything without fully disclosing where it comes from.  It's so frustrating dealing with the lack of information out there  when trying to make good choices.  Meanwhile, shoppers who don't ask questions are being misled, supporting shoddy factory farms or slave picked tomatoes without knowing it.

Swine flu outbreak may be linked to Smithfield factory farms - surprise, surprise. http://www.grist.org/article/2009-04-25-swine-flu-smithfield

Compost collection available in Montreal!!

http://compostmontreal.com/

Sea choice sushi guide -restaurants in Vancouver and Halifax get serious

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090422.wlsushi22art1832/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090422.wlsushi22art1832

World’s 50 Best Restaurants, And a Reminder that haute cuisine matters.

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/apr/21/restaurants-chefs-recession

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/apr/21/50-best-restaurants

Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) focuses on terroir Dropping the winemaking and marketing tricks, not to mention many of his popular labels, he is dedicating himself to making original wine, with no irrigation, old-style.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/22/dining/22pour.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

Le 1608 – A cheese from the Charlevoix made in the Beaufort style from the heritage Canadienne breed of cattle http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832/BNStory/lifeFoodWine/?page=rss&id=RTGAM.20090422.wlspread22art1832

Food.com - a promising new recipe search tool ? http://www.thefoodsection.com/foodsection/2009/04/a-new-player-in-recipe-search.html

Susan Semenak writes about maple syrup and chefs who use it (like me!)

http://www.montrealgazette.com/Life/drip+anything/1497904/story.html

More Extreme Bacon http://www.epicurious.com/articlesguides/blogs/editor/2009/04/extreme-bacon-i.html?mbid=rss_epilog Every day there seems to be another bacon blog, or new"bacon explosion" type recipe riding the food waves. Could bacon possibly jump the shark? No matter how much I love it, even I am getting sick of reading and talking about it. Like Leonard Cohen said about his song, Hallelujah; no matter how fabulous, it may be time for a moratorium, not at home, but in the media at least.

Great Depression Cooking with Clara: http://greatdepressioncooking.com/Depression_Cooking/

Refreshing. Important. Intriguing. This woman in her nineties shares recipes and anecdotes from the era in a series of cooking videos, telling it like it was.You can hear heron Q, the Wednesday April 15th podacast: http://www.cbc.ca/podcasting/pastpodcasts.html?42#ref42

Doi Chaang, an ultra premium coffee from Northern Thailand, is a sun-dried cousin of Kopi Luak, the

Indonesian coffee made famous for the beans being digested by cats.

http://gremolata.com/Articles/597-Greenest-Coffee-In-The-World.aspx

Harold McGee always has something smart to say. This time, it’s about yogourt.

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/04/15/dining/15curi.html?_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Ratio, Michael Rulman’s new book: The simple codes behind the craft of every day cooking http://blog.ruhlman.com/ruhlmancom/2009/04/ratio-the-simpl.html

What a useful book this promises to be! I’ve always liked to think this way (because I hate recipes), constantly trying to figure the underlying principles out myself. Here, some of them will be spelled out - cool.

Bluefin tuna fishery collapse within 3 years

http://www.panda.org/wwf_news/?162001/Mediterranean-bluefin-tuna-stocks-collapsing-now-as-fishing-season-opens

On a related topic, there is a new book out on the sorry state of our oceans:

Sea Sick, The Global Ocean in Crisis, by Alanna Mitchell

http://www.mcclelland.com/catalog/display.pperl?isbn=9780771061165

Focused on Fish, “Bottomfeeder” by our own Taras Grescoe is a compelling (and alarming) read, offering a good overview of the situation. If you haven’t read it, please pick it up. http://www.tarasgrescoe.com/

Sadly, it is really difficult to find sustainable fish options in Montreal restaurants. Besides the over-fished wild species still featured on menus of our best restaurants, the vast quantities of cheap farmed salmon and shrimp shamelessly been gobbled down daily in bistros and chain restaurants is even more horrifying. Such environmentally devastating enterprises should be taxed out of business. Chefs should take a stand and be leaders, but if diners showed they cared more, restauranteurs would be more inclined to follow. When will we wake up? I guess it takes environmental disasters and fisheries collapsing.

Bits and Bites March 2009

Adam Leith Gollner visits California Pinot noir for a party

http://gremolata.com/Articles/566-California-Bacchanalia-Inside-The-World-of-Pinot-Noir.aspx

Let’s hope the white house garden is more than symbolic. A food policy that favours agribusiness less and sustainable, organic farmers as well as farmers’ markets would only go hand in hand with Obama’s focus on health and nutrition, as well as the environment. ‘Could a food revolution be in season?’ http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/22/business/22food.html?pagewanted=1&_r=1&partner=rss&emc=rss

Good cooks for hire, finally

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/18/dining/18cooks.html?pagewanted=2&_r=1&ref=dining

Improving the kitchenaid paddle – yes!

http://www.sideswipeblade.com/index.html

The FAT DUCK reopens

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2009/mar/11/fat-duck-reopen

Pied de Cochon Sugar Shack Opening this season..

http://www.cabaneasucreaupieddecochon.com/index_e.html

On the future of food, ideas for a sustainable system: eating less meat and dairy is a must, vertical farms are an idea. Michael Pollan says it is Gov’t subsidies in the right places and more farmer’s markets that we need.

http://communities.canada.com/montrealgazette/blogs/greenlife/archive/2009/03/09/mother-jones-on-organic-food-with-a-dash-of-michael-pollan.aspx