soupnancy

Bits and Bites, December 2014

Silly food is killing us There is indeed a fine line between haute cuisine and stupidity http://www.telegraph.co.uk/foodanddrink/11306710/The-Fat-Duck-Silly-food-is-killing-us-body-and-soul.html

'Important' Food media moments from 2014 http://food52.com/blog/11930-some-of-the-most-important-moments-in-food-media-from-2014

CTV Sunday Bite ‘best food moments of 2014’ featuring artisans, new restaurants and us foragers.. http://montreal.ctvnews.ca/video?playlistId=1.2164361&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter

The ‘best of’ lists from Montreal restaurant critics if you haven’t had your fill of annoying lists yet..  http://boucheesdoubles.net/2014/12/toutes-les-listes-de-top-restos-a-montreal-pour-2014/

‘Best of’ – Montreal Bakeries and Pastry shops by Mayssam - a useful one if you like sweets http://willtravelforfood.com/2014/05/27/montreal-best-bakeries-pastry-shops/

20 wines for under 20 (or 30$) for the holidays http://chacunsonvin.winealign.com/articles/2014/12/27/20-a-moins-de-20-ou-30-pour-decembre/

Interesting perspective of eating habits over time, countries http://www.nationalgeographic.com/what-the-world-eats/

Bits and Bites November 2014

Montreal restaurant scene booming for bust? Good article. It’s true that however exciting the scene seems, it’s a pretty sad state of affairs, fragile and not sustainable with too many restaurants for the clientele, the fickle crowd moving from one ‘hot’ thing to the next, quality and longevity not counting for much in the end.. Diners are spoiled with choice, but maybe not so longterm if it is so difficult for good ones to hang on without cutting corners or charging more while customers are checking out the others.. Construction aside, it’s a tough business for restaurant owners, yet they keep on coming. Not for the faint of heart, deep pockets help only so far. http://montrealgazette.com/life/food/the-restaurant-scene-in-montreal-is-the-boom-too-much?

Administration charge to replace tip at NY restaurant. Positive initiative. Next best thing to an all inclusive charge; until more restaurants are doing it, so the sticker shock isn’t so hard. This is just logical. So that the restaurant can pay everyone fairly according to their job, waiters guaranteed a living wage, but not exaggerated, redistributed amongst employees and to cover behind the scenes service/administration costs. http://ny.eater.com/2014/11/21/7256693/you-wont-have-to-tip-at-dirt-candy-2-0

So much for wild game on Quebec chef’s menus for now  http://plus.lapresse.ca/screens/d9c2bd87-42dd-45a9-987c-d82f12576d7f%7C_0.html

From David Kamp (The United States of Arugula; how we became a gourmet nation) A great excerpt, very interesting if Alice Waters and Jerimiah Towers mean anything to you, and if not, still a fragment of NA food history.. To think of ‘mesclun’ and local sourcing peppering French dishes as revolutionary! And I remember.. http://www.vanityfair.com/culture/features/2006/10/kamp_excerpt200610

Musician brains  I have often seen a parallel with chefs and musicians, but I will accept that they are more talented, maybe even smarter, but not however necessarily better at organising things/getting things done! http://trendinghot.net/what-playing-a-musical-instrument-does-to-your-brain/

Made in Quebec, Julian Armstrong’s new cookbook out, a review by Mayssam: http://willtravelforfood.com/2014/11/05/cookbook-review-made-in-quebec-julian-armstrong-recipe-lamb-shanks/ Lots of good stuff here, I’m featured too, but however much I love Julian, I am sad to see hack foragers featured instead of our François des Bois who is head and shoulders above, the Quebec pioneer..

Le Nez (The Empire of Scents), a film by Kim Nguyen that looks fascinating especially to an olfactory obsessed like me. Inspired by François Chartier’s ‘Papilles et Molecules, but not just food/wine focused from what I understand. Playing in Montreal as of Nov.12^th. http://www.ridm.qc.ca/fr/actualites/nouvelles/1273/le-nez-de-kim-nguyen-en-ouverture-des-ridm

Jeremiah Tower meets Tavern on the Green http://mobile.nytimes.com/2014/11/05/dining/tavern-on-the-green-hires-jeremiah-tower-as-head-chef.html Who is Jeremiah Tower? (for the youngsters) http://m.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/THE-RISE-FALL-OF-A-STAR-How-the-king-of-2906407.php

Truite au bleu – Good story about a classic dish and a badass Que chef bent on doing it in NY. http://munchies.vice.com/articles/why-trout-is-turning-blue-in-a-old-garage-in-queens

Bad restaurant reviews get more reads and likes  I don't doubt this is true, but as a chef, I don't enjoy reading a bad review. Unless I personally know it's a shitshow, it's a big co., disconnected from their customers and the day to day, or maybe with young ones too fake, hip and arrogant. But Never a 'Mom &Pop', chef owned  life&soul invested resto. Not amusing. http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2014/oct/30/negative-restaurant-review-bad-food-fun-read

Bits and Bites October 2014

Soylent interest fading - good! I hate the idea. Cooking real food does not have to be complicated and should be/can easily be a joyful part of the daytoday. http://grist.org/list/so-long-soylent-world-remembers-that-eating-rules/?utm_source=syndication&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=feed

Do Men and Women cook differently? For sure. Obviously we cannot generalize too much, everyone is different. But after 20 yrs in a professional kitchen, I would say that most of the time these points hold true : men like their gadgets, compete more, are sloppier, taste and nurture less than perform . They swear, but whine less, do what needs to be done with less fuss, beer at the end of the night as opposed to a heart to heart hash out.‎ I don't agree that the girls aren't ready for service; most question themselves and worry more than the guys. It's not smart to be cocky when it comes to MEP. But it's true that guys are often faster, again that competition thing. Sometimes there isn’t room for nitpicky, fairness or feelings. The best kitchen formula is a mix of the two types, gender aside.http://www.telegraph.co.uk/men/relationships/11161139/Do-men-and-women-cook-differently.html

Always more restaurants opening in Mtl, who can keep track? http://montreal.eater.com/2014/10/3/6906077/get-to-know-the-bumper-crop-of-new-montreal-restaurants

Eating well at the end of the road Inspiration from Alaska with a young pig farmer, the locals and chefrugees People close to the land naturally spend more time on their food, a way of life. It’s nice to see a vibrant food community so far north. Can’t help but note that with govt grants/when someone else is paying for the tunnels, the sky is the limit, crazy projects can see the light of day, and then carry on.. http://www.eater.com/2014/10/15/6971503/homer-alaska

Nitrite brief - most of our intake is natural, not necessarily a bad word.  Probably a good idea to avoid excess additives but no need to freak out over some quality charcuterie in your diet either..  http://www.takepart.com/article/2014/10/08/cured-meat-nitrites-cancer?cmpid=foodinc-fb

Champagne quotes I love bubbles and the stories they inspire.. http://firstwefeast.com/drink/champagne-quotes-from-the-famous-drinkers-who-loved-it-best/

Ten things to fix the food system besides GMO labelling  http://grist.org/food/10-things-that-would-fix-the-food-system-faster-than-gmo-labeling/

Wine recommendations – some interesting sounding, definitely reliable selections for under 20$ at the SAQ, we all like that! http://chacunsonvin.winealign.com/blog/2014/09/25/20-bons-vins-a-moins-de-20-pour-septembre/

Bitter, Jennifer McLagan’s latest book http://m.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/the-worlds-most-dangerous-flavour-how-bitter-is-making-a-comeback/article20630943/

50 ideés savoureuses/decouvertes via Marie Claude Lortie http://www.lapresse.ca/vivre/gourmand/201409/11/01-4799243-50-idees-savoureuses-des-decouvertes-des-bons-coups-et-des-gens.php

A restaurant surcharge for employees behind the scenes! Kudos, a step forward.. But it’s a bit ridiculous that as restaurateurs we cannot include this into our price without fear. That’s the thing, no one understands how expensive it is to run a quality restaurant, so scared to up prices when we should just be able to charge what we need to, no questions asked. And while we’re at it, why not forget about tips and pay waiters an hourly wage/salary like everyone, based on experience and competence, again included in the ticket price, tips not necessary, only bonus. The whole system needs revamping but no one wants to go there. Although logical and simple, best for full time employees, it comes down to bad business - Because its sticker shock for the clients, probably less tips for the waiters, more costs for the owners, only the government would be happy.. http://www.latimes.com/food/dailydish/la-dd-suzanne-goin-josiah-citrin-3-percent-benefits-surcharge-20140903-story.html

Restaurant workers living in poverty Yes, this is true.. You have to love it to stick it out to eventually make a living wage.. And it's not going to change soon unless people are willing to pay a lot more for their food because outside the fast food circuit, it's not the restaurant owners making money off the backs of employees; it's hard to charge enough.. http://eater.com/archives/2014/08/28/40-percent-of-restaurant-workers-live-in-poverty.php

At the Noma Science Bunker, things are fermenting.. http://eater.com/archives/2014/08/28/noma-copenhagen-science-bunker-photo-tour.php

How meat gets to your plate (or doesn’t) in Quebec  Good article about meat processing and the slaughterhouse situation in Quebec today. Important stuff. Seeing the number of local slaughterhouses diminish due to the Govt cracking down and pressure from the big guys has made me sick over the years. Even harder for small producers of venison, lamb or say lama, with even fewer authorized and one day a week 4hrs away say; Deer, not used to being confined, more skittish and aggressive. Detrimental. I saw it again and again. And for some small farmers, the extra cost was the difference between surviving and closing. No one thinks about how AFU our system is and this article says it well. I’m actually encouraged if some of the ‘B’s can viably become medium sized and better service our local farmers and eaters..http://boucherielawrence.com/blog/les-producteurs/

Rethinking Eating - Great piece!  Not farm to table stuff; but here, scientists and vegans weighing in.on the best way to ingest protein and nutrients. I can’t help but think I could have ended up this way if my appetite hadn’t been greater than my science/analytical bone. Unlike Mr.Soylent, a major highlight of my day has always been feeding myself (and others) real food, no powders or shakes. All due respect, I don’t want the guy who makes blood vessels making my burger either. And I Love this exchange:

‘Instead of centrifuging out plant proteins, “Why not just eat the vegetables?” asked Marion Nestle, author of “Food Politics” and professor of nutrition, food studies and public health at New York University.

High-tech food entrepreneurs, mostly white, well-educated young men who have spent much of their lives fueling up on fast food, say they want to provide more convenience and better taste.

“Being forced to take time from my day and having my train of thought interrupted by hunger was really bothersome to me,” said Rob Rhinehart of San Francisco, the inventor of Soylent, a liquid meal replacement now being delivered to some 60,000 customers who preordered it during a yearlong crowdfunding campaign that ended in May and raised $3 million. “Trying to eat a balanced diet looked like I was leaping into a sea of complexity, of biochemistry and cooking, sourcing and cleaning.”

To which Dr. Nestle said, “Sex is messy and a lot of trouble, too.”’ http://mobile.nytimes.com/2014/08/24/sunday-review/rethinking-eating.html?

Gael Greene tells her story, rants and raves  I just love it. Old school food writing, so rare nowadays.. http://www.insatiable-critic.com/Article.aspx?ID=1385&keyword=Out

Why Bitter makes food taste better  http://online.wsj.com/articles/why-bitter-makes-food-better-1408732030?tesla=y I like bitter, but am sensitive to it too making me a tough lover in the wild food world, I have analyzed this quite abit myself. Like with everything, it’s a question of dosage (the difference between pleasant bitter, off-putting and poisonous), and what you’re used to or trained to like on the low end, like with chili heat or anything. The fact is we don’t want to do without it, for taste or health..

Breakfast might not be all that it’s cranked up to be – whatever works for you.. My thoughts exactly. Beyond fruit and cheese, I know that a big breakfast is not a good idea for me, making me sluggish and unproductive which might be ok on a holiday but even then.. I never bought into the idea, like with raw food or not eating late-night – common sense and life experience. http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/08/breakfast-isnt-important/378917/

Feeding the world – no easy answers But let’s just say that big ag is not at the top of the list http://grist.org/food/is-producing-more-food-to-feed-the-world-beside-the-point/

On Raw Food, Paleo, Microbes and our food: No one says it like Michael Pollan - science and common sense with a love for food! I love my salad but I have always thought the raw food diet a croc because cooking allows you to extract more nutrition. Fire and cooking allowed us to evolve beyond chewing for half the day, allowing our jaw to diminish and our brain to grow? And the Paleo diet might be good inspiration, it means nothing if your meat isn’t grass-fed, why rule out good grains/good bread etc. Good read. http://m.motherjones.com/environment/2014/01/michael-pollan-paleo-diet-inquiring-minds

MEP, a kitchen tool for EVERYBODY, A way of life Yup, tis true. I keep trying to explain this to my non-kitchen friends who claim to be too busy to cook.. It's all about MEP! And yes, the same approach makes you better in life in general.. http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/08/11/338850091/for-a-more-ordered-life-organize-like-a-chef

The disconnect between Foodies/Chefs and Farmers  What I've been saying for years as I see small producers struggle & disappear while everyone seems to think the local food movement is in full gear and hunky dory.‎ Whatever trend to quality local fresh and artisanal is paralleled increasingly by that of cheap food everywhere thanks to Big AG, free trade & cheap imports and a govt./ system and culture that favours such, and loves BS. There is more bullshit marketing smoke n' mirrors than ever be it at the supermarket, in restaurants - Teroir/Local/Organic/Naturel/Sauvage etc. making it even harder for the real thing to shine. Whatever they say, most chefs still buy the bulk of their food in the big ag industrial system. Consumers flock to Walmart and Costco. Leaving a sliver of a market, choking out the authentic cream of the crop who aren't lucky enough to be subsidized or independently rich hobbyists. No, Urban foodies and hipsters don’t seem to really care about farmers and producers at the bottom of the chain, as long as the menu evokes the idea of them, the décor is hip and their cocktail name sounds cool. http://mobile.nytimes.com/2014/08/10/opinion/sunday/dont-let-your-children-grow-up-to-be-farmers.html?_r=2&referrer=

Maillard - Worthy of a celebration http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2012/10/10/162636059/100-years-ago-maillard-taught-us-why-our-food-tastes-better-cooked

MTL Blog scandal: Wow, I'm obviously not in the loop! Although I knew it existed, hardly on my radar.. Then again, I’m not in their demographic either, of the kind that prefers newspapers and in depth articles, you know the boring stuff.. http://canadalandshow.com/article/inside-mtlblo 

Fall issue of online magazine The Cook’s Cook http://www.thecookscook.com/emagazine/2014-08/issue4/

Fascinating story of our native Apple in NA http://www.bbg.org/gardening/article/the_apple_in_north_america

Crazy how the world works.. I remember being shocked by this when reading ‘Bitter Chocolate’ many years ago, still no change.  Cacao workers tasting chocolate for the first time: http://firstwefeast.com/video/cocoa-farmers-savor-their-first-taste-of-chocolate/

Hurray for quality over quantity! Good article. There is always less mark-up on the good stuff, for some of the reasons described here - so many people don't realize.. http://m.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food/rethinking-dining-value-eating-at-restaurants-shouldnt-be-only-about-volume/2014/07/28/84dc6c34-11d4-11e4-8936-26932bcfd6ed_story.html?wprss=rss_lifestyle

15 Hottest Mtl restaurants now according to EATER http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2014/07/03/the-15-hottest-restaurants-in-montreal-right-now.php

The importance of eating together http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2014/07/the-importance-of-eating-together/374256/

Caribou - New Quebec Food Magazine (In French) https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/470712816/magazine-caribou

Beginner Pickling Tips  http://food52.com/blog/10826-5-links-to-read-before-pickling

Real changes in restaurants and clientele, a documented glimpse of the new reality  http://news.distractify.com/culture/craigslist-surveillance-restaurant/?v=1

Bits and Bites June 2014

Organic farming is great but not easy – Hipster alert! And same with Foraging..  Lots of hard work while dancing with Mother Nature, super fun, but you cannot drink the coolaid without commitment, blood,sweat and tears. Forget about survival, let a lone making a living if you’re too zen and want to smoke joints while communing with nature.. Especially not in the wild where you need to know your shit in terms of identification and so as not to get lost.  And No you can’t take a one day or week class or rely on one book. You have to really love it and invest time and energy! To start, and then again, forever. Back to the land, be it organic farming, foraging, nose to tail and avoiding waste, it's all the old fashioned way rediscovered, logical yet labour intensive. Like you have to really scrub your pans without harsh chemicals, normal stuff that so many people seem to have forgotten.. Real life is work for all its beauty/rewards.  grist.org/food/organic-farming-is-so-much-harder-than-just-getting-stoned-and-picking-tomatoes/

35 courses of modernist cuisine with a feminine touch, sounded interesting.. And if Ruth Reichl (whom I respect) is enamoured, it must be worth checking out I figured even if I’m no longer into reading menus and viewing food photos so much, but still curious and wanting to stay somewhat in touch.. So very cool, however neat, hot or not, I guess I’m officially no longer that kind of foodie because I could barely read through it, let alone want to book a ticket. I couldn’t help but think I would be craving an actual vegetable and some crunch amidst the purees and froths perfectly executed. And seriously who wants 35 courses? unless you're a young foodie maybe or a journalist in need of material for an article.. http://www.ruthreichl.com/2014/06/my-dinner-with-nathan-and-tk-fabulous-women.html

Sugar in ‘nouveau’ red wines; is labelling in order? Bill thinks so.  Please, we don’t need bogus nutrition labels on everything, but ingredient information and transparency yes. If you’re buying coffee, you know it’s hot and are silly to sue the business for hot coffee, if you’re drinking wine, you know you’re consuming alcohol=sugar. But in this new global world of wine, I guess added sugar and preservatives should be noted, say in the ingredient list. Especially if the SAQ has the breakdown info, make it available! Unlike a small artisan who has no problem revealing what’s in their product but is reluctant to pay for all the analysis and costly labelling (organic/nutritional/etc) given volume/cost, the SAQ has the resources, so all marketing, just avoiding people knowing the truth. Not that most Quebeckers will care, even if they read the fine print, but a #g/L or something more specific than the current system will serve diabetics, dieters and people who dislike residual or hidden sugar in their wine. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Bill+Zacharkiw+wine+much+sugar+your+wine/9958772/story.html

Montreal terasses – another of Mayssam’s great lists http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/blog/10-great-restaurant-terrasses-in-montreal/

Lessons from The French Laundry Former cooks reminisce about career ‘lightbulb’ moments which I love, only hints of the FL legacy /impact on a generation of cooks.. http://www.foodandwine.com/blogs/2014/6/12/15-lessons-from-cooking-at-the-french-laundry

Apparently, Gluten-Free is here to stay.. I’m not so sure, but if a trend to avoid gluten means that people choose less processed foods and a more varied diet, then fine. Any pressure on the food industry to produce less crap and more quality, not take the consumer for granted is positive. Less but better should be the way, like with meat. A good slice of artisanal bread a treat, a Sunday roast of natural meat - less but better, local & natural from small producers and healthy soil/agriculture.. Minus the Round Up and big ag industial practices (and toxic chemicals in house products, furniture, cosmetics etc), I’m sure many food ‘allergies’ and ‘intolerances’ would disappear. www.nytimes.com/2014/06/18/dining/gluten-free-eating-appears-to-be-here-to-stay.html?

 Interview with Jody Adams, vet female chef..  ‘Jody Adams remembers her first job as a 25-year-old cook, working directly on the hot line. “I cut myself. I burned myself. I was a mess; I cried,” she said. “But I survived.”’ Yup, ditto. http://mobile.nytimes.com/blogs/boss/2014/06/12/women-who-belong-in-the-kitchen-jody-adams/?_php=true&_type=blogs&_r=0

Buying reservations  More of A NYC issue, but anyway. Don’t love the idea at all, but if there’s a market for it, who's to say.. And I sympathize with restaurateurs who just want their tables booked as simply as possible. So if people want to pay a premium and scalp tickets then whatever. I would personally prefer control of my reservation book, but that’s me, small-time.. A priority would be having customers pay for a reservation not honoured. mobile.nytimes.com/2014/06/14/dining/getting-a-good-table-by-flicking-an-app-not-greasing-a-palm.html?

What Chefs stress out about that no one really sees – and there’s much more than that, like staffing issues, say.. http://eatocracy.cnn.com/2014/06/09/55-chef-anxiety/

Chez Bocuse, then and now http://www.montrealgazette.com/touch/story.html?id=9914461

Restaurant life, not sexy, rarely profitable, but great somehow, for anyone cut from the cloth..  http://www.esquire.com/blogs/food-for-men/what-its-like-to-cook-for-a-living?src=soc_twtr

The 15 worst and best fruit & veg for pesticides, noteworthy for when to extra wash or make a point of buying organic http://nutritionnisteurbain.ca/infographiques/les-15-fruits-legumes-contenant-moins-residus-pesticides/?utm_source=http://chocolateandzucchini.com&utm_medium=e-mail&utm_campaign=2014-06-newsletter-vo

Bits & Bites May 2014

Comparing Alice Waters with Rene Redzepi and Patterson – Different/Evolving expressions of Haute Cuisine while focused on fresh, quality ingredients that are local & sustainable. http://thebreakthrough.org/index.php/journal/issue-4/beyond-food-and-evil

Canada’s top 50 Restaurants according to Vacay.ca  http://vacay.ca/2014/05/2014-top-50-restaurants-in-canada-raymonds-in-newfoundland-is-no-1/ 

Ruth Reichl at Benu in San Francisco  I’m not so into endless tasting menus anymore and rarely read about them, but this is an interesting sounding meal. It reminds me that I do long for a theatrical meal once and a while that surprises, that makes you travel while being extraordinarily delicious above all.. That’s the crapshoot. http://www.ruthreichl.com/2014/05/a-truly-great-meal.html

A reverence for eating meat – historically, something special: A Michael Pollan video for BBQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfmCT-Qsegg&feature=youtu.be

Neonics, those pesticides everywhere (Bayer), are bad for bees, compounding evidence..  http://www.motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2014/05/smoking-gun-bee-collapse

Brilliant essay by Dan Barber about how ‘Farm to Table’ went wrong’. It comes down to everyone being disconnected from the land, well intentioned or not, misguided and meanwhile industrial food takes hold even more. People are surprised to hear me say how tough things are for small producers, that I have seen many disappear around me while Walmarts open. There is a movement towards artisanal and local, and those precious few are focused on tomatoes and wild mushrooms, not barley, but the fact is, worse than that, most people still shop at superstores without a thought in the world beyond cost.. mobile.nytimes.com/2014/05/18/opinion/sunday/what-farm-to-table-got-wrong.html?

Amusing ‘apres terroir-talk’ with David Chang and Joe Beef  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/dim-sum-oysters-and-wings-eating-toronto-with-momofukus-david-chang-and-his-a-list-friends/article18691227/?cmpid=rss1&click=sf_globe

Real food and Cooking, Rich or Poor Can’t be said enough http://hereandnow.wbur.org/2014/05/15/pollan-healthy-food

Hard to find good cooks these days  I agree with this, ditto and then some because I go back further than T.Keller’s cookbook. Ok maybe not impossible but it’s a different world and not necessarily for the better despite all interest between the tv shows, kids enrolling and foodies. Maybe there are even more good young cooks than before but they are all in a rush, wanting to stage and skip steps up the ladder, entitled to chef title/salary, tv show or their own restaurant in a year. I would love to meet a few more with the devotion and spirit we had; willing to work our asses off, so proud to be a part of something cool without delusions of grandeur. We spent money we didn’t have on dining out, on cookbooks and magazines, because there were no free ideas or instructions on the internet; every victory was hard earned and people were less full of shit.   http://munchies.vice.com/articles/its-impossible-to-find-good-cooks-nowadays/

See the last line of this interview with Ferran Adria http://www.thedailymeal.com/ferran-adria-restaurants/5914

A good article about TASTE – supertasters, non-tasters and how your palette develops I’ve always been fascinated by taste and have observed many palettes over the years, have written about it before.. It is true that it’s all about tasting,

and like any other sense or muscle, can be honed with practice. You have your genetic god-given tastebuds, your upbringing and all your baggage and then it’s what you do with it! Malleable and ever-changing, all to make the most of for a more interesting life! No doubt my old and abused anglo palette serves me well..  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/lesley+chesterman+critic+notebook+search+great+taste/9819569/story.html

Forget about ‘Organic’ and ‘GMO’ until you are buying real food and cooking, avoiding industrial crap; then it’s time for nuance http://www.nytimes.com/2014/05/07/opinion/bittman-leave-organic-out-of-it.html?_r=1

A pretty funny (sometimes hard hitting) take on foodie issues – 20 things everyone thinks about the food world but nobody will say http://firstwefeast.com/eat/20-things-everyone-thinks-about-the-food-world-but-nobody-will-say/

Food documentaries (and not all depressing, most look whimsical and fun) – on my to see list..http://coolmaterial.com/media/movies/10-food-documentaries-every-guy-should-see/

Marinetti and Futurist Cooking from the 1930’s - pretty neat! Looking at some of his recipes, I’d be more into eating the modernist food of today, but kudos to the original thinkers past and present.. http://www.thestaffcanteen.com/editorial/futurist-cooking-was-molecular-gastronomy-invented-in-the-1930s

Beware of industrial (cheap) meat. Scary stuff!    If this wasn’t the mainstream meat source, there would be less annoying vegetarians. And if this affected me, I would be a total veghead. But it’s not if you opt out of the superstores and hook up with a farmer/farmer’s market or hunter for a reasonable amount of good meat.  ecowatch.com/2014/04/29/5-dangerous-substances-big-ag-meat/

Progress in Florida tomato fields  Happy to hear; I have been traumatized since reading Tomatoland. To think that such slavery existed in the US, on top of the botchy agriculture with so many pesticides. This new movement seems like a minimum, surely with some glossy marketing thrown in, but fingers crossed for them. I don’t buy tomatoes that aren’t local anyway and neither should you. www.nytimes.com/2014/04/25/business/in-florida-tomato-fields-a-penny-buys-progress.html

Michael Pollen always has something interesting to say http://www.vox.com/2014/4/23/5627992/big-food-michael-pollan-thinks-wall-street-has-way-too-much-influence

An ode to the past bread & water tradition  Yes about the water. I’m all for hospitality but the fact is that good bread has a cost, so either has to be integrated into the price or charged. Not that I’ve done it myself, but I’m stupid. Not everyone wants it anyway. Unfortunately everyone is used to cheap industrial stuff so often aren’t aware of the cost of real good crafted food and figure that restaurants make a fortune. Too many opportunist restauranteurs who overcharge for crap doesn’t help, so vicious circle. But a restaurant should not be shy to charge for quality, a fair price to cover their costs.. People have to get used to it and not go back if they don’t feel like they got their money’s worth. Not many other businesses systematically operate with such slim margins, and few people would agree to work for free just to make customers happy, as many restauranteurs happen to do in not upping their prices, while dealing with no shows etc in this economic climate. mobile.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/dining/lets-start-with-bread-and-water.html

Should a wine critic be neutral or have an opinion? I agree with him. As objective as possible while most importantly honest and informative, impressions real but with context. So that it makes for good reading, that you learn something and are inspired to try a wine. It’s a conversation. A critic is a knowledgeable free guide that you can take or leave. http://mobile.nytimes.com/2014/04/23/dining/a-wine-critics-realm-isnt-a-democracy.html?

Why aren’t more restaurant critics women? Some weigh in on why and the general issues and differences between men and women.. http://www.grubstreet.com/2014/04/female-critics-gender.html?mid=twitter_grubst

Food Camp Quebec City 2014 – a foodie festival that is growing.  A run down (in French): http://www.natalierichard.com/blog/food-camp-levenement-des-foodies-de-quebec/

Fed up – a film about the food industry, sugar and the obesity epidemic http://gma.yahoo.com/blogs/abc-blogs/fed-film-examines-food-industry-150003153--abc-news-movies.html?

March 2014

Egotarian Cuisine, as Alan Richman coins this new phenomenon.. Brilliant article on a trend with the new generation of young chefs that rings so true. So quick to create and wanna be a superstar, without years of experience and reference points. http://www.gq.com/life/food/201403/alan-richman-dude-food?

How sound affects taste www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2014/mar/11/sound-affects-taste-food-sweet-bitter?

The origins of some famous dishes/drinks http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/foodandwineholidays/10718501/Where-famous-dishes-were-invented.html?frame=2836688

February 2014

Navigating industrial food Honestly, I wish everyone would avoid it, but it’s a part of our world, best be informed in the least.. For instance, I will take some sulfite in artisanal charcuterie but never most other additives; yeast extract does not scare me (MSG) nor does salt or sugar, but since I prefer real homemade food, it’s not like I’m getting much of any of that. We have the choice. http://peaceloveandlowcarb.com/2014/02/the-a-to-z-of-the-food-industrys-most-evil-ingredients.html

Anonymity over, Food critics vs Bloggers http://www.vice.com/read/you-can-ditch-the-wig-food-critic-we-know-who-you-are?

Tastes evolve Yes so true! How many clients and friends I have seen go from hating spice, coriander or oysters.. Sometimes it’s gradual, other times a one shot deal once leaping over a mental block like eating tongue or rabbit. http://mobile.nytimes.com/2014/02/26/dining/a-taste-you-hate-just-wait.html

Quebec City, a ‘capital of cuisine’..  A great city, my home town! As bustling as ever with so many great little joints that are charming, hip, fun and delicious, yet so much classic and comforting too.. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/capital+cuisine/9534676/story.html

Is it the Gluten or the Glyphosphate?  Good question. There is obviously more to the story than gluten as the sudden evil culprit. http://www.examiner.com/article/is-it-the-gluten-or-is-it-the-glyphosate?CID=examiner_alerts_article

James Beard Awards – the American Culinary Oscars if you care.. I don’t anymore, but I respect the enterprise. If you live in the US or travel, you know who to put on your list. http://eater.com/archives/2014/02/19/jbf-announces-2014-restaurant-and-chef-semifinalists.php

Patrice Demers opened his Patisserie Feb.20^{th ;}  no doubt, everyone is enchanted.. http://willtravelforfood.com/2014/02/21/patrice-patissier-pastry-shop-montreal/

http://voir.ca/voir-la-vie/nouvelles/2014/02/20/la-patisserie-de-patrice-demers-est-ouverte/

http://www.katerinerollet.com/boutiques-cafes/le-chou-frais-farci-de-patrice-patissier/

Rehashing the key tenets of Michael Pollan’s ‘In Defense of Food’ – how nutritionism has failed us and real cuisine rules http://www.huffingtonpost.com/food-politic/this-is-why-youre-bad-at-_b_4784159.html?utm_hp_ref=food&ir=Food

Important read about ‘the man who tried to warn us about sugar’ http://www.calgaryherald.com/health/tried+warn+about+sugar/9503788/story.html

How food grows – love this! Some cool photos, a few might surprise you.. http://www.boredpanda.com/how-fruits-vegetables-and-spices-grow/

Some humble pie for David Chang, a difficult 1^st year in a different market..  So many details to the restaurant business! The no coat check bit is funny. http://toronto.eater.com/archives/2014/01/31/david-chang-talks-momofuku-horrifying-first-year.php

Terroir Hospitality Symposium in To May 12th : Growing ideas  A line-up of presentations with industry leaders, local and international to inspire http://www.terroirsymposium.com/program-2014/

An optimistic article about women in the kitchen. Ha, whatever. Women are great, but they don’t stick around long enough or want to sacrifice and play the games it takes to make it big. Period. No big deal. Yes, we will see more women cooks and chefs, but not soo many more in the top spots. No big deal, because it’s a question of choice. Can we stop talking about it now? http://www.nytimes.com/2014/01/22/dining/a-change-in-the-kitchen.html

Truths and Ideas from Farm to Table, by Rowan Jacobson http://www.orionmagazine.org/index.php/articles/article/7807

Plant intelligence and their language of chemical signals - fascinating! http://modernfarmer.com/2014/01/one-day-nose-help-farmers-talk-crops/

Top books on ‘Molecular Gastronomy’ (or Modernist cuisine if you prefer) and food/beverage science  http://blog.khymos.org/2014/01/01/notable-new-books-from-2013/

Nordic cuisine goes loosey goosey - like me, devoted to local more than most but still with lemon and spices in my kitchen.. http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2014/01/15/262481685/new-nordic-food-gods-loosen-up-on-strictly-local-cuisine

B&B December 2013

Anglo/French culinary traditions clash when it comes to horse, like with Quebec and the ROC/US http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/03/11/lumiere-they-eat-horses-dont-they-ready-for-copy/

Paleo diet http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=why-paleo-diet-half-baked-how-hunter-gatherer-really-eat

Your brain on gluten http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2013/12/this-is-your-brain-on-gluten/282550/?fb_action_ids=770816596269125&fb_action_types=og.recommends&fb_source=other_multiline&action_object_map=[625363437531603]&action_type_map=[%22og.recommends%22]&action_ref_map=[]

Serious stuff, Antibiotics  http://www.nytimes.com/2013/12/18/opinion/bittman-the-fdas-not-really-such-good-news.html

Lighter fare, some ‘Best of’ lists:

Montreal Divorces http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/12/27/friends-of-eater-on-restaurant-divorces-in-2013.php

Sad closures  http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/12/27/the-12-most-notable-restaurant-shutters-of-2013.php

Lesley Chesterman (The Mtl Gazette) top picks for 2013: www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesley+Chesterman+Best+Montreal+restaurants+reviewed/9305486/story.html

Chef’s picks across Canada: http://www.huffingtonpost.ca/2013/12/19/best-restaurants-canada-2014_n_4414071.html

Another Montreal restaurant list, different.. slanted? http://quebec.huffingtonpost.ca/2013/12/20/restaurants-montreal-quebec-_n_4351655.html

And 5 newbies from the Montreal scene via Katherine Rollet http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/5-meilleurs-nouveaux-restaurants-a-montreal-en-2013/

Top dishes to discover in Montreal’s ‘casual’ restos (Sarah Musgrave)  http://www.montrealgazette.com/touch/story.html?id=9255386

And her best resto list full of gems: http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Sarah+Musgrave+best+restos+2013+with+videos/9310828/story.html

A serious ‘best of’ Cookbook list: http://www.eatyourbooks.com/blog/2013/12/17/the-best-cookbooks-of-2013-by-the-experts

Now this looks like a good book! A History of Food in 100 Recipes http://www.goodfoodrevolution.com/william-sitwell-history-of-food/

Olfactory memory is, as Proust suggests, potent more for its emotional than its autobiographical content. http://aeon.co/magazine/being-human/why-is-food-so-potent-in-evoking-the-memories-of-childhood/

Anicet’s honey (our favourite!) and their new cookbook  So happy to see their success and any press they get. I met Anicet the bee superstar when he was still a kid, his parents were making the honey and wine, they were chouchous of Anne Desjardins who was probably the first to promote their exceptional products that Anicet is now taking to another realm, love snf bravo  http://www.montrealgazette.com/touch/story.html?id=9269528

Our Brains love lists  I do love (and hate) lists, but either way, it’s important to remember that however convenient, it’s like the fast food of journalism, fun but you can’t live off that alone; without substance and nuance, dangerous..  www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/elements/2013/12/a-list-of-reasons-that-our-brains-love-lists.html?

Ferran Adria’s Bullipedia project – food research and cooking experimentation to document and share.. Pretty neat. http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/dec/02/elbulli-ferran-adria-bullipedia

The enduring legacy of Elizabeth David ? Well, at least my generation of foodie knows who she is, from when food writing did not mean blogging about a meal at the latest hotspot www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2013/dec/08/elizabeth-david-first-lady-of-food

Danny St-Pierre of Auguste (Sherbrooke) takes the Montreal Gold Medal Plates with his beef tongue dish, Antonio Park 2^nd and Nick Hodge (Kitchenette) bronze..  http://jameschatto.com/2013/12/2928/

Bannock, Canada’s original ‘bread, from aboriginal recipes using wild roots to the Scottish wheat based version  - cool stuff! http://fooddaycanada.ca/articles/bannock-canadas-first-peoples/

Bits & Bites November 2013

Tofu bad for you!? Good thing I never started eating it.. http://www.whydontyoutrythis.com/2013/09/10-reasons-to-avoid-soy-at-all-costs.html?m=1

Cookbooks  - a list among many for the holiday season  http://www.goodfoodrevolution.com/deans-holiday-list-cookbooks-2013/

Bugs hit Paris menus http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/magazine-24912602

Women chefs and the glass ceiling; Yes! it’s a boy’s club, yes it’s tough, and most women opt out because of that, and often because they want to have more of a social/home life, more stability and usually babies (just when they’re reaching the sous-chef/chef-de cuisine stage). Not in my case and none of that ever bothered me, yet I ended up choosing a path on the fringe doing my thing, so I don’t know how I would have made out long term in the city circus as a hardcore female chef. But that’s the thing too, I was happy to carve out my niche off the radar, outside any club and true to me – like so many women naturally do by going into pastry, catering, stylism, etc.. http://www.montrealgazette.com/news/Lesley+Chesterman+Critic+Notebook+Will+female+chefs+ever+break+through/9170642/story.html

No doubt that food writing is more abundant than ever, but there was a time when ‘ Less was more’ .. The price to pay for constant updates and photos, if that’s what people want.  I miss Gourmet, more in-depth pieces like in the Art of Eating today, more than one serious article to hope for in a local paper, a good book.. Without having to wade through all the rest. More journalists than bloggers, say. http://blogs.laweekly.com/squidink/2013/11/food_writing_newspaper_section.php

A 6min video on food The point of this video might be to make you a vegetarian, but it doesn’t need to be that way, just avoid industrial everything as much as possible and it isn’t so bad!  http://www.filmsforaction.org/watch/without_saying_a_word_this_6_minute_short_film_will_make_you_speechless/

A profile on our beloved Anicet and his bees (in French).  I wasn’t into honey until I met his family through Anne at l’Eau à la Bouche in 2000.  http://www.lapresse.ca/vivre/gourmand/cuisine/201209/18/01-4575156-miel-des-champs.php 

Guide Resto Voir’s ad campaign with ‘sexy food’ not appreciated by all. Big deal, I say. There’s lots more to worry about.. http://www2.infopresse.com/blogs/actualites/archive/2013/11/14/article-43008.aspx

Ten reasons you can’t be a pro chef even if you make good lasagne. I like it. http://blogs.sfweekly.com/foodie/2011/05/10_reasons_you_cant_be_a_profe.php?

James McGuire, a Montreal icon and treasure – as master baker and teacher, source of classic French technique and inspiration.. http://m.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/meet-montreals-gastronomical-secret-weapon/article15377908/

Time article on important Chefs of today, referred to as ‘the Gods of Food’ to subsequent controversy.. http://time100.time.com/2013/11/07/coming-to-you-from-a-restaurant-far-away/

Major backlash due to no women on the list, why the Boy’s Club..  Because it’s just the way it is, and it isn’t the hugest deal. Bottom line, most of the time, the women are just opting out (of the industry 5-10 yrs in and if not, afterwards from the biz and boys club that gets you on lists). The guys care more about the lists.

Gabrielle Hamilton is called to tune in after Barbara Lynch, among others..  http://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2013/11/11/why-do-female-chefs-get-overlooked/women-chefs-escape-the-leash-its-time-the-master-howled?smid=tw-share

Barbara Lynch http://www.bostonmagazine.com/restaurants/blog/2013/11/11/barbara-lynch-responds-times-gods-food-feature/

Alan Richman isn’t surprised http://www.nytimes.com/roomfordebate/2013/11/11/why-do-female-chefs-get-overlooked/macho-men-in-the-kitchen-keep-women-down

Kudos for Elizabeth Baird and her contribution to Cdn food (Canadian Living +) http://themessybaker.com/2013/11/12/a-canadian-food-hero-elizabeth-baird/

You wanna be a chef? By Anthony Bourdain. Bang on. http://ruhlman.com/2010/09/so-you-wanna-be-a-chef%E2%80%94-by-bourdain-2/

A restaurant critic’s top 20 gripes I agree with all of these, although I have to say a couple are hard to solve completely on the slim profit margins typical today in restaurants in this economic climate without upping prices – say the reservation clerk, the freebies, tables that are less coveted than others.. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesley+Chesterman+Twenty+grievances+about+restaurant/9132873/story.html

R.I.P Charlie Trotter – A chef that influenced a generation of chefs (mine), those who lead another generation in kitchens and cooking schools today.. Don’t forget that back then, we weren’t on the internet, there weren’t many big glossy books, just his – before Thomas Keller!  http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2013-11-05/news/chi-charlie-trotter-obit-20131105_1_charlie-trotter-cuisine-great-success

Remembering Marcella, who influenced more than a few chefs. One of my first cookbooks, a little stained purple paperback. I love her. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/11/10/magazine/remembering-marcella.html?hpw&rref=magazine&_r=0

Montreal spots to cure a hangover http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/10/31/le-lendemain-montreals-best-hangover-cures.php

Joe Beef’s manifesto 1879 – Fun snippets of Mtl history brought to light thanks to Joe Beef the restaurant (and McGill)  http://blogs.library.mcgill.ca/digitization/2013/10/30/joe-beefs-manifesto-from-1879/

Top ten food trends. Whatever.  http://www.forbes.com/pictures/ehlk45jhll/korean-flavors/

Chefs boycott the Cdn seafood industry to save seals and Anthony Bourdain starts a backlash (Thanks Tony, Dave) – completely ridiculous..  http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/10/28/bourdain-slams-chef-seal-hunt-pledge-canadian-seafood-boycott.php

It’s all been said, how misinformed and hypocritical this initiative is wrt the seal hunt, how small and controlled the industry is, how seals eat so much cod, how other fisherman have nothing to do with sealing.. But first and foremost, put your noses in your own back yard first and attack bigger issues like industrial chicken, feed lot beef, slave driven tomatoes and etc.. before talking about Canada, seals or even foie gras..

What is happening in France http://foodarts.com/news/features/28962/what-is-france

St-Hubert is starting to compost Yay. It might be marketing more than anything, and it will take til 2015? But if big companies like St-Hubert recycle and compost for real, it makes a big difference. http://www.newswire.ca/fr/story/1242049/les-rotisseries-st-hubert-devient-la-premiere-chaine-de-restauration-a-implanter-la-collecte-de-matieres-compostables-dans-ses-restaurants

En Route’s top ten new Cn restaurants http://enroute.aircanada.com/canadas-best-new-restaurants-2013/finalistes/

Food heists on the rise  We were bemused by the massive maple syrup theft here last year, but apparently this kind of thing happens regularly, even with perishables..  http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2013/oct/24/ten-impressive-food-heists-thefts-baked-beans

Van Houtte goes Fair Trade – it’s about time! Choose them. Maybe Starbucks and co will wake up too.. http://www.equiterre.org/actualite/equiterre-felicite-van-houtte-pour-son-virage-100-equitable

Love Barbara Lynch, Boston restaurateur/mover and shaker http://eater.com/archives/2013/10/23/eater-qa-barbara-lynch.php

Siracha, the guy behind http://qz.com/132738/the-highly-unusual-company-behind-siracha-the-worlds-coolest-hot-sauce/

Again a call to Be Afraid of Industrial Chicken www.salon.com/2013/10/19/7_horrifying_truths_about_the_chicken_you_eat_partner/

Paying to eat in silence (en français) I fully appreciate a nice meal alone, but I think most people go out to eat to commune and at at least be able to speak to their dining companion.. But I guess there can be a restaurant for every kind of person, mood and moment in NYC; it would never work in Mtl.. http://www.lapresse.ca/actualites/insolite/201310/16/01-4700414-un-restaurant-impose-le-silence-pour-mieux-apprecier.php

Top chefs discuss the business http://www.goodfood.com.au/good-food/eat-out/dishing-the-dirt-what-culinary-superstars-discuss-behind-closed-doors-20131014-2vhh5.html

Cheap meat, scarier by the minute with the US shutdown http://otherwords.org/meat-cheap-die/

Cook it raw – a grouping of chefs and producers sharing, staging events, all to explore the possibilities of cuisine  http://swallowdaily.com/2013/09/cook-it-raw-is-not-a-raw-food-thing/

‘Is true happiness possible without gluten?’ I love Jeffrey Steingarten  http://m.vogue.com/magazine/article/is-true-happiness-possible-without-gluten/

Joe Mercuri (Bronte) to open two new restaurants in Griffintown (Montreal) http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/10/01/breaking-details-on-joe-mercuris-return.php

Eater , now in Montreal, does a top 38 list for Montreal (and environs). Happy that La Table des Jardins Sauvages is on the list but it’s just a list like another; there are so many other great spots and chefs! http://montreal.eater.com/archives/2013/10/02/the-38-essential-montreal-restaurants-october-2013.php  

Scary ingredients/additives hiding in your fast food, nuts! http://www.realfarmacy.com/mystery-ingredients-in-fast-food/

The Tipping System in need of change -there is no doubt.  It does not make sense on so many levels, on either end - be it for the consumer (who is confused about how much to tip and is allowed to be cheap, justified or not), the waitstaff who depend on it for a living wage.. And even less so for underpaid cooks and employers honestly operating on slimmer profit margins, who would like to see the money distributed properly given the business model, team and work behind. Everyone on staff should be paid a salary based on experience and competence, included in the ticket price (like in any other business!). And tips only a bonus, divided among everyone (with ranking.) http://mobile.nytimes.com/2013/09/04/dining/leaving-a-tip-a-custom-in-need-of-changing.html

An ode to cooking (and home-ec classes!) Fun read.. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/09/04/cooking-is-freedom/

The Critic’s life (at the New York Times) http://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2013/09/03/dining/2013-dining-critics-videos.html?ref=dining&smid=tw-nytdining&_r=1&

A Farmer who broke the mould.. Who followed the industrial trend but ultimately knew that ‘farming in a bag’ was not the best way, so fought for logic and sustainability, tending the land as opposed to dominating, pioneering a movement along the way. I hope his legacy continues. An Important read.. It’s because of people like him that things change, and there aren’t enough farmers like him and consumers encouraging them. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/09/03/a-practical-farmer-who-showed-the-way/

Bits & Bites August 2013

The Montreal Food Truck beat: Sarah Musgrave showcases a new one every week http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Meals+With+Wheels+Lobster+roll+signature+dish+Lucille/8838745/story.html

Restaurant work hard on the body.. I hear what he’s saying, I can feel it and only twenty years in, yikes don’t tell me I will have to delegate one day! http://mobile.nytimes.com/2013/08/25/booming/for-a-chef-41-years-in-the-kitchen-takes-its-toll.html?partner=rss&emc=rss&smid=tw-nytimes&

Go Girls! An overview of women in professional kitchens then and now.. A different picture today, but despite the increasing number of girls in cooking school and excelling in the métier, there will always be fewer ten years in (chef material) simply because it isn’t a job conducive to raising a family.. http://foodarts.com/news/classics/20985/take-that

5  Chinese imports to avoid/ A éviter, I would say OBVIOUSLY, but the thing is they are in your supermarket, not always labelled.. Imagine buying Chinese apple juice in Quebec, but yes it can happen if you’re buying the cheap stuff. And 99% of the garlic out there is Chinese unless you’re shopping in season or plugged at the market. Tilapia, ugh.. http://www.epochtimes.fr/front/13/8/15/n3508676.htm

Plankton, a menu trend, really? I thought I was wild, but no.. http://metro.co.uk/2013/08/06/food-and-drink-news-plankton-is-the-new-hot-trend-for-foodies-3912188/?ITO=news-sitemap

Snapshots from Mile-Ex in Montreal – a budding neighbourhood it seems.. http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2013/08/25/travel/20130825-SURFACING-6.html

Gripes about the restaurant business from food critics/bloggers. Amusing! I agree with a lot of it.. But it’s true, why anonymous? It would have been less frank and fun, but more meaningful. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/08/the_airing_of_grievances_part_1.php

In Vitro meat - delving deeper, so NOT a magic solution.. How about eating less, natural meat?  http://www.motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2013/08/my-beef-lab-grown-meat

Beware of ‘industrial food’! Some foods/additives common here but banned in other countries http://topinfopost.com/2013/07/10/10-american-foods-that-are-banned-in-other-countries

What’s wrong with meat Yes, ‘grass finished’ or not might not be the end of the world, better labelling allround would help, but it’s when it’s the industrial system that is bad, that requires antibiotics and cheap feed because of the volume. And that is what is readily available, what every one knows, and these big companies have clout, render all claims meaningless with their marketing. Grain fed means nothing but grass-fed still does mean something.  Buy from a local producer and know the real deal. http://www.businessinsider.com/george-faison-on-whats-wrong-with-meat-2013-8

Wine flaws and tasters’ sensitivities  Interesting article! I have long noticed that I am more sensitive to certain notes than others, similar to Bill I think like BDT for sure, and also the spoiling fruit thing. Same with food, I am ultra sensitive to bitterness (even if enjoy bitterness like coffee, and again very much to that souring fruit/veg smell. I can detect vegetables before they are on the verge – if they have been left out, that will spoil in 6h, 12h or 24h. Which is why I hate buffets. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Bill+Zacharkiw+wine+Fruit+flies+your+wine/8797943/story.html

A restaurant review of Les Jardins Sauvages in the Gazette. www.montrealgazette.com/life/Enchanting+haute+cuisine/8792914/story.html Yay!

Questions you should not ask at a farmers’ market? http://civileats.com/2013/08/08/four-questions-you-should-never-ask-at-a-farmers-market/

Ten delicious things to eat in Montreal (in French) http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/blog/fr/10-delicieuses-experiences-culinaires-a-montreal/

Rituals enhance taste mobile.nytimes.com/blogs/well/2013/08/09/rituals-make-our-food-more-flavorful/

Does Tipping make sense? http://qz.com/113597/after-i-banned-tipping-at-my-restaurant-the-service-got-better-and-we-made-more-money/   I have long thought that the current tipping system does not make sense, especially in high end restaurants where there is a whole team behind, the waiter a small but important part of the equation, plus that the server in such an establishment is ideally a professional and should be paid a salary like any other professional. It’s true that people tip according to habit, not necessarily on performance, nothing guaranteed. And if so, it’s for the ensemble.  Waiters shouldn’t have to depend on fickle clients to make a living wage, and employers shouldn’t have to let waiters make take home such a big piece of the pie when business is good. Servers’ wages should be incorporated into the price and the owner pays the employees based on competence and experience like in any other business.  It would be a big step here because employers would have to charge more upfront, clients would have to adjust, and waiters wouldn’t necessarily like it unless they are long term professionals. But it would be better for everybody, on top of the reasons stated in this article

Cool Climate Chardonnays to try.. Neat to know that there is a festival, in Ontario no less, for this type of wine, not well understood by the general public. If you say you don’t like Chardonnay but do like Chablis, like I hear so many people say, well this article is for you. Not so different myself, I tend to stay clear from New World Chardonnay unless I know it is cool climate and unoaked.  Happy to hear there are more and more options out there, and promise in Canada! http://www.montrealgazette.com/touch/story.html?id=8769406

Montreal Food trucks – stifled by ridiculous laws http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Josh+Freed+city+wants+food+trucks+fail+should+just+some/8743984/story.html

Patrice Demers and co. of 400 coups pass the torch with a boutique/pastry shop/school project on the horizon – very interesting! http://quebec.huffingtonpost.ca/2013/08/06/apres-les-400-coups--une-boutique-de-patisseries-pour-patrice-demers_n_3714480.html?utm_hp_ref=tw

Greek yogurt - the dark side It seems to me that you shouldn’t be allowed to commercialise something without taking care of the by-product.  I’m sure some entrepreneur will figure it out, but in the meantime, a problem.. http://modernfarmer.com/2013/05/whey-too-much-greek-yogurts-dark-side/

MSG made out to be worse than it is, as I’ve been saying for years.. Although of course, you want to be consuming it mostly in natural form rather than as a powder additive, like with fruit and sugar. Your body craves glutamate (umami) for a reason, because it needs it - like salt, fat, sugar; glutamate is the building block for protein.  http://www.shutupandeat.ca/2013/08/06/what-is-monosodium-glutamate-m-s-g/#.UgFHaawsYfx

The Science/History behind Champagne http://blogs.smithsonianmag.com/food/2013/07/the-science-of-champagne-the-bubbling-wine-created-by-accident/

Signs you work in a restaurant kitchen – too funny, quite spot on http://www.buzzfeed.com/christinebyrne/signs-you-worked-in-a-restaurant-kitchen

Lesley Chesterman reviews PF Chang - a good review of a bad restaurant it seems. It’s not like I’ve been, but this review aside, I have no desire to visit anything close to a chain restaurant when there are so many little authentic gems all over the city on my to-do list.  Business before heart, no quality or local produce on the menu, no thanks. But some people want cheap while feeling like they are fine dining, a gluten free menu even if it is industrial crap, whatever..  All kinds of restaurants for all kinds of people, but good on her for stating the difference. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesles+Chesterman+Fine+Dining+Chang/8741839/story.html

Les Chefs! Maybe a female aspirant chef will take it.. I honestly am not into these shows, but good for them.  Ashley first, Isabelle second. http://plus.lapresse.ca/screens/475a-5734-51f68aed-b5c7-7e1fac1c606d|_0.html

Omnivore – the hip, young foodie/chef fest in Montreal, Round two Aug.17-18 http://www.omnivore.com/world-tour/montreal-2013/demos-de-cuisine

Low budget food critics and bloggers writing about a free lunch, a worrisome trend in food journalism http://swallowdaily.com/2013/07/whats-another-word-for-freeloader/

A food crisis, not so far off here.. Our gov’ts should be doing something to change farming for a more secure future because it isn’t the big ag current system that will provide www.nytimes.com/2013/07/22/opinion/our-coming-food-crisis.html

A review of Daniel in NYC – Mostly top notch if with a note that not all clients get the same experience; very well written, seems true.. And I don’t doubt it. C’mon, it’s just normal that regular and recognized clients get an extra amuse or a touch more attention (think of yourself as a chef and your mom is in the room), but the unknown customers that make up the crux of the clientele should be getting the same base experience with frills and service. I hate snobbism and VIP mentality. Don’t forget though, sometimes it’s not a house mantra, but a server’s choice or a bad night, distracting things going on behind the scenes and a B-team not able to do it all properly. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/07/24/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-daniel-on-the-upper-east-side.html

Two great articles about the Montreal restaurant scene in retrospective, Normand Laprise of Toqué’s influence, and the newcomers shaking it up today in his footsteps – good perspective; it’s important to remember. The new generation doesn’t necessarily know how recent the new ‘normal’ is. Normand deserves all success and kudos, however I would add that he wasn’t first or alone - Anne Desjardins of l’Eau à la Bouche was a true pioneer in seeking out and encouraging local farmers and artisans, forging a Quebec cuisine inspired but independent of France and imports. It is thanks to them that Cerf de Boileau, Gaspor, Jardins Sauvages exist, that chefs have so much to choose from today..

http://foodarts.com/news/features/27053/ils-se-souviennent-in-search-of-california-he-discovered-quebec

http://foodarts.com/news/features/27226/ils-se-souviennent-a-distinct-society

Vegan Baking Tips Not that I’ll ever be taking he eggs and butter out of my desserts, but in case you want to.. http://www.onegreenplanet.org/vegan-food/a-beginners-guide-to-vegan-baking/

Inspiring read about a small organic farmer with one hectare – it is possible stay small and to do things right and be successful, even profitable, if more about quality of life than sheer profit (in French) http://m.ledevoir.com/environnement/actualites-sur-l-environnement/383235/une-carotte-a-la-fois

The McWrap, how big business works http://www.businessweek.com/printer/articles/132030-why-the-mcwrap-is-so-important-to-mcdonalds?

Le Papillon – A new Montreal wine bar by the Joe Beef team http://www.vinpapillon.com/

Food in America is too cheap, no doubt  The industrial system offers up so much in chain restaurants and supermarkets, making people think real food is expensive, that’s the problem.. blog.fooducate.com/2013/07/03/is-food-in-america-too-cheap/

Bits & Bites May - June 2013

Setting it straight with poutine Obviously the Quebec poutine (and all offshoots now common) is something independent and more recent than the original ‘poutines’. Like with tourtieres and tourtes, so many progeny and parallel stories, hard to pinpoint what’s original or authentic. But it’s nice to look back, take note and preserve old traditions while marching forward each in our own region. http://fooddaycanada.ca/featured-article/will-the-real-poutine-please-stand-up/

It’s about time people wake up to CSA’s – win-win for everyone! http://www.montrealgazette.com/business/Community+supported+agriculture+recipe+success+Quebec/8593722/story.html

Drinking while pregnant – more support for the common notion (outside the US and English Canada) that an occasional glass of wine is just fine,  even beneficial http://www.vinography.com/archives/2013/06/drinking_wine_while_pregnant_t.html

 Montreal’s official food truck list http://www.lapresse.ca/actualites/montreal/201306/19/01-4663055-cuisine-de-rue-montreal-devoile-ses-27-choix.php  And there are more that didn’t make it into the rotation, that are only allowed at special events, like Le Cheese!

Will Travel for Food has a comprehensive listing of Mtl food trucks and how to track them down: http://willtravelforfood.com/2013/06/26/montreal-street-food-and-food-trucks/

Boucherie Lawrence Good news for Montrealers! A real butcher and lunch counter with well sourced, quality meat and small producer products http://www.boucherielawrence.com/http://www.montrealgazette.com/touch/life/top-stories/Showing+beef+where+comes+from/8543980/story.html

 More precision with ‘best before dates’ on food to limit waste; Europe always ahead of us.. Although this has always baffled me; people are so afraid of their food - just buy real food and use your nose! I would be more scared of commercial mayonnaise or a McDo burger with no expiry date!  http://qz.com/94634/soon-a-bunch-of-expired-french-food-will-suddenly-be-ok-to-eat/

Spark, always a good show even when food isn’t on the menu; here there is François Chartier on pairing wine and food with his molecular approach, and another segment on eating together.  http://www.cbc.ca/spark/episodes/2013/05/31/217-data-harvesting-and-social-games-the-battle-for-cyberspace-cooking-and-science-employees-eating/#4

David Suzuki on GMOS, an authority http://www.naturalcuresnotmedicine.com/2013/05/david-suzuki-speaks-out-against.html?m=1

Cronut madness - Impossible to ignore, exciting if you’re a sweet tooth.. although it could all be more media whoop than anything  In any case, a cross between a donut and a croissant merits more than a cupcake. http://www.lapresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/en-vrac/201306/03/01-4657129-fini-le-cupcake-place-au-cronut.php?

A new Montreal food truck with real dogs: home-made sausage, creative toppings, sounds good! Chaud Dogs http://www.urbanexpressions.ca/food/story/food-truck-chaud-dogs

The lighter side of Joe Beef http://willtravelforfood.com/2013/06/03/montreal-joe-beef-restaurant/

Changing the tip system  http://thebaddeal.com/post/52063538711/are-servers-hospitality-industry-mercenaries It makes sense to revise the tipping system and how servers are paid. Most waiters make out quite fine as is, taking home a bigger piece of the pie than anyone; if the waiter is hurting, the business is much more so when it comes to those serving quality. But it is true that it is a taxing and transient job without benefits. Overall, it is illogical; why should a career waiter rely on tips, make peanuts or take home an exorbitant amount depending on what falls from the sky. In a serious restaurant there is a team behind too; the happiness of a customer does not depend on one person, and the costs need to be covered no matter what if everyone is going to stick around.  Often, for a better quality of service, the house will hire an extra cook, manager, dishwasher or busboy instead of a waiter to provide and it is the ensemble that counts.  Every restaurant is different, with sommeliers or not, fixed menu or sales, waiters that have back-up or not. Service should be included in the ticket price, waiters paid a salary according to competence/experience - like cooks, managers, maintenance and everyone else that contributes to the restaurant meal.  The business owner knows the costs behind and who deserves what. Customers would be less confused with a price that includes all.  But there is no doubt that the outright price for a meal would be more (not good for marketing) – but no different in the end unless you’re cheap.. And it doesn’t mean that customers couldn’t leave an extra tip if they were super happy, but it would be bonus. Not counted on for salary. Maybe even divided between all, including the cooks!  Waiters wouldn’t make more, but would have a guaranteed, stable paycheck like a normal person. It would be more sustainable and make more sense; overall restaurant business might have a better chance. 

New openings in Montreal soon :  I can’t keep up.. http://blogues.journaldemontreal.com/thierrydaraize/art-culinaire/ca-bouge-dans-les-restos/

On trendy restaurant news and the food blogs/sites behind - A very good article about this crazy new food/media universe. How everything foodie has gone so tabloid-cheap is true, and is why I tune in so much less than before, why I don’t feel like blogging or posting food photos anymore, like I don’t watch food tv anymore. It’s all becoming depressingly stupid, so transient and full of shit, repetitive and empty.  So little substance, everything dumbed down. Everyone thinks it’s great for chefs & restaurants; I think it sucks that restaurants have to operate in this world where media buzz matters so much.. http://observer.com/2013/05/blog-tied-how-a-hunger-for-clicks-drives-new-yorks-brutally-fickle-food-scene/

Can you eat too little salt? Yes! Salt is not bad, au contraire, necessary. But it’s not something most of us have to worry about, unless you’re sick and vomiting all the time or exercising extremely, because salt is everywhere in our North American diets. Most of us eat too much of it. But like I always said, if you cook real food yourself and avoid fast food/processed food, you don’t have to worry about salt! opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/05/28/can-you-eat-too-little-salt/

Breeding the nutrition out of our food It’s true that we’ve weeded out much of the nutrition along with ‘the weeds’ in our new industrial, super efficient, cheap food system, all for convenience and cost.  Time to rethink it. I’m not saying everyone should be foraging, but what we should be buying is cultivated greens, vegetables & meat that aren’t so different from the wild, that follow what’s natural, ie. from small, organic farms that don’t mass produce but take care of plants & animals, nutrients and soil& biodiversity www.nytimes.com/2013/05/26/opinion/sunday/breeding-the-nutrition-out-of-our-food.html? 

Boycott Mosanto – Brand names to avoid http://fracturedparadigm.com/2013/04/02/boycott-monsanto-a-simple-list-of-companies-to-avoid/

On Star Chefs There all kinds – business men with a machine, tv types with brands and hands-on chefs who are big in their communities; all fine I think but it’s too bad that the first two seem to be the current definition of the summum of chefdom. No doubt that Jean Georges, Alain Ducasse and Thomas Keller can do what they want after so much real carreer time, blood, sweat & tears – good for them, they are free of scrutiny. But there are too many phonies, and it just should not be the prototype, not to mention what culinary students are thinking is their future.   www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesley+Chesterman+Critic+Notebook+star+chef+defined/8430274/story.html?

Culinary tourism in and around Quebec; the Portneuf area is a little known gem http://www.montrealgazette.com/travel/Checking+Food+tourism+route+maps+Portneuf+best/8425500/story.html

Martin Juneau in McDo ads Marie Claude Lortie and co weigh in.. Bottom line, can’t blame him, he needed the money. http://blogues.lapresse.ca/lortie/2013/05/21/un-chef-et-une-pub/

Explaining Chablis, one of my favourite wines  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/What+makes+Chablis+different/8362038/story.html

Vegan diet an inspiration and useful tool, not as a rule  Like I say, just less but better meat and lots of veg and fruit.. And I would never cut out eggs or cheese. opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/05/21/why-im-not-a-vegan/

Artisan workshops in Toronto June 21-22  An impressive roster of interesting workshops with artisans and chefs from across Canada, if you’re near Toronto.. I’m giving two on the Saturday afternoon at George Brown College on salads and wild ingredients.. http://www.acebakery.com/artisan-incubator/workshops/

Processed meats are bad Yes, but I’m not that scared of nitrite in trace amounts, more so of industrial meat plus major nitrite! Charcuterie depends on it and that is fine, but the industrial players and supermarkets are dealing with toxic meat to start with and pump it up so much that no doubt it can become toxic. Nutmeg, rosemary and basil are toxic too – it’s all about dosage. I will continue to eat bacon, but mostly that I make myself thankyou. http://dreamhealer.wordpress.com/2013/05/16/processed-meats-declared-too-dangerous-for-human-consumption

Not Montreal Bagels, but still beautiful.. A Brooklyn bagel video http://www.wimp.com/makingbagels/

Lab meat making strides I’m all for science but it seems that there are many more places to put money and energy for food solutions.. http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/14/science/engineering-the-325000-in-vitro-burger.html?_r=1&

Dodgy food practices banned in Europe, but ok in the US; Philpott is always digging. Who knows what the deal is in Canada but not so different I bet in the linked industrial system; bottom line, avoid all big companies and know where your meat come from! http://www.motherjones.com/tom-philpott/2013/05/7-dodgy-foodag-practices-banned-europe-just-fine-here

Celebrating longevity in restaurant business – no easy feat!  Katherine’s list of Montreal restos with 25yrs under their belt (French): http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/les-25-restaurants-montrealais-de-plus-de-25-ans/

So happy about food trucks on the Montreal scene, but it seems that some don’t like the fact that they won’t be serving cheap schlop..  I so don’t agree.  Fast food is everywhere, who needs more industrial cheap food that is bad for you, bad for the local economy and the environment.. I’d much rather have options on the street for quality food prepared by restaurateurs who have properly inspected and equipped kitchens, who encourage local farmers and actually cook real food.  Encouraging quality does not exclude diversity. But if it’s cheap food you’re after, go to Belle Province for a 2$ dog; providing good food does not come cheap. http://www.vice.com/en_ca/read/montreals-food-truck-plan-is-a-symbolic-fuck-you-to-poor-people-and-immigrants

Top 50 restaurants in Canada – another restaurant list for what it’s worth.. Whatever, no list is the end all, but they are kind of fun and somewhat useful as a heads up on some places to check out.. http://vacay.ca/top-50-restaurants/

San Pellegrino’s Top 50 Restaurants in the world – leaked results show the Roca bros on top, Noma in #2, EMF New York climbs to #5… for whatever it’s worth http://eater.com/archives/2013/04/29/worlds-50-best-top-five-restaurants-leaked.php

A great article by Rowan Jacobson about apples and the apple detective http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2013/04/heritage-apples-john-bunker-maine

The Main  Adam Gollner points out his favourite spots along/near Montreal’s iconic strip, St-Laurent  http://www.bonappetit.com/blogsandforums/blogs/badaily/2013/04/montreal-boulevard-saint-laurent.html

Lesley Chesterman, the Montreal Gazette's restaurant critic shows her face Makes total sense in this era, as opposed to pretending.. And good for her for embracing the other side and taking a French job! Hopefully her loyal readers will follow and take more of an interest too! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Lesley+Chesterman+unmasked+Fine+Dining+critic+anonymous/8262095/story.html

How Processed foods are wrecking taste buds .. I’ve observed the phenomenon and thought about this a lot– how people are so used to processed foods, so much salt/sugar/fat and concentrated flavours and extracts that real food can seem boring. A real berry can be disappointing if you’re used to fake tasting juice and muffins; I often feel like I should make my desserts sweeter than I would like because people are used to commercial sweets and chocolate bars.. http://health.howstuffworks.com/wellness/food-nutrition/facts/are-processed-foods-killing-our-taste-buds.htm

Michael Pollan on cooking.. Shifting his focus from the food system and agriculture, his message now is to cook.  He says it so well, always so smart and straight up and positive, I love him. If only more people would listen! http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/04/17/pollan-cooks/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto

James McGuire on the baguette – always instructive, and a reminder about good bread, not to be taken for granted..  http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/fashion-beauty/Montreal+baker+James+MacGuire+anatomy+baguette/8229257/story.html

Wild turkey experiment in Ontario positive  http://www.theobserver.ca/2013/04/11/wild-turkeys-successfully-reintroduced-in-ontario

 Montreal Food Trucks a go

English http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/montreal/story/2013/04/09/montreal-food-truck-pilot-project.html

French http://www.lapresse.ca/actualites/regional/montreal/201304/09/01-4639133-montreal-la-bouffe-de-rue-aura-pignon-sur-rue.php

Terroir TO – the Cdn foodie event of the year, a synopsis http://www.torontolife.com/daily-dish/food-events/2013/04/09/terroir-2013-recap/

Mosanto an overview of badness - Even if you already hate them, you should hate them even more http://gmo-awareness.com/2011/05/12/monsanto-dirty-dozen/

About Russ Kremer, ‘The Pope of Pork’ and raising pigs the proper way  All Barry Estabrook’s articles are worth reading.  http://www.onearth.org/article/meet-the-farmer-selling-chipotle-antibiotic-free-pork

Where to Eat in NYC right now Things change fast, neat to check in once and a while for what it’s worth.. http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/04/the_manhattan_heatmap_where_to_eat_right_now_1.php

Montreal Restaurants open on Sunday and/or Monday A newly discovered gem http://willtravelforfood.com/2012/04/09/restaurants-montreal-open-sunday-monday-nights/

Seaweeds, the benefits http://www.care2.com/greenliving/5-seaweeds-that-enrich-your-diet.html

Mtl Street food is coming, But..  It was looking good, but now it seems that beurocracy is taking over. Food trucks that can’t move? Why will it take until 2005 to figure it out? www.lapresse.ca/actualites/regional/montreal/201303/31/01-4636370-oui-a-la-bouffe-de-rue-a-montreal-mais.ph

A dietitian examines the Paleo diet blog.fooducate.com/2013/03/26/did-cavemen-have-it-right-my-take-on-the-paleo-diet/  This pretty much sums it up for me.

Bits and Bites March 2013

A film about Michel Bras and son restaurant, haute cuisine in France http://www.cinemaguild.com/stepuptotheplate/

And a film about hunger in the U.S.A., A Place at the table  http://www.culinate.com/articles/sift/a_place_at_the_table

Montreal chefs with Lesley Chesterman discuss currant restaurant issues http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Restaurant+unrest+Lesley+Chesterman+takes+look+changes/8167182/story.html

Quebecoise Veronique Rivest wins second place in world wide sommelier competition  http://communiques.gouv.qc.ca/gouvqc/communiques/GPQF/Mars2013/29/c9479.html

On the corn system, the omni-present monoculture that rules the world and affects us all – it’s important to be aware how out of whack, unsustainable and expensive it is, how it needs be revamped through policy and consumer demand http://ensia.com/voices/its-time-to-rethink-americas-corn-system/?viewAll=1

More evidence that antibiotics in animals are transferred to humans http://www.nytimes.com/2013/03/28/us/study-shows-bacteria-moves-from-animals-to-humans.html

"Respect nature by leaving it alone?" No, "we learn respect through the great responsibility of using" via Dylan a KnowWildFood http://j.mp/YdgLbb   and living in sync. Similarly, I woke up to nature and all kinds of life cycles when I moved to the country only cooking local & wild. My early blog posts circa 2006 resonate with this.  And its still, a constant marvel..

Alice Waters on rebuilding Chez Panisse post fire – looks like a happy ending http://eater.com/archives/2013/03/27/alice-waters-on-the-silver-linings-of-rebuilding-after-the-chez-panisse-fire.php

Behind the junk/processed food industry – a team of marketing people and scientists working to addict the consumer.. Don’t know about Lunchables, but the same type of thing has been going on here.  Nothing new, but a good read, and reminder of how our society’s eating habits have slowly gotten AFU..  http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/24/magazine/the-extraordinary-science-of-junk-food.html?

Most people don’t need to be afraid of gluten, but by all means avoid cake and cookies (refined flours, sugar and bad fat) and cut down on bread, pasta with respect to fruit, veg and good protein/fat http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=most-people-shouldnt-eat-gluten-free

Food poisoning at Noma – yes, it can happen at the best restaurants even those who are more careful about quality than anyone and have preventative systems in place - a restaurateur’s worst nightmare. Happens everyday all the time and you don’t hear about it; in this case, it made a spectacular headline although it was hardly scandalous. I sympathize. http://world.time.com/2013/03/10/when-the-worlds-top-restaurant-serves-up-a-bug/

Cracking down on sodas with size – why it’s a good idea  I say let people have their cake and soda too, but it’s ok that bad things are underlined as such, frowned upon and so heavily taxed like cigarettes http://www.foodpolitics.com/2013/03/daily-news-op-ed-bloombergs-soda-ban-should-be-only-the-beginning/

Food writing to tuck into – such a great list  I’ve read many/most of these, all good reading. This is my favourite kind of book no doubt; I rarely pick up a cookbook these days, more often a fiction novel or something on medicinal plants. But nothing beats good food writing. Top notch is old school MFK Fisher, James Beard, Jacques Pepin or Ruth Reichl and Jeffrey Steingarden.  Michael Ruhlman’s books were good too for a certain time, ‘the soul of a chef and etc’..  I also enjoyed The Perfectionist, and from the more recent batch:  Heat, Frank Bruni’s Born Round,  Blood, bones and butter, and Marcus Samuelson’s bio. Then there is all the fabulous foodwriting more focused on issues and food stories than egos – by Michael Pollan, Singer, Taras Grescoe, Rowan Jacobson, Sarah Elton.. That merits another list. http://www.abebooks.com/books/features/food-memoirs.shtml?cm_mmc=nl-_-nl-_-C130113-h00-memoirAM-131214TG-_-01cta&abersp=1

Thursday wine tastings at Toque 65$ for a series of bouchées with wines from a visiting producer http://www.restaurant-toque.com/fr/Evenements.php

NYC hot new restaurants - Not that there isn’t enough to check out in Mtl

http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/03/the_manhattan_heatmap_where_to_eat_right_now.php

Then there’s Carbone, the Torissi team’s new ritzier spot http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/03/carbone_the_torrisi_teams_ritzy_new_italian_restaurant.php

And the Brooklyn scene http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/03/the_brooklyn_heatmap_where_to_eat_right_now_3.php

A fine-dining comeback, Ruth Reichl predicts

http://www.latimes.com/features/food/dailydish/la-dd-fine-dining-comeback-20130306,0,1346327.story

Blackstrap BBQ – a must try smokehouse in Verdun with brisket, chicken & ribs, all the classic sides with a twist http://voir.ca/voir-la-vie/gastronomie/restos/2013/02/21/blackstrap-bbq/

Bilan resumé de Montreal en Lumière 2013 avec Katherine Lune http://www.katerinerollet.com/en-vedette/bilan-et-resume-de-la-14-edition-de-montreal-en-lumiere/

Bits and Bites Feb 2013

The Horsemeat Ikea scandal, Mark Bittman comments - right on!  Its not horse persay that is worrisome but the way alot of our food is produced and processed in the industrial system.  Better to eat a horse steak from a good source than meatballs from a furniture store! http://www.theworld.org/2013/02/horsemeat-scandal-hits-furniture-giant-ikea/

Tripes & Caviar – a creative hipster pop-up turned resto in Verdun, apparently a welcome addition to the Mtl dining scene http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Critic+Notebook+Tripes+Caviar/8036284/story.html

Sugar is toxic: ‘It’s the sugar, folks’ http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/02/27/its-the-sugar-folks/?smid=tw-bittman&seid=auto

New York Foraged Food Restos – Wow, if all it takes is lichen or pine needles on your menu to qualify as authentic, maybe I should start rethinking how to describe Les Jardins Sauvages with conservatively >100 varieties of plants & mushrooms that we sell fresh, cook on our menu and process into an array of preserves. Without lichen or pine needles. I need to find a superlative or new term for 'lots of truly local and wild, sustainably foraged food'!? http://newyork.grubstreet.com/2013/02/new-york-restaurants-foraged-food.html

Granola goes upscale
http://www.nytimes.com/2013/02/20..

Urban agriculture in Tokyo office buildings http://www.thecultureist.com/2013/02/18/urban-hydroponics-tokyo-office-buildings/

Hotel Herman and Montreal Cuisine, an article by Adam Gollner  I haven't tried this restaurant but I'm all for local and 'feminine', as in soigné, moderate portions vegetables as present as meat and fat, not that this is new for Montreal http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/montreal-cuisine-lightens-up-but-can-we-still-get-foie-gras-poutine/article8824817/

Chefs’ dream destinations (in French)

http://www.lapresse.ca/voyage/nouvelles/201302/18/01-4622645-les-destinations-de-reve-des-chefs.php

Ten important chefs http://www.dailymail.co.uk/home/moslive/article-2011767/Marco-Pierre-White-Heston-Blumenthal-The-greatest-chefs-Raymond-Blanc.html

Bocuse d’Or Culinary Olympics: France first, Denmark  2^nd, Japan 3^rd, Canada 9^th http://www.goodfoodrevolution.com/bocuse-dor/ 

Jian Bing – a kind of N. Chinese egg-crepe ‘sandwich’ – looks good! http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Sandwich+Club+Jian+bing+popular+import+from+China/7953751/story.html

Food & drink inspired by Chanel#5 As I get into making cosmetics with coco butter, almond oil, lemon balm lavender cayenne and etc. I do love the idea of going back and forth between these parallel universes in terms of knowledge and inspiration.  But I like to keep them separate too, I love lavender on one side not as much on the other – citrus, coriander and anise go both ways.  http://www.tv5.org/cms/chaine-francophone/programmes/p-80-s2-z73-lg0-PAPILLES.htm?prg_id=476493&

Hottest NYC restaurants  Can hardly keep up in Montreal, forget about New York  http://ny.eater.com/archives/2013/02/eater_heat_map_3.php

Food movies for a winter night - most oldies now, loved them all http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/restaurants/feast+foodie+movies+some+actually+make/7906995/story.html

Lefse – interesting!  Kind of like gnocchi prep but cooked like pancakes, kind of like roesti or latkes then, but not quite.  Every country and culture has a variation on so many basic things the same but different, be it flatbread, mirepoix, custard, meat stew, ketchup..  I love that!

Bits and Bites Jan 2013

3 Sweet/Pastry shops to try in Montreal  http://fr.chatelaine.com/cuisine/gastronomie-cuisine/3-patissieres-dici/

5 Places to Eat in Little Italy via mayssamaha  http://www.tourisme-montreal.org/blog/where-to-eat/5-places-to-eat-in-little-italy/

Sans gluten et le danger des faux allergies – bien dit! http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/25/01-4614933-le-vrai-et-surtout-le-faux-sur-le-gluten.php

Quinoa, the back story – important to think about where all your food comes from, not just meat say http://www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2013/jan/16/vegans-stomach-unpalatable-truth-quinoa

Tendances Culinaires selon 8 chefs de Mtl  www.casatv.ca/a-table/tendances-culinaires-2013-selon-8-chefs/

Think about it! Food waste is astronomical and nonsensical.. There have been many articles about this recently, I chose this one.  So, Yes we all have to waste less in the home and restaurant; and yes more importantly, we need to change the industrial food system, which operates askew creating lots of mal-distributed cheap food that sits in the field or ends up in the supermarket bin.  I think that comes down to forgetting about abundant cheap (and pretty) food, more about valuing food, following the seasons, staying close to home.  If you grow your own or buy local from a small producer and get what you get given what is harvested - taking big/small/oblong, you will be less inclined to waste, you put up.  With a direct link between producer and consumer, things don’t get so screwed up..  Food shouldn’t be a commodity, controlled by corporations or the stock market.. Developing countries would be better off concentrating on feeding themselves as opposed to participating in a global economy that just nails them in the end so that Westerners can have cheap food to throw out. www.guardian.co.uk/environment/2013/jan/10/half-world-food-waste

Dommage que ‘le foodie culture’ n’inspire pas plus; c’est vrai que c’est plus important de cuisiner point! simplement mais pour vrai, sans nécessairement savoir c’est quoi une mandoline ou une truffe http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/09/01-4609545-cuisiner-sur-terre.php

A new chapter in Montreal and ‘Canadian cuisine’ – in any case, a well written article by Adam Gollner  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/food-trends/wheres-some-of-the-best-qubcois-food-in-montreal-you-might-be-surprised/article7044220/

To try: Gluten free gnocchi
blog.ideasinfood.com/ideas_in_food/2013/01/janauary-3-2012.html

The ten hottest restaurants ‘in the world’ now http://blog.zagat.com/2013/01/the-10-hottest-restaurants-in-world.html#.UOVXC-vcacg.twitter

Important Foodie reading – the big stuff people in the food world aren’t talking about  I love the spirit of this post, I think a lot of it rings true..  I don’t agree with some of the 20 things, but yes enough with the celebrity chefs when most of your meals are cooked by illegal immigrants; yes the food world has been hijacked by the media, clubs and charlatans; yes we need to rethink the tipping system; and yes nostalgia props up a lot of bad food.  Not sure about foie gras or if I’m willing to say all wine tastes the same, but it doesn’t need to be so complicated either, like sustainable/good food doesn’t have to be a white/upper class thing. http://firstwefeast.com/eat/20-things-everyone-thinks-about-the-food-world-but-nobody-will-say/s/29176/

Food trends for 2013  http://www.nytimes.com/2013/01/02/dining/after-crispy-pig-ears-10-trends-for-2013.html?ref=dining&_r=2&

A call for renewed resolve (and patience) to fix our food problem  http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/01/01/fixing-our-food-problem

The history of peanut butter http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/books/2012/11/a-chunky-history-of-peanut-butter.html

Les tables et quartiers Mtl  - Montreal restaurant scene alive more and more in a neighbourhood nearyou http://www.lapresse.ca/debats/chroniques/marie-claude-lortie/201301/02/01-4607906-les-tables-et-leurs-quartiers.php

Bits and Bites December 2012

Veronique Rivest – sommelière de Québec, meilleure des Amériques http://www.larvf.com/,veronique-rivest-meilleure-sommeliere-des-ameriques,10337,4267356.asp

‘Dietary Seatbelts’ perhaps necessary because policy as is only “helps big producers make as much money as they can regardless of the consequences.” to our health, environment, society.. http://opinionator.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/12/18/dietary-seat-belts/?ref=markbittman

Cookbook pics by both the French and English Mtl food book store owners http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/Cookbook+store+owners+choose+their+favourites/7584300/story.html

Maple syrup thiefs http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/montreal/story/2012/12/18/quebec-theft-maple-syrup-court.html

My garden includes weeds.  Don’t understand why you wouldn’t want a somewhat natural landscape.. http://www.newjerseynewsroom.com/state/lawn-or-meadow-it-takes-a-jersey-judge-to-reaffirm-that-one-mans-weed-is-another-mans-wildflower

Top Montreal Restaurants for 2012 selon Lesley Chesterman http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Fine+Dining+Lesley+Chesterman+restaurants+2012/7702501/story.html?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter

Escargot Caviar  Without having tasted it, don’t know if it’s more hype and trendy due to rarity and expense or just really good.. http://www.starchefs.com/cook/savory/product/escargot-caviar

Achats responsible http://www.recyc-quebec.gouv.qc.ca/client/fr/rubriques/liens.asp?idTypeLib=60 (move)

A Montreal ‘Best of’ list for 2012 by J.P. Tastet– restaurants and books.. http://mixeur.tv/actualite/best-of-2012

Now, Forager, a poor review of a what seems to be a potentially very interesting movie featuring wild mushrooms, promoting Slow Food http://www.eyeforfilm.co.uk/review/now-forager-2012-film-review-by-neil-mitchell

Montréal en Lumière 2013 : Feb.21st to March 3rd - Buenos Aires, Philly and Lac St-Jean http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Montr%C3%A9al+Lumi%C3%A8re+2013+Welcome+Buenos+Aires/7682735/story.html

Programmation: http://www.montrealenlumiere.com/gastronomie/activites-jour.aspx

France still la reference?  Or losing its bearings as the rest of the world catches up to the old France.. A case of the student surpassing the teacher or just normalization with globalization - they become more like us and us more like them.  Whether there is a steeper curve of creativity/evolution or not, not sure about better value here being something to covet, at what cost.. The truth is we should be charging more here for better (non-industrial) food grown and prepared by (better paid) farmers and cooks. http://www.france-amerique.com/articles/2012/12/05/le_declin_conteste_de_la_cuisine_francaise.html

Love this art! A tribute to cooks behind the scene - artist Quang-Ho http://recettesbonetblanc.com/lart-culinaire/

Saving oysters.. Yes please!  What I thought was one of our last yummy sustainable choices. Hope this doesn’t hit the Atlantic and my preferred east coast oysters, but that would be wishful thinking.. http://civileats.com/2012/12/03/troubled-waters-farmers-and-scientists-work-together-to-save-oysters/#more-15884

Chef plagiarism – tricky to pinpoint; everyone’s constantly influenced by everyone before them and around, the zeitgeist.. Directly copying is another story.  For sure, the new world with internet makes it even more complicated, as well as easier to copy.  I remember a time when ideas and references were less accessible - you had to work hard to tap into what others were doing, techniques weren’t spelled out, you were forced to source from within or be a product of your strict surroundings.  Regardless, I don’t understand a chef who needs to copy!  There is inspiration everywhere yes, but you have to have a lot inside - drive and ideas and everything else to make it in this métier, so by the  time you’re making menus, normally you have something real and personal going on, of course built partly on all those influences, the main ones you should be able to note, never shy to note a new one. http://eater.com/archives/2012/12/03/attributing-sources.php

Black Ivory coffee made from elephant dung – the priciest/hottest coffee now after the weasel dung one.. Whatever.  http://www.nbcnews.com/travel/itineraries/elephant-dung-coffee-exotic-brew-50-pop-1C7490082

Femmes engagées à nourrir le Québec : a new book out (more historical than cookbook) that honours all kinds of women and their work in the Que food realm, including me ?! http://www.katerinerollet.com/medias/femmes-engagees-a-nourrir-le-quebec/

Bits & Bites November 2012

Beloved Bubbles - A list to work through over the holiday season, ha..   www.montrealgazette.com/life/2012+bubbly+guidefor+those+special+moments/7621387/story.html

Munchies - Dave McMillan hits a few of his favourite Mtl spots, fun little video, love that Honey Martins is on the agenda http://www.vice.com/en_ca/munchies/munchies-joe-beef

About refrigeration and how it has changed our food http://www.cabinetmagazine.org/issues/47/twilley.php

Cookbook picks for 2012 (Rulman)  http://ruhlman.com/2012/11/cookbook-picks-for-2012/

Foodie activity in Ahuntsic to accompany the fab St-Urbain..
http://www.katerinerollet.com/restaurants/resume-des-tuyaux-bouffe-de-la-rue-fleury-ouest/

Pastaga Canadian Monday events starting Dec. 3^rd with Marc Lépine (Atelier, Ottawa) as guest chef http://willtravelforfood.com/category/montreal-restaurants-events/restaurant-reviews-montreal/

Industrial meat and feedlots bad, we know.. What it does to the workers, communities, the environment, but still people keep buying the shit because it’s cheap.  Which means we will keep reading more dumb articles like this in hopes that they will make the smallest difference.  Eat/Buy less meat all-round, yes!  But a smaller quantity of better meat is another thing entirely. I wish they would all stop equating industrial meat with real meat raised from small producers who take care, mixing the issues.. http://www.newint.org/blog/2012/11/20/factory-farms-are-new-sweatshops/

« La vie ne peut devenir la propriété d’entreprises » Vandana Shiva est physicienne et docteur en philosophie. Pour lutter contre la privatisation des semences agricoles, pour la liberté et la dignité des paysans elle a fondée l’association Navdanya. So crazy that it takes a fight to share seeds and grow vegetables, to control what we eat..  http://kaizen-magazine.com/vandana-shiva/ (in French)

Slow Food - what it’s really about, and how it is and can make a difference.  Inspiring, and empowering whether you’re starting to care about your food and the global system, or you’re a desperate, disillusioned diehard like me. This gives me hope and makes me want to do more, all over again.. Please read. http://www.thehindu.com/arts/magazine/eat-pray-love/article4076820.ece

Interview with Ruch Reichl about her food writing heros..  I always love what she has to say, striking chords without fail, usually learn something new too.. http://www.salon.com/2012/11/19/weve_become_a_food_culture/

Pork this way just does not make sense; major overhaul in order.  I want to support local producers but they are all industrial and care more about big buyers or export, which is why I rarely have pork on my menu.  When I do, it is Gaspor.  Or at least Porc Meilleur, for our cooked products or charcturie.. http://affaires.lapresse.ca/economie/quebec/201211/15/01-4594007-la-production-porcine-est-en-crise.php

Raymond Blanc forced to take liver off his menu..  Apparently, there are overzealous and misguided food inspectors across the pond too!  All to make people more afraid of food, and the wrong food to boot..  I'd rather take my chances with pink 'real' meat from a respectable restaurant than with the ubiquitous sterile, industrial pseudo food the inspectors don't mind that is slowly making everyone sick. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2012/nov/13/raymond-blanc-lambs-liver-food-poisoning

Guy Fieri’s takedown review – what happens when you’re all over the place and opening restaurants - like all it takes is a name, tatoos and some lingo www.nytimes.com/2012/11/14/dining/reviews/restaurant-review-guys-american-kitchen-bar-in-times-square.html

Darren Bergeron takes the Gold Medal plates for Québec, Canada finals in February. http://www.montrealgazette.com/life/food-wine/Eight+Montreal+chefs+battle+Gold+Medal+Plates/7541584/story.html

The Fruit Hunters – in theatres November 23rd newyork.grubstreet.com/2012/11/the-fruit-hunters-trailer-bill-pullman.html

Wine for Mushrooms  It seems like this writer has truffle in mind, but most wild mushrooms have enough character to match these wines, especially if served with meat.  I cook a lot of wild mushrooms however and find that with my style of cooking, a softer red usually works best, ie. not too astringent, medium bodied, with fruit to complement the earthiness..  http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/wine/10-red-wines-that-are-magic-with-mushrooms/article5039832/

Fondue and tabletop communal cooking trending??  Not against the return of fondue (not that it ever left the home in Que), and check out Heston’s recipe – to me it seems spot on, including the pickles as an accompaniment.. http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2012/nov/09/double-dip-return-of-the-fondue

Silk soymilk – another food monopoly; consolidation like in the dairy, beef and poultry industries not good for farmers, food quality or the environment..  Nor for anyone except these big companies! http://grist.org/food/smooth-as-silk-how-big-brands-milk-small-farmers-for-all-theyre-worth/

Taste Canada Food Writing Award Winners for 2012

http://tastecanada.org/awards/2012-winners/

Stuffing, Dressing whatever, we love it, a worthy side dish.  Personally, I’m into the classic thing with bread and celery and sage, can’t help it.  After so many years of doing everything else.. http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/07/dining/stuffing-deserves-more-days-on-the-table.html

SAT Food Lab turns one, looking back and ahead..  No doubt, a definite Montreal destination, so fresh and innovative and real, ashamed I haven’t been yet..  I feel for this project in any case, in that I know what its like to put elaborate menus out of a rustic/low budget kitchen with big spirit following a theme in flux..  http://www.endlessbanquet.blogspot.ca/2012/11/babys-turning-one.html?m=1

Le meilleur bio et hommage à Normand Laprise parmi autant depuis son lancement de livre http://www.lapresse.ca/vivre/cuisine/201211/02/01-4589615-normand-laprise-le-grand-artisan.php

Sugar everywhere, beware.  Added sugar is big business, no wonder the ‘innocuous’ hidden villain took over while everyone was worried about fat..  But really, like with everything, if you eat and cook real food, you don’t need to worry about adding a little sugar, or even better, honey or maple syrup here and there.. http://www.foodpolitics.com/2012/11/mother-jones-how-the-industry-minimized-and-minimizes-the-health-effects-of-sugars/